davehultin wrote:
I’m most unsure about the wall thickness, I’ll have to hunt for a place to measure before I pop the old window out.
>> Now sure what you mean you want the same screw holes to line up.
I thought the window would arrive with predrilled holes and I wanted those holes to line up with the existing screw holes in the wall. But I think you’re saying that I’ll be making my own new holes. If that’s the case, then I’ll soon be ready to give it a try.
To measure the wall thickness, take off the inside trim ring (clamp ring). The window should be stuck to the outside wall, but old putty tape may be all dried up and the window fall out too. Have a helper make sure it will not fall out.
Once the trim ring is off, then, using a metal scale, slide it down the side of the rough opening and measure the total wall thickness. There is about 1/8" to 1/4" air space around the window where a metal scale that starts at 0" can slide down past the window and touch the outside flange of the window. You may have to account for the old putty tape on the wall.
And yes, you will cut new screw holes in the new window frame using the clamp ring as a hole template.
If your old window has old dried-up putty tape sealing it to the siding, all that old tape has to come off and be cleaned up on both the frame and the siding. I would "not" use putty tape again to seal it. I would recommend using high-quality commercial steel building butyl tape. If you have a supply house nearby that sells products for pole barns or steel buildings, they most likely will have good butyl tape. 1/8" thick x 1" wide by the roll. I use GSSI (brand) MB-10A butyl tape. There are also other good brands. I would not go to the RV store and ask what they use on windows, odds are high they will give you putty tape. A lower-grade formulation of butyl that trims easily, but does not last very long.
Hope this helps
John
