Truck Camper battery isolator

Cheap isolation

Cheap no voltage drop method. Used one in PUs for years. Basically a no fail device.

I also use constant duty solenoid- triggered by ignition thru a switch in dash, doesn't get turned on until we've been driving a while...
but I really don't know much about BlueSea-other than generally more expensive, however the 65amp rating gives me pause...
referring to adequate for amps that a power boat motor might put out...

WyoTraveler wrote:
Cheap isolation

Cheap no voltage drop method. Used one in PUs for years. Basically a no fail device.

X2

I think the wire size restricts current to well below 65 amps. I need to see what current protection (fuse?) Rating is on that line. I could see using the selonoid if I was runing heavy wire all the way back. but the camper wire still limits current and connector is probably only good for 30 amp.

Traditional insulators were good for old charging system where alternators set to high voltage had second name "Battery boiler"
I had those in the past on motorhomes and at least 2 dead battery banks were due insulator leaking the current to ground.
So I ditto using a relay. With camper combo it is easy to do what Ford does from factory and have relay activated by ignition.
If you really want to go high-tech, you can buy battery combiner.
Those are relays controlled by electronic circuit and work both ways. Meaning you will get truck battery maintained when you plug camper in shore power.
I think the Blue Sea is combiner, but description is sketchy.

WyoTraveler wrote:
Cheap isolation

Cheap no voltage drop method. Used one in PUs for years. Basically a no fail device.

This is the best way. Cheap, effective, almost never fail, and 0 voltage loss.

back to looking at the old relay.

The Blue Sea device is a great little device, but the problem with my application is if it sees higher than 13.6v for 30 seconds, or higher than 13.0v for 2 min "ON EITHER SIDE OF ISOLATOR" it will close circuit and connect both battery sides.

This is a problem for me because my solar charging voltage will trigger this device, but I don't want to share my 200w Solar to charge pickup truck batteries.

Your house batteries will not get 13V till they are almost fully charged.
In such situation why not use solar power to maintain your truck batteries?

Here's the route I went but, no solar in the equation (yet). Is working as advertised.

ACR install

Or you just buy good isolator...not like the old-school aluminum bricks but MOSFET-based. Virtually no voltage drop, no heat sinks, no slapping of solenoids open-and-closed, and just plain simple-stupid.