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jerem0621's avatar
jerem0621
Explorer II
Sep 29, 2014

Town & Country's a Tow Vehicle Finally

Finally got a hitch installed on my 2014 Town & Country... Can't wait to tow with it.

Its a Draw-Tite/Hidden Hitch 'Class III' hitch rated for 500 lbs of WD and 5000 lbs trailer weight (yes I know the vehicle is factory rated for 3600 lbs :S just like the 85 hp 1986 4 cyl Dodge Caravan). I found it on Craigslist for $100.00 including a 3 inch rise draw bar. The hitch is less than a year old and looks like new.

Figured some folks would stumble across this post that were considering outfitting their Town & Country/Grand Caravan/Routan asTow Vehicles and may find this post interesting (or entertaining.. who knows)

Initial observations are this this thing is beefy... the hitch it's self is physically larger and stronger looking than my 1997 F150's Receiver hitch. Here are some pic's of the hitch

This measurement was consistent over the entire hitch, I measured starting at the 1 inch mark for consistent measurements.



Top of the receiver tube



Bottom



Here is a shot of the welds..



Here it is all installed and everything buttoned up. It all hides really nicely under the rear bumper cover. Jack stands are your friend when you install one of these things yourself btw...




I've got to install the powered tail light converter and the 7 way RV plug, and the Draw-Tite Intella Stop brake control (It's a Prodigy relabeled as a Draw-Tite) next so everything will be good to go for our future PUP/small TT/Small Hybrid we choose.

I'll probably document those processes here too. I have everything I need except the 30 ft of 10 ga wiring for the brake controller and the 12 volt accessory power for the 7 way.

Oh, and I am NOT going to install the trailer wiring on the outside of the vehicle. It will all be mounted on the inside out of the weather, tucked away behind some of the panels. Basically the only time the 7 way RV plug will be in the elements is when we are towing. That should increase the life of the parts significantly.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

6 Replies

  • Update time...

    Got my brake controller wired in... We had a dear loved one pass over the weekend so I took some of the down time and installed the trailer wiring and the brake control in between all the activities and planning... Yea I know, strange... I like working on cars when I need to think and clear my head. So over three days I progressively got this job done.

    I feel a lot better by accomplishing something... But Man I am going to miss my wife's Paw Paw..(he was like my own!)

    I'm going to call this a budget brake controller install because I did this "on a budget" for a reasonable amount of money.

    Here is my parts list....

    1) Used Draw-Tite Intella Stop brake controller I scored for $55 (it's a relabeled Prodigy one with the red display) price includes the pigtail...($35 for the control on eBay and $20.00 for the pigtail at Camping world)
    2) Valley powered and circuit protected tail light converter (Fire-sale on eBay for $13.00!!) (I already had 30 ft primary wire for this and a sweet 20 amp fuse to power the converter)
    3) 50 ft Blue and 50 ft Black 10 ga primary wire from eBay for $22.00 shipped to the house
    4) Misc connectors- ring terminals, end to end connectors etc- $20 ish with TONS left over....ever heard of Posi-Taps? They are AWESOME btw...
    5) Hopkins 7 way super tough awesome vehicle side connector I bought years ago and never installed.... It's tough tough tough and I think I spent $13 ish years ago.
    6) 40 and 30 amp circuit breakers - $6.00 ish
    7) Etrailer...install videos- Free

    Total for the budget install was $129.00...

    Now, there were tools and electrical tape and wiring loom and zip ties that I already had so those were not counted but could add another $20 -30 ish depending on what you have in your toolbox.

    I was successful in hiding the wiring inside the vehicle behind the panel on the drivers side quarter panel trim. There is a access panel here on the Mini-van where the jack and the air pump is located.

    When not towing there is no evidence of the trailer wiring... When I need to tow I just pull the wiring out from behind the access panel and lay the wires outside of the rear hatch and hitch up and connect the wiring.

    All connections are secure and the brake controller works like new... Zero complaints there. The 7 way works like it should and overall, it's a clean install. I was fortunate to find the red display Prodigy instructions still on the net.

    I'm really looking forward to the self leveling feature of the Intella-Stop (Prodigy) and the boost feature.

    I'm happy...now I just got to start looking for a budget (used) 400-600 lb weight distribution hitch and start researching pups for our future camping adventures.

    Thanks everyone!

    Jeremiah
  • jerem0621 wrote:

    Oh, and I am NOT going to install the trailer wiring on the outside of the vehicle. It will all be mounted on the inside out of the weather, tucked away behind some of the panels. Basically the only time the 7 way RV plug will be in the elements is when we are towing. That should increase the life of the parts significantly.

    Thanks!

    Jeremiah


    Good photos. I installed a class III Curt hitch on our 2013 Grand Caravan. It also tucks in nicely behind the bumper cover. My Draw-Tite on my 2004 Ford Freestar tucks in the same way. It always bugs me to see the Toyota Sienna vans with the hitches hanging down really low.

    I agree with the comment about keeping the lights inside. I have not installed mine yet (I have all the parts). I installed the hitch myself last year, but health issues prevented me from doing the rest of the work, but installing the wiring inside is easier than crawling under the van. Good idea.
  • TXiceman wrote:
    Your hitch ball is on a typical dead weight stinger like used to pull a boat trailer. You will need to get a new hitch head with weight distribution bars and a sway control.

    Ken


    Not for my little utility trailer. :)

    My pup or Hybrid will absolutely have a WD hitch and sway control, I am a firm believer in them.

    Thanks!

    Jeremiah
  • Your hitch ball is on a typical dead weight stinger like used to pull a boat trailer. You will need to get a new hitch head with weight distribution bars and a sway control.

    Ken
  • We really liked towing with our T&C. Decent power, 17 MPG with the pop-up. Enjoy!