Towing with a 2016 GMC Yukon Denali

Lord Tunderin'. Ok thanks for the input guys. So maybe I do have to go down the rabbit hole. And its like a weakest link in the chain scenario and from what I've read here and in a couple other threads the weakest link is likely the down force on the hitch. And yes your right I do not want to learn the hard way while going through the mountains with my family. But I do know my brother (who is almost as ignorant as I am about this) pulls his maybe 20% heavier TT through the mountains with just a WD hitch plus anti sway in an older model Yukon and so far all good. But I better learn this properly. So I should I go to another link and read up or should we get me set up properly here?
*No I'm not in Guam but I dont like all the info they want from me just to join a forum!

And after re-reading your post handye9 I see there is alot of valuable and pertinent info there. So maybe payload is the other weak link along with weight hitch right?
I will check the door jam for info and get a pic of the hitch and post it here.
And also I'm surprised my Denali 6.2l V8 monster can pull less than the the models with a smaller motor. Is that more to do with magnetic ride suspension? Cuz obviously it has a more powerful engine but has the lower tow limit by GMC.

Thanks also Marty. Good points.

And ok I'll weigh it. How do I do all the measurements please? And I've no TT or WD yet.

You are a newbie "car" person. Nothing wrong, just don't know/understand "DUTY-CYCLE"

Maybe this analogy...

The stuff you mention (monster engine) is all car with a smaller duty-cycle rating. Think of a 100 meter dash/sprint. 100% power for a few seconds


Now think of a 10K and if you ran it like you would a 100 meter...you'd most likely get dizzy, barf, fall over and pass out way before getting 1/4 of that 10K. So have to reduce power to conserve by pacing yourself for the hours it would take

Instead of getting dizzy, barfing, falling over and passing out...things on the vehicle will overheat and melt. With today's computer controlled everything...it would reduce power and even go into limp mode protecting itself

Forgot this...

Made the assumption that the OP's truck has the tow option

If not, then his stated MTWR isn't...as the fine print will state that the tow option(s) are a must...plus whatever else is spelled out in the fine print...

And that his truck hasn't been modified.

Like lifted, as most lift kit's change the U-Joint Z angles...therefore reduces their ratings

Etc...

The brain trust has already twisted this around.....go figure.

One guy talking about max grades and no turbo, blah blah blah. Enough already. Guy has about the most powerful gasser you can buy. And he won't be wondering what the stall grade of his overall gearing and torque converter efficiency is 21% or 31% slope.
Nother guy is talking about reducing towing capacity based on subtracting cargo weight from tow cap as if the family is sitting in the trailer while it's going down the road...
And now the 4500lb dry weight the OP asked SPECIFiCALLY about is now magically a max trailer rating load of 8100lbs or whatever it was in another post
Good grief. New, capable, high $, quality, safe, powerful, SUV pulling a trailer that is (loaded up ready to camp) still 2500lbs below the max tow rating. Hook the trailer up and go camping! Have fun, send pictures, Bon voyage!

Oh, and someone is going to barf and pass out, becasue the engine is down on power at altitude....
OMG, how do the boys in Colorado even make it out of bed in the morning, much lass tow their camper to the National Forest??

Ave loaded weight is probably not 800-1000 lbs. Another moderator bought a new trailer some 10 years ago, figured he would put 70-800 lbs in his trailer for the two of them.....lolol......he weighed EVERYTHING as it was loaded, came in at closer to 1200 lbs iirc. My family of 6, loaded closer to 2000-2500 depending upon the length of trip, if it was a ski trip for the weekend, yes that is a SNOW ski trip to the local ski area for the weekend, including full water tank, 6-8 sets of skis, boots, clothes etc.
Reality is, weight in the trailer will vary based on a week+ trip, weekend, where too etc. My axle weight varied from a low of 5000, to close to 9000 when I had 3' of snow on the roof after one 3 day stuck in a blizzard. That was on a twin 3500lbe per axle setup.
To some degree Ben is correct, worry about Mr Murphy. Reality is, Mr Murphy will show up, even if you have ALL of the issues you thing Mr Murphy can throw at you. Not truck is truly big or large enough to handle a trailer that has not enough hitch weight, such that a trailer starts to sway by itself no matter what you do......
Good luck, have fun.

marty
There is not an absolute as to what will be a given or not.

Denali Newbie wrote:
And after re-reading your post handye9 I see there is alot of valuable and pertinent info there. So maybe payload is the other weak link along with weight hitch right?
I will check the door jam for info and get a pic of the hitch and post it here.
And also I'm surprised my Denali 6.2l V8 monster can pull less than the the models with a smaller motor. Is that more to do with magnetic ride suspension? Cuz obviously it has a more powerful engine but has the lower tow limit by GMC.

When manufacturers calculate tow weights and payloads, they are considering numerous items. Power train, drive train, axle gear ratios, suspension, frame, cab size, installed options, tires, wheels, brakes, etc. The engine is just part of their calculations.

Besides checking your payload, look at your hitch receiver, it will have a stamp or decal that says what it's weight ratings are (with and without weight distribution). It will most likely be rated for 500 / 5000 lbs without WD, and a higher set of numbers with WD. When loaded for camping, your trailer's tongue weight and loaded weight (maybe, not by much) will be over the amount for towing without weight distribution.

If you want CAT scale weights, load up (truck and trailer) as if you're going camping.

At the scale, park in the lot and go in to speak with weigh master. Tell him / her you'd like to get three weights. 1. Truck / trailer with weight distribution applied. 2. Truck and trailer without weight distribution applied. 3. Truck alone. Weigh master will let you know how he / she wants to proceed.

The scale has separate plates for each set of axles. When you pull onto the scale, put front (truck) axle on one plate, rear (truck) axle on second plate, and trailer axles on third plate. The call button (lets weigh master know you're ready) is located up high (for big rigs), bring a broom handle or something to extend your reach.

From those three weigh slips, you can see / calculate your loaded trailer weight, loaded tongue weight, loaded truck weight, combined truck / trailer weight, and amount of weight that is being lost and restored on your front axle, plus the amount of weight being transferred back to the trailer axles.

Note: Check the owners manual for the truck. In the towing section, it should tell you recommended amounts for front axle lost weight restoration. Different manufacturers, recommend different amounts. Some recommend 100 percent restored, some as little as 50 percent. Some speak in terms of pounds (this is where you would need scale weights), while others speak in fender well (height off the ground) measurements.