Travel trailer underbelly

Davion206 wrote:
WayneAt60344, I went out and laid down and scooted under our Windjammer again to look at the issue with the underbelly so I could better understand what DH is concerned about. It was just laying on top of the L-rail and not attached in any way. Therefore there are places it is "warped" leaving large gaps for road moisture, cold and worst of all mice to get up to the trailers componets. The underbelly on our 3008W was attached under the L-rail with a metal trim and screwed to the L-rail. Never a problem with mice or short bouts of freezing temps. IMO, this one is a mess. Be interesting to see what the dealer can do.

That sounds unusual. The underbelly on my 3001W is attached like your 3008W.

wmoses wrote:
No problem here. Mine is very securely attached - so much so it looks like it is not ever intended to be removed.

The underbelly on my 1 year old Windjammer sags some too. I don't think it's a problem and looks like it's securely attached. I don't think it could be made perfectly flat. I would not worry about it as it's corrugated plastic as noted above.

WayneAt60344, I went out and laid down and scooted under our Windjammer again to look at the issue with the underbelly so I could better understand what DH is concerned about. It was just laying on top of the L-rail and not attached in any way. Therefore there are places it is "warped" leaving large gaps for road moisture, cold and worst of all mice to get up to the trailers componets. The underbelly on our 3008W was attached under the L-rail with a metal trim and screwed to the L-rail. Never a problem with mice or short bouts of freezing temps. IMO, this one is a mess. Be interesting to see what the dealer can do.

I think camp-n-family and opnspaces have the correct answer. My Forest River Vibe is made in the same factory as your Windjammer. I have bulges in the coroplast where items protrude below the frame. I've had parts of mine down several times, first time because the fresh water tank was improperly secured. You can remove the screws in the area of concern and inspect your situation and only spend 30 minutes to do that. You'll find how simple that is to do and learn a bit about your trailer components. I have used expanding foam spray to seal where the coroplast edges gap. If already sealed with foam, just use a serrated kitchen knife to cut the foam. There is a plastic liner above the frame under the flooring but that seems impossible to be hanging considering the coroplast. However, it has been 15 months since I visited the factory and they may have changed construction methods since mine was built.

Camp-n-family.....our underbelly material is lying on top of the L-frame, therefore, we can not secure it with screws.

My apologies. I assumed you meant the material used for an enclosed under belly. I've never seen the fabric wrap material sag. From what I understand it is usually just stretched over the floor and stapled around the edges. The rest is supported by the frame it sits on. Not sure how you would fix that.

Same issue with mine this summer. Got to Fort Wilderness and the next morning discovered that the back 10 feet or so of my belly material had somehow worked loose and was hanging down on the street side, under my rear slide.

I'll tell you what I did, since I still had plenty of time to get it to the dealer... I duct taped that dang thing back up. So far, over 1500 towing miles later it's still holding fine. I'll have the dealer check it out once I'm done camping for the year. Not sure if that is a option for you. Likewise, mine seems to just have been laid in the "L" part of the frame, I can't really tell what (if anything) ever really held it in place to begin with.

Camp-n-family.....our underbelly material is lying on top of the L-frame, therefore, we can not secure it with screws.

First have someone crawl under and see if it's really sagging. on my Jayco it looks like it's sagging in spots, but it's really the waste tanks sticking down below the bottom of the frame.

No problem here. Mine is very securely attached - so much so it looks like it is not ever intended to be removed.

Save yourself the trip. It's thin corrugated plastic that likely doesn't have enough screws installed to stop it from sagging. Add a few self tapping screws yourself and problem solved. I wouldn't drive 5hrs for a 5 minute fix. Just make sure you hit the frame and cross members and don't pinch any wires.