We researched and looked at so many jacks and then settled on what looked like the best one for the money, a Ram. It looked really nice but then we slid it into position and there is no way we can open the tail gate with it. It does not move or swivel any way, its simply to big and no adjusting will make it work. I've seen others with this problem and thought we chose wisely, but we didnt. Totally bummed!

I have the same problem with the one that came on my TT. You can get a longer shank for your weight distributing hitch but they are around $100.00.

luvmydogs wrote:We researched and looked at so many jacks and then settled on what looked like the best one for the money, a Ram. It looked really nice but then we slid it into position and there is no way we can open the tail gate with it. It does not move or swivel any way, its simply to big and no adjusting will make it work. I've seen others with this problem and thought we chose wisely, but we didnt. Totally bummed!Did I not suggest in your other thread that you seriously consider an electric tongue jack on which the head can be rotated, even mentioning the UltraFab 3002 which does allow this? Yeah, I know a few respondents mocked the advantage of being able to rotate the head but it really can be an advantage when the TV tailgate hits the tongue jack head.

Understand. We switched ours from a manual to an electric shortly after we purchased our Outback. We let our dealer recommend the best for us (which is OK, sometimes it's just easier to let someone else make a decision for you). The jack works great! Not a hint of problem. But you are right, the tailgate of the truck does not open all the way when hitched. I've learned to accept this and just watch the tail gate carefully when opening now so I've adapted. I've thought about building some kind of block or wedge to put between the tongue of the trailer and the open tail gate to keep it from falling completely back. The tail gait would not open flat that way, but at least it wouldn't hit the jack. There's a possibility I might be able to shorten the two steel cables that attach to the truck to the end of the tail gate on both sides, but would need a fast and easy way to switch them back for use when not trailering.Meanwhile I'll just live with it and watch it when opening the gate.I have heard of others having the same problem. One solution is to get a longer receiver jack shaft that slides into the receiver hitch. That would put a longer distance (even an inch could make a big difference). But I've not explored that idea yet. Sounds like it might work though.

Why is it impossible to rotate the jack? It may not cure your problem with the tailgate but I'm curious. Is it because the mounting hole don't line up?

I just live with it as well. The newer trucks seem to have taller beds which translates into a longer horizontal distance when the tailgates are opened. I can open my gate enough to access the latch for my bed cover so I can get to stuff if needed. At first I was a bit bummed but it's really not that big of deal with the way I use my truck.

Totally bummed with Electric Jack | Good Sam Community

SoundGuy
Explorer
Apr 15, 2015
2manytoyz wrote:
Had the same problem with our travel trailer. The tall tailgate on a newer F150 hits the jack.

SoundGuy wrote:
Looks like an UltraFab 3502 on which the head is reversible 180 degrees ... it's a bit difficult to tell from your pics but would we assume you tried that first and found that doing so still wouldn't provide enough clearance for the tailgate to swing fully down? :@

2manytoyz wrote:
That would have been too easy! I had hoped that would work, but still too close.

Ya'd think trailer manufacturer's would consider these minor details. It's not like I'm driving an uncommon vehicle.

Thanks for the reply. In my case, when I switched from a Silverado to an Avalanche which had a taller cargo compartment and therefore a taller tailgate reversing the tongue jack head did provide enough clearance for me to drop the tailgate fully. I guess it all depends on the particulars of both the trailer and TV involved.
2manytoyz
Explorer
Apr 15, 2015
SoundGuy wrote:
2manytoyz wrote:
Had the same problem with our travel trailer. The tall tailgate on a newer F150 hits the jack.

Looks like an UltraFab 3502 on which the head is reversible 180 degrees ... it's a bit difficult to tell from your pics but would we assume you tried that first and found that doing so still wouldn't provide enough clearance for the tailgate to swing fully down? :@

That would have been too easy! I had hoped that would work, but still too close.

Ya'd think trailer manufacturer's would consider these minor details. It's not like I'm driving an uncommon vehicle.
SoundGuy
Explorer
Apr 14, 2015
2manytoyz wrote:
Had the same problem with our travel trailer. The tall tailgate on a newer F150 hits the jack.

Looks like an UltraFab 3502 on which the head is reversible 180 degrees ... it's a bit difficult to tell from your pics but would we assume you tried that first and found that doing so still wouldn't provide enough clearance for the tailgate to swing fully down? :@
BurbMan
Explorer II
Apr 14, 2015
Toyz, very creative solution!
2manytoyz
Explorer
Apr 14, 2015
Had the same problem with our travel trailer. The tall tailgate on a newer F150 hits the jack.

My solution was to move the battery box over, and move the tongue jack further back.

I did add more welds to this place that originally had a few tack welds.

A pick before the tanks/cover we installed:

The most difficult part was making a hole in the steel plate to accommodate the jack. I borrowed a hole punch, and had to use an impact wrench to slice through the material:

My hope was to be able to haul a golf cart with us without having to remove the tailgate. Unfortunately, it would still contact the tanks in a sharp turn, even with the tailgate raised partially.

So it's a good news/bad news story.

As long as we aren't turned sharply, we can drop the tailgate while hitched.

The downside is the tailgate must be removed anyway when taking the golf cart. We don't often take the GC, and removing the tailgate isn't difficult.
TurnThePage
Explorer
Mar 31, 2015
Bucky Badger wrote:
BillyW wrote:
Another poster already mentioned the jack-e-up as a possible solution. It sounds like a great solution to me. Have you looked into it?

Not the op but I thought about it once. but while in transit you probably have to remove the jack. From the video, jack doesn't look secure unless it's on the ground
You're right, it doesn't look like it would be very secure while towing. I personally would have no problem removing it whenever hitched up.
GaryWT
Explorer
Mar 31, 2015
luvmydogs wrote:
Gary in the back of the suv with ALL seats folded down go 4 large crates that take up the whole area behind the front seats to the back tailgate.2 cats go in 2 crates (they dont go out) and the dogs go in the back. If we only drove at a few hour increments we would still have to unload the cats to get the dogs out, more than a few hours and my dogs need to go out. Not being able to use the back tailgate for the convienance of the electric jack is a no brainer to me. Jack or back tailgate? Tailgate wins by a landslide. My animals need to be able to get out of the suv much more often then when the trailer is not attached.

That sounds like a full load you have. Can the jack be returned? I can understand the need to return to hand cranking, as must of a pain that is, it is the lesser of two evils. Good luck.
YamaDooed
Explorer
Mar 31, 2015
chr$ wrote:
I'm looking at getting a Barker, and I noticed they make a Tall one. Has anyone tried this taller one to solve the problem? I don't want to lose the LPG tank cover, and my tanks are already inched forwards a bit to clear my secure battery box...

So much going on in that little triangle of space...

Had same issue with the manual handle and with the Barker 24" there's no need to rotate the head and it clears the 30 lb propane cover iffen you need to manual crank it...
chr_
Explorer
Mar 31, 2015
My Sport Trac Tailgate hits the crank on the manual jack, but at least it sorta holds it. If I twirl it up, it clears the jack post, and conversely, also makes a nice "Center of trailer here" indicator when hitching up if I put it straight up. I can see it over the bed cover.:)

I'm looking at getting a Barker, and I noticed they make a Tall one. Has anyone tried this taller one to solve the problem? I don't want to lose the LPG tank cover, and my tanks are already inched forwards a bit to clear my secure battery box...

So much going on in that little triangle of space...
Huntindog
Explorer
Mar 31, 2015
mich800 wrote:
Huntindog wrote:
Can you open it with the manual jack installed?
If so, then the Atwood will work.

I agree. Having something like tis is a PITA that one shouldn't have to endure.
A longer drawbar will work, but will lokely cost close to what a new jack will, and I am not sure I would recommend it for a SUV, which likely has a short wheelbase. It could possible have a negative impact on the towing experience.

Is the Atwood shorter. Because this is a SUV I suspect the only relief they will get is with a longer draw bar or shorter height.

Good point. Though I would think that a manual jack would have the same issue. They are not exactly short.

Perhaps the OP can tell us just what the clearance problem is.

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