Towing with a 2016 GMC Yukon Denali

Haha Grit Dog. Thanks

Thank you handye9 for your detailed response. I understand that it complex but am just looking for someone who is familiar with that common vehicle to tell if what I'm after doing should be within the limits without taking the setup to CAT scale and going deep down the rabbit hole. Canoe would go on the roor rack of the yukon and the bicycles would be stored in the rear of the trailer. And I did provide a general idea of the rest of load.

“Now, if you don't want to become the next internet expert, like so many on this site and prefer to just live your life, then don't read this thread again.“

Follow grit dog’s advice! He’s the ONLY expert on this site. And he KNOWS manufacturers underrate the truck’s! KNOWS!

But if you have an issue and you are overloaded the manufacturer waives that card at the judge and walks out of the courtroom without paying a dime. You pay it. You exceed specifications. You are at fault. Not the manufacturer, not grit dog....you.

OP...if you are just looking to have a stack of printouts sitting next to you...then just wait a bit..you will get many, many "sure you can", "no problem", "I've been doing that for years with no problems"...ETC...


But, they have no skin in YOUR game (unfortunately many don'teven care IMHO), as there is only one person responsible for the setup...and...that is the driver..maybe your spouse or whomever

You don't need to be an expert, just knowledgeable enough to understand how that system(s) work

Or...you can go the route of hard knocks...

And note that all things engineered/designed are not for the good days when a riding lawn mower CAN DO IT, but for the possible day Mr Murphy crosses your path...

Either you have the right sized and/or set it up correctly spot on...or not...no time to go back to the store...nor reset it up

Simple answer is absolutely. And if it sags a bit too much for your likeing, add something to the rear suspension.
This all in the context of your original post.
Now, if you don't want to become the next internet expert, like so many on this site and prefer to just live your life, then don't read this thread again.
If you want to see 5 pages about Cat scales, bathroom scales, wd hitches, weighing each can of food that enters the camper, tire aspect ratio arguments, etc, stick around. This thread will be 5 pages by tomorrow night!
(PS you'll even get a couple people tell you you should buy a 3/4 ton truck and a couple more say it's smart and not much more to buy a 1 ton instead!)

There is no standard answer to "Can I tow this?", all depends on how many people, how much stuff you plan to carry, how close you may be to any of your ratings.

Your tow vehicle has multiple weight ratings. The 8100 lb tow rating is just one of them. The vehicle also has a "max occupant / cargo weight" rating (AKA payload), the tires have both a speed and weight rating, the axles have weight ratings, and the hitch receiver has one rating for carrying dead weight (without weight distribution) and another rating for when weight distributing is applied. True towing capacity is limited to the weakest link in the vehicles overall ratings. Normally, that weak link is payload.

Trailer tongue weight and weight of added hitch / sway equipment are counted as cargo weight in / on the tow vehicle. Your tow vehicle needs a payload capacity to carry the combined weight of everything / everybody you put in or on it, plus the tongue / hitch weight.

Trailer tongue weight is not a constant number, it fluctuates up and down during every trip. Average is 12 - 13 percent of whatever the loaded trailer weight happens to be. Depending on how the trailer is loaded and location (in relation to it's axles) of it's holding tanks, tongue weight can be 15 - 16 percent. Less than ten percent can cause sway issues.

Weight distributing hitches have two purposes. The primary purpose is to restore lost weight (caused by trailer tongue weight) on the tow vehicle's front axle, and secondary purpose is leveling the tow vehicle / trailer combination.

Average trailer load (dishes, pots and pans, bedding, BBQ stuff, camp chairs, groceries, water, etc) is 800 - 1000 lbs. With 4500 lbs dry weight, you will be over 5000 lbs, loaded. I would say yes to the distributing hitch. Also note the weight ratings on your receiver hitch, it most likely will tell you weight distributing is required for tongue weight in excess of 500 lbs.

You'll find a tire / loading sticker on the drivers door post. It will have a number for "max occupant / cargo weight. That's the payload you have to work with. Your trailer will use about 800 lbs of that carrying capacity. If the bicycles and stuff create an issue with your payload, you could move some into the trailer.

My vehicle is similar, a Tahoe. I wouldn’t “tow” more than 6000-6500 pounds while rated at a max of 8400. That’s loaded/wet weight, not dry weight. However, you need to “carry” weight too. Trailer tongue, hitch, people, stuff in the tow vehicle. What is your payload? Mine is 1595. Unfortunately you violated the rule...buy or select the trailer first, then match a tow vehicle. You don’t need to be an expert, but you need to learn. Do some reading. Yes, you need sway and a WD hitch but they don’t increase payload or max trailer weight. Again, do some reading before you buy anything else. I love my Tahoe but it won’t carry or pull everything.