I have my 2007 NL 10-2QRR mated to a 2016 Ram 3500 SRW LB. The dealer recommended a bed mat to prevent slippage but they only had 4'x8'x1/4". I thought it was a little thin, so I decided on a 4'x8'x1" stall mat.The problem is, I'm getting a little sag in the back right when on the truck so the side wall touches the vertical tailgate post (causes rubbing) and the diner box separates from the back wall by 1/2". When I drop it back down on the jacks, everything is fine.Keith at NL said this is not a common problem and it could be how it's mounted. They recommend a 1" plywood and then 3/8" DeeZee mat on top. The dealership suggested trying to shim between the mat and the outer bed wall with 1" of something (plywood, mat, etc) to support the outer wall of the camper.Does anyone have thoughts on this? I was going to cut down a couple plywood shims, but thought that could add a stress location at the back outside corner that might damage the fiberglass. Ideally I would think a mat that was the shape of the bed and 1" to 1-1/2" thick and contoured to the bed ridges would bethel way to go.

BK,Under most conditions a thin bed mat is best. Why? Very little offset or deflection when compressed. If you have a sagging problem due to the mat, it's too thick and flexible, which only comes into play when more pressure is placed on one spot or another. Also, you will get more camper sway out of a thick horse stall mat.After years of experimenting, thin and sticky are, for me, still the best combination.Mine is a 3/8" thick ribbed rubber matt and has done me well for 16 years.jefe

We just use a Westin rubber bed mat on top of a spray in liner. The combo provides good friction to keep the TC from sliding in the bed.Westin liner

I haven't looked closely at the NL construction, but it is similar to my Bigfoot I think. These are supported by the fiberglass sides of the box, there is not much in the middle. A 4' wide mat is fine from the wheel wells forward, but the box gets wider aft of the wheel wells, nearly filling the tailgate opening which is more like 5'. A 4' wide 1" thick mat is trying to support the floor in the middle, where there is little structure. I would try buying another small piece of 1" and filling in between the wheel wells and the tailgate to at least the tailgate width.I also agree with the sentiment that too thick and too soft isn't desirable. I use 1/2 plywood (wider that 4' at the tailgate) with a DeeZee type 3/8" hard rubber mat. The plywood helps bridge all the irregularities in the bed, the mat keeps the camper from eating the plywood or vice versa.

Ok, so it sounds like I should get a shim of mat for the Shor term if I can. A permanent solution is what NL said (1" plywood and 3/8" rubber mat). I don't dare go less than 1" as this truck has a satellite find on the cab which will damage the cab over (or vice versa) when bouncing down the road.

This seems a little strange to me. Maybe it's RAM/NL specific. I suppose I'd try plywood with the 1 inch stall matt since you have it.

Truck bed mat options | Good Sam Community

bkenobi
Explorer
Apr 16, 2017
Does the dense foam conform to the truck bed?
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Apr 16, 2017
bkenobi wrote:
Does the dense foam conform to the truck bed?

My Ford factory mat conforms to the bed ribs, but I don't think it is crucial.
What I noticed- at the end of the bed the ribs end few inches before and the mat did not made up for the difference.
I have 11-6 long camper, which puts lot of weight on that line, so I add extra shims to compensate.
TxGearhead
Explorer II
Apr 16, 2017
I had the same issues with my Bigfoot. I posted on here last summer and one of the senior members explained the support points on the Bigfoot. I don't like the idea of the camper being half on and half off the bed ridges. I made a 1/2" plywood support in 4 pieces that covered the entire bed. It is captured behind the tailgate posts so it can't slide out. I bought a RAM specific complete bed mat from Tractor Supply and use that on top of the plywood. It may be a DeeZee. I think it's 3/8" and it's fairly heavy.
Gaetan
Explorer
Apr 16, 2017
I suggest you buy a second 1" mat and cut them to the shape of the truck bed so you are sure their is no movement,
But the best is a mat shaped to the truck bed and they are not expensive
Gaetan
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Apr 16, 2017
The Ford bed mat is $150. I would not consider it expensive for custom fit.
The mat is about 1/2" but with ribs conforming to bed ribs.
But I am not buying 2nd to make a sandwich under the camper. Old 1/8" mat will do. From my observation, the camper basement floor is made out of 1 1/8" plywood, so pretty strong.
For comparison, my father's house is having same 1 1/8" subfloor with 4 feet between beams.
You'd be surprised seeing internal walls placed on the plywood between floor beams.
Bedlam
Moderator
Apr 16, 2017
I use 3/4" horses tall mats without issue or much deflection. As posted by others, you need fill those gaps aft of the wheel wells due to the camper base mold. If you need to build the height up more to clear your bed rails, I suggest a wood frame sandwiched in thin bed mats.
bkenobi
Explorer
Apr 16, 2017
I'm clearing the rails and cab just fine. I just need to finish off the area behind the wheel wells. I think all the farm stores are closed today.
harley4275
Explorer
Apr 17, 2017
Also remember that some truck beds like my 15 Silverado, have a curve to the bed. Take a 6 or 8 ft level or straight board and you can see the arch from front to back. I added a 1'x4' piece of plywood 3/8 thick to the rear of the bed to offset the rocking.
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Apr 17, 2017
Interesting thread. I have never used anything but my Rhino spray in bedliner with my previous Lance and now my Palomino. No sag anywhere and it's never slipped at all even in off camber off road ventures. But then...newer trucks have thinner metal beds,

My 97 F350 tailgate weighs around 50 pounds. My buddy's 2013 Silverado tailgate weighs around 20 pounds.

I was surprised. We loaded my quad in his Silverado using my aluminum ramps on the tailgate and when he drove the quad in, it tweaked the tailgate. Never had that issue with my older Ford.

Lighter is better, but not where it counts.
HMS_Beagle
Explorer
Apr 17, 2017
The box on a Lance is built quite differently than a Bigfoot or NL. Here is what I did. I used 1/2" plywood because I didn't need any more rise. I did something similar with my old camper and truck, but spaced 1/2" on top of 2x2, with 3/8 on the bottom. On a BF, the 2x2 really only needs to be around the perimeter, as that is the only place the camper will put any weight. I hung the plywood out the back about 6" to eliminate the hard spot created by the end of the bed. On top of this is a 3/8" truck mat. You can see the black spots from the mat is where all the pressure is. That's right where you have nothing with a 4x8 1" mat.