Towing with a 2016 GMC Yukon Denali
Hi all! I'm a newbie here and to towing. But I bought my family the above vehicle so we could get travel trailer. I see there is alot to how to pick the weight I can pull and handle for TW, etc. I don...
Forum Discussion
Are you, the OP, really on Guam the island ? If so, then ask if there are any freeways where you’d be running at freeway speeds ?
Just a few comments to look out for and take note of
Towing is comprised of components, sub systems and systems. Each have their own ratings and that they all work together...none are stand-alone....plus each rating has fine print that qualifies each rating...think a CYA, as the OEM can never design whatever to handle everything/every-situation/etc
Take the OEM published 8,100 lb MTW (Max Tow Weight Rating)...there is/are fine print below that chart or a reference symbol pointing to fine print somewhere that sets the conditions for the vehicle to be rated to tow that 8,100 lbs
It is a ditto for the other ratings
It is also not an absolute...meaning that if it worked or didn’t work for someone...will it absolutely work or not for everyone out there
Since this OP doesn’t want to weigh...then it’s going to be a guessing game and the why many recommend getting a higher class TV...more margin, but they too can be over their ratings
I’ll not say sure you can stuff...just the metrics of HOW2 figure it out your self
Will say that your goal is to have enough tongue weight (min of 12% actual tongue weight...or more), that the trailer should be level or pointed down slightly, that the TV is weighted as per the TV’s manual recommendation (some deal with weighting of the front axle...others return to unweighted front axle to fender height, etc)
As for the WD Hitch System...you will have to guess on what size/rating of the WD bars/truniun/etc and how much they need to be tensioned. Even the hitch head size, they have weight ratings too
Finally, the trailer brake controller...best advice is to know that if the trailer starts to sway...manually initiate the controller and DO NOT step on the TV brakes...but...keep your foot on the throttle to pull the whole setup straight...then slow down...
Of course, the tires should be aired properly and other stuff up to snuff
It isn’t hard, just data gathering, actually weighing and then simple math...or go down the hard knocks schooling...
After once it is dialed in...you won’t need to go through this cycle again, unless you change something
Marty is spot on and note that there are performance specifications all OEMs have to meet during their certification testing to meet government agency requirements
Just a few comments to look out for and take note of
Towing is comprised of components, sub systems and systems. Each have their own ratings and that they all work together...none are stand-alone....plus each rating has fine print that qualifies each rating...think a CYA, as the OEM can never design whatever to handle everything/every-situation/etc
Take the OEM published 8,100 lb MTW (Max Tow Weight Rating)...there is/are fine print below that chart or a reference symbol pointing to fine print somewhere that sets the conditions for the vehicle to be rated to tow that 8,100 lbs
It is a ditto for the other ratings
It is also not an absolute...meaning that if it worked or didn’t work for someone...will it absolutely work or not for everyone out there
Since this OP doesn’t want to weigh...then it’s going to be a guessing game and the why many recommend getting a higher class TV...more margin, but they too can be over their ratings
I’ll not say sure you can stuff...just the metrics of HOW2 figure it out your self
Will say that your goal is to have enough tongue weight (min of 12% actual tongue weight...or more), that the trailer should be level or pointed down slightly, that the TV is weighted as per the TV’s manual recommendation (some deal with weighting of the front axle...others return to unweighted front axle to fender height, etc)
As for the WD Hitch System...you will have to guess on what size/rating of the WD bars/truniun/etc and how much they need to be tensioned. Even the hitch head size, they have weight ratings too
Finally, the trailer brake controller...best advice is to know that if the trailer starts to sway...manually initiate the controller and DO NOT step on the TV brakes...but...keep your foot on the throttle to pull the whole setup straight...then slow down...
Of course, the tires should be aired properly and other stuff up to snuff
It isn’t hard, just data gathering, actually weighing and then simple math...or go down the hard knocks schooling...
After once it is dialed in...you won’t need to go through this cycle again, unless you change something
Marty is spot on and note that there are performance specifications all OEMs have to meet during their certification testing to meet government agency requirements
