Truck camper checklist and supplement to owner's manual
After having the TC now for 4 years, DH has put together quite a list of tips and a checklist. Some of this stuff is specific to the Bigfoot model that we have (30-C-1002), but some is pretty generic. I thought that I would share.
Prep for Movement
1 Check tire pressures: Rear 80 psi, Front 65/70 psi. Always double tap the air tool for accuracy (remove and reseat).
2 Stow interior from moving items. Strap TV. Tie stove door. Latch bathroom door.
3 Gas appliances OFF.
4 Close valve on each gas tank top.
5 Gas valve in tank bay OFF (center position).
6 Water pump OFF.
7 Close all windows and roof vents.
8 Retract slide.
9 Install slide locks at far ends of the slide top, pads well seated and tight.
10 Unhook power and cable and remove from inside bed before lowering legs.
11 Lower T/C fully onto truck. Fold front legs in.
12 Install tie downs.
13 Connect truck power cable, but only after starting cold truck.
14 Test T/C lights.
15 Strap rear stairs securely, they will unfold in motion.
16 Check air suspension: Right & Left bags @ 90?95 psi, each has it’s own valve. Camper must be fully settled on truck. If the camper is still supported on the legs when the bags are filled, they can end up being way over pressure when the camper is lowered. The bags are 100 psi Max!
17 If the truck batteries are disconnected, reconnect the driver’s side knife switch first, then the passenger’s side front battery knife switch second.
18 Rear camera: connect monitor power cable in cab, press nearby lamp for power up, turn monitor on. Set truck lights to parking lights, headlights, or fogs. Remove cover from camera.
Prep for Use
1 Remove tie downs.
2 Unplug power connector between T/C and truck. NEVER leave connected with AC applied!
3 Connect to shore power. 15 amp blade adapter is safest unless certain of 120v three prong.
4 Lower legs and level. Use pads if necessary.
5 Remove slide locks.
6 Extend slide.
7 Gas tank valves to ON. The tail of the regulator handle is turned toward the primary feeder tank. If you know one is low and the other full, point toward the low tank.
Winterize Note: Black and Grey tanks should be empty. Black is closest valve to door.
1. Turn water pump OFF at control panel.
2. Open fresh drain valve in utilities bay, left of stairs. This can take a long time to drain out.
3. Open all faucets to half hot/cold including shower with spray head open.
4. Lift blow off lever to vent pressure. Remove water heater 15/16” drain plug from heater
bay. Don’t leave the blow off lever up. Store plug or rethread loosely into drain. Pull the
electrical connector from the PCB on the water heater control board.
5. Close all faucets and fresh drain once flow stops, the fresh tank is now empty.
6. OPTIONAL: Compressed air at 30psi max can be blown into shore water hookup (threaded female fitting). Do not overpressure! Run each faucet to remove water.
7. Isolate water heater by turning two valves to cross?line position: closed. These are below the bathroom sink.
8. Remove lower drawer in kitchen next to stove. Find loose end of clear tube below.
9. Insert loose end of tube into full jug of potable antifreeze.
10. Turn white valve at origin of clear pickup tube to cross?line position: closed.
11. Turn water pump ON at control panel. Tube should begin to suck antifreeze. This might be rather gurgly and slow, but it will finally charge the pump. If a valve somewhere is open, the
antifreeze will be flowing there, so be careful that all faucets are off.
12. Open then close all valves in this order (!) until the antifreeze flows solid from each:
a. Kitchen sink: hot then cold.
b. Bathroom sink: hot then cold.
c. Shower: hot then cold. Bring a bucket to catch the AF. Easiest to remove shower head.
d. Toilet. Leave 1 or 2 inches in bowl.
e. If done in this order, one gallon will be enough.
13. Turn water pump OFF at control panel. Remove black power wire from behind if desired to prevent accidental activation of the water pump during shutdown season.
14. Return the clear pickup tube valve to in?line: open. Remove tube from AF jug and store tube. Replace drawer.
15. Open all sink and shower valves to half hot/cold (middle) and leave this way.
16. Pour remainder of antifreeze down both sink and shower drains to protect goose necks.
17. Open the fresh drain valve in the utility bay and let any clear water drain out, then close.
Spring Start Up
The shore water hose entry fitting (threaded female) can be used to quickly flush antifreeze from the plumbing system. The water pump is not needed to provide pressure when this fitting is used with a garden hose. This method bypasses the main fresh tank but will fill the water heater if the cut off valves are open.
1. Be certain that all faucets are fully closed in the camper!
2. Turn on hose to a moderate pressure.
3. Open all faucets one at a time and let run until clear. You can have Grey tank drain valve open to allow old anti freeze to dump to ground.
4. Now is the time to confirm that the water pump sight bowl is ok after winter storage. This is located underneath the stove. Pulling out the lower kitchen drawer and looking to the rear
with a flashlight is recommended. If you see water dripping, there is a leak or broken part. This is why it is only recommended to use the shore hose connection or add only a few gallons to the fresh tank, in case there is a leak. The sight bowl can be located with your right hand, but it is a tough reach.
5. Add water to fresh holding tank. Move hose from threaded shore entry to tank fill fitting.
Start with just a few gallons for now until you are satisfied the system is good.
6. Turn water pump on at control panel. If the LED does not come on, the black power lead might have been disconnected behind the control panel. Four screws to open panel.
7. Open kitchen faucet to cold. It will take time for the water to flow back to the pump and prime the plumbing. Gurgling & intermittent rumbles will be heard. If these noises don’t stop, check the pump sight bowl again. Also check that the antifreeze pickup cross line valve is in the open (in?line) position. Once the pump is confirmed OK and water is flowing more or less freely from the kitchen faucet in cold, the rest of the faucets can be run till clear and the main fresh tank can be fully filled.
8. Turn both water heater valves to in?line: open. Under bathroom sink.
9. Replace the 15/16” plug in the water heater drain, outside bay. Use Teflon tape. Not too tight!
10. The water heater can take time to gather its 6 gallons. This is assisted by opening the hot faucets and letting some air out. The system holds 40g in the main tank and 6g in the heater.
11. Test water heater. Confirm that the electrical connector in outside bay is plugged in if the switch does not activate the heater. I often unplug the PCB in the outside heater bay.
12. Sanitize the fresh water system per instructions.
Special Note: if the system has been sitting full for a long time, the air pressure ‘head’ might dissipate. This head resides in the water heater. In this case the pump will run constantly anytime water is flowing and it will not develop any residual pressure. To correct this:
1. Drain a gallon or so from the water heater via the 15/16” drain plug and using the pressure
release lever to let air back into the top of the water heater. Always open the pressure
release lever first to bleed pressure or you will take a shower from the drain plug! If you have two people, one can hold their thumb over the drain hole to save water while the second applies fresh Teflon tape to the plug.
2. Refill and test.
Prep for Movement
1 Check tire pressures: Rear 80 psi, Front 65/70 psi. Always double tap the air tool for accuracy (remove and reseat).
2 Stow interior from moving items. Strap TV. Tie stove door. Latch bathroom door.
3 Gas appliances OFF.
4 Close valve on each gas tank top.
5 Gas valve in tank bay OFF (center position).
6 Water pump OFF.
7 Close all windows and roof vents.
8 Retract slide.
9 Install slide locks at far ends of the slide top, pads well seated and tight.
10 Unhook power and cable and remove from inside bed before lowering legs.
11 Lower T/C fully onto truck. Fold front legs in.
12 Install tie downs.
13 Connect truck power cable, but only after starting cold truck.
14 Test T/C lights.
15 Strap rear stairs securely, they will unfold in motion.
16 Check air suspension: Right & Left bags @ 90?95 psi, each has it’s own valve. Camper must be fully settled on truck. If the camper is still supported on the legs when the bags are filled, they can end up being way over pressure when the camper is lowered. The bags are 100 psi Max!
17 If the truck batteries are disconnected, reconnect the driver’s side knife switch first, then the passenger’s side front battery knife switch second.
18 Rear camera: connect monitor power cable in cab, press nearby lamp for power up, turn monitor on. Set truck lights to parking lights, headlights, or fogs. Remove cover from camera.
Prep for Use
1 Remove tie downs.
2 Unplug power connector between T/C and truck. NEVER leave connected with AC applied!
3 Connect to shore power. 15 amp blade adapter is safest unless certain of 120v three prong.
4 Lower legs and level. Use pads if necessary.
5 Remove slide locks.
6 Extend slide.
7 Gas tank valves to ON. The tail of the regulator handle is turned toward the primary feeder tank. If you know one is low and the other full, point toward the low tank.
Winterize Note: Black and Grey tanks should be empty. Black is closest valve to door.
1. Turn water pump OFF at control panel.
2. Open fresh drain valve in utilities bay, left of stairs. This can take a long time to drain out.
3. Open all faucets to half hot/cold including shower with spray head open.
4. Lift blow off lever to vent pressure. Remove water heater 15/16” drain plug from heater
bay. Don’t leave the blow off lever up. Store plug or rethread loosely into drain. Pull the
electrical connector from the PCB on the water heater control board.
5. Close all faucets and fresh drain once flow stops, the fresh tank is now empty.
6. OPTIONAL: Compressed air at 30psi max can be blown into shore water hookup (threaded female fitting). Do not overpressure! Run each faucet to remove water.
7. Isolate water heater by turning two valves to cross?line position: closed. These are below the bathroom sink.
8. Remove lower drawer in kitchen next to stove. Find loose end of clear tube below.
9. Insert loose end of tube into full jug of potable antifreeze.
10. Turn white valve at origin of clear pickup tube to cross?line position: closed.
11. Turn water pump ON at control panel. Tube should begin to suck antifreeze. This might be rather gurgly and slow, but it will finally charge the pump. If a valve somewhere is open, the
antifreeze will be flowing there, so be careful that all faucets are off.
12. Open then close all valves in this order (!) until the antifreeze flows solid from each:
a. Kitchen sink: hot then cold.
b. Bathroom sink: hot then cold.
c. Shower: hot then cold. Bring a bucket to catch the AF. Easiest to remove shower head.
d. Toilet. Leave 1 or 2 inches in bowl.
e. If done in this order, one gallon will be enough.
13. Turn water pump OFF at control panel. Remove black power wire from behind if desired to prevent accidental activation of the water pump during shutdown season.
14. Return the clear pickup tube valve to in?line: open. Remove tube from AF jug and store tube. Replace drawer.
15. Open all sink and shower valves to half hot/cold (middle) and leave this way.
16. Pour remainder of antifreeze down both sink and shower drains to protect goose necks.
17. Open the fresh drain valve in the utility bay and let any clear water drain out, then close.
Spring Start Up
The shore water hose entry fitting (threaded female) can be used to quickly flush antifreeze from the plumbing system. The water pump is not needed to provide pressure when this fitting is used with a garden hose. This method bypasses the main fresh tank but will fill the water heater if the cut off valves are open.
1. Be certain that all faucets are fully closed in the camper!
2. Turn on hose to a moderate pressure.
3. Open all faucets one at a time and let run until clear. You can have Grey tank drain valve open to allow old anti freeze to dump to ground.
4. Now is the time to confirm that the water pump sight bowl is ok after winter storage. This is located underneath the stove. Pulling out the lower kitchen drawer and looking to the rear
with a flashlight is recommended. If you see water dripping, there is a leak or broken part. This is why it is only recommended to use the shore hose connection or add only a few gallons to the fresh tank, in case there is a leak. The sight bowl can be located with your right hand, but it is a tough reach.
5. Add water to fresh holding tank. Move hose from threaded shore entry to tank fill fitting.
Start with just a few gallons for now until you are satisfied the system is good.
6. Turn water pump on at control panel. If the LED does not come on, the black power lead might have been disconnected behind the control panel. Four screws to open panel.
7. Open kitchen faucet to cold. It will take time for the water to flow back to the pump and prime the plumbing. Gurgling & intermittent rumbles will be heard. If these noises don’t stop, check the pump sight bowl again. Also check that the antifreeze pickup cross line valve is in the open (in?line) position. Once the pump is confirmed OK and water is flowing more or less freely from the kitchen faucet in cold, the rest of the faucets can be run till clear and the main fresh tank can be fully filled.
8. Turn both water heater valves to in?line: open. Under bathroom sink.
9. Replace the 15/16” plug in the water heater drain, outside bay. Use Teflon tape. Not too tight!
10. The water heater can take time to gather its 6 gallons. This is assisted by opening the hot faucets and letting some air out. The system holds 40g in the main tank and 6g in the heater.
11. Test water heater. Confirm that the electrical connector in outside bay is plugged in if the switch does not activate the heater. I often unplug the PCB in the outside heater bay.
12. Sanitize the fresh water system per instructions.
Special Note: if the system has been sitting full for a long time, the air pressure ‘head’ might dissipate. This head resides in the water heater. In this case the pump will run constantly anytime water is flowing and it will not develop any residual pressure. To correct this:
1. Drain a gallon or so from the water heater via the 15/16” drain plug and using the pressure
release lever to let air back into the top of the water heater. Always open the pressure
release lever first to bleed pressure or you will take a shower from the drain plug! If you have two people, one can hold their thumb over the drain hole to save water while the second applies fresh Teflon tape to the plug.
2. Refill and test.
