TroyBuilt 3550 generator not doing it`

Thank you all! I am working to sell the TroyBilt and get the Champion 3500/4000. I will be more careful to be sure that what I am getting will work this time!

Seawind36 wrote:
We are so new to all this! Found a TroyBuilt 3550 generator with a Briggs and Stratton engine. When we went camping this weekend, the air would run for maybe 1/2 an hour then trip the generator and we had to reset. We realized that the generator has 2 reset switches so apparently neither on is enough to run the trailer. Anything we can do about that or do I need to buy another generator? We would appreciate some input!

You didn’t give exact model so I am guessing a bit with that.

If your Gen looks like the one in the link below then it may be Model 030331-0 which has three 120V 20A Duplex outlets and two breakers.

3550 MANUAL
The problem is the outlets are being protected via 15A circuit breakers per diagram in link below!

3550 Wiring Diagram

You however cannot “combine” the duplex outlets to provide more than 15A, nor can you change the breaker to a 20A or higher without damaging the gen (overloading).

The reason for this is the gen actually contains TWO separate 120V windings, the windings appear to in series (this is the same idea as a 120/240 service entrance).

Worse yet is they SPLIT the duplex outlets!

Yep, one half of the outlet is one winding and the other half is the other. This means between both hots on the same outlet is 240V!

Of course this is my best guess on this, you can prove this out by taking a Volt meter and placing a lead on the hot of one side of the duplex and the other lead on the other hot side of the SAME duplex. If reading is 240ish then it is the way I guessed and you are out of luck.

The cheapskates omitted the 240V outlet and made the gen to APPEAR to supply 3550W at 120V when it is in reality TWO SEPARATE 1675W 120V outputs.

Whatever you do, do not use any of those duplex outlet combiners on those outlets (they are often sold with a RV 120V 30A outlet).

Your gen cannot provide more than HALF the rating without a major INTERNAL rewire.

Personally, I would return (or sell if you can’t return) the gen and get a Champion (Yellow color China Import and can be found at Tractor Supply, Lowes, or Home Depot) gen which is switchable between 120V and 240 and in 120V mode WILL provide full power to a built in RV 120V 30A outlet.

If you want to continue to use this gen you will need to lighten your electrical load a lot. Your A/C unit will use about 13A so there is not much "head room" so to speak.

For instance you will need to set your fridge to run from propane only, this will save 300W right off the top.

You will need to make sure you do not have the electric heating element turned on in your water heater if equipped (1200W?)..

You may need to turn off the converter while using the A/C...

Or perhaps run a extra extension cord into the trailer and run a few other items from that cord (make sure it is plugged into the outlet for the other breaker)...

Twenty amps should run your AC , but not with anything else turned on ! Try it ! You can put your refig and water heat on propane !

You may need a different generator.

I looked up your generator and even the 120v twist lock is only 20a. It will start your AC but when the AC cycles and tries to start the compressor under pressure it is taking more than 20a and over loading the circuit.
You may want to make sure other things are not drawing power such as the battery charging or the fridge/ water heater on electric.

We use a $300 Champion 3500/4000. It is quieter than the troybuilt but not as quiet as a inverter generator. It has a 120v 30a RV plug that can deliver all of it's power thru it for running the rig.