TT ability to withstand the cold.
We just got back from the RV show in PA and I've got questions about the best way to protect the tanks and piping underneath the TT from freezing. I understand that even though some RVs claim to be 4...
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Having just had our underbelly coroplast off, the design of "heated underbellies" is ridiculous besides being very inefficient. There's a 2" layer of batt insulation under the tanks which gets squished and thus reduces it's R-value plus the insulation blocks air flow. The only way "heated" air gets from the front of the TT to the rear is via a small gap between the tanks and I-beams. It would be interesting to know what manufacturers do a better job, if at all, like maybe Northwoods products, OutdoorsRV, Nash & Arctic Fox. (These also have thicker walls.)
I also know they do a poor job of insulating ceiling cavities in TTs. I've seen the ceiling cavity in 3 TTs we've owned and it's sad what they do. Our current TT has an arched ceiling and because the joists taper down at the outer perimeter, there's no insulation for up to 6" in from the exterior wall. Lot's of voids too.
RVs in general aren't designed very well for cold weather. The exterior walls and ceiling assemblies have an exterior skin which is the moisture barrier/retarder and is opposite to buildings. Warm moisture-laden air migrates to the exterior surfaces and condenses on the interior side which can lead to mold, rot & delam. It's important to remove the moisture-laden air by cracking open some vents and windows or using a dehumidifier. Venting air out of course means you're losing heat and the furnace will need to run more.
I also know they do a poor job of insulating ceiling cavities in TTs. I've seen the ceiling cavity in 3 TTs we've owned and it's sad what they do. Our current TT has an arched ceiling and because the joists taper down at the outer perimeter, there's no insulation for up to 6" in from the exterior wall. Lot's of voids too.
RVs in general aren't designed very well for cold weather. The exterior walls and ceiling assemblies have an exterior skin which is the moisture barrier/retarder and is opposite to buildings. Warm moisture-laden air migrates to the exterior surfaces and condenses on the interior side which can lead to mold, rot & delam. It's important to remove the moisture-laden air by cracking open some vents and windows or using a dehumidifier. Venting air out of course means you're losing heat and the furnace will need to run more.
