2019 Kodiak Ultra Lite plugged into GFCI outlet from garage. I've had it this way for a few months without issue. We had the power go out last night and when it came back on today I'm having issues plugging the TT in without popping shore breaker. I killed all TT breakers and shore breaker is ok. Turning them on one-by-one the only one causing issues is the one marked "general purpose". I gather this is the inverter which includes all TT 12VDC. I turned the fridge off since I didn't know which it was powered by but no luck.Any idea what to check? We have had the trailer since spring but it hasn't had much use so not sure of how everything works in this TT. I can talk to the dealership next week but it'd be nice to have some things to check since this seems likely something simple and I'd rather not drag it over there for a simple issue (especially since they'd likely have a 2 month wait to get it in).EDIT: In case it matters, the TT converter is a WFCO WF-8955PEC. I've seen a couple topics around that discuss bad converters. Is it possible the converter could have failed with a power fluctuation?

Just turning off a breaker doesn't isolate the circuit enough to remove a faulty device from tripping a GFCI. You need to unplug, disconnect things like the fridge to check them.

You mean locate the 115AC plug on the back of the fridge and unplug it? I hadn't thought of that but sure worth a try. The only things that are AC in the TT that I know of are Fridge (2-way), water heater (2-way), A/C (30A), TV (plugged in but not turned on), and the converter which charges the batteries and provides 12VDC. Thanks for the suggestion!I forgot to mention that this is connected using the TT 25' 30A cable to 15A adapter to 50' 16ga extension cord. I assumed it was the extension cord even though it's been used for both this TT and the TC I had for a few years so I tried with a heavy duty 50' 12ga with the same result.

Now that I think more about it, I recall that we did have a similar issue with the TC years ago that resolved for no real reason. I talked to either Parallax or Northern Lite about it and am now remembering that they said a GFCI outlet may not work with a converter as they sometimes have unbalanced hot/neutral. I don't recall why but I'm guessing this might be the issue. I'll try moving to a different 15A plug to confirm.I have the TT in a metal building but there is no power run to it. I have intended to run a 50A out there but haven't gotten to it. If this continues to be an issue, I may have to do something.

bkenobi wrote:You mean locate the 115AC plug on the back of the fridge and unplug it? I hadn't thought of that but sure worth a try. The only things that are AC in the TT that I know of are Fridge (2-way), water heater (2-way), A/C (30A), TV (plugged in but not turned on), and the converter which charges the batteries and provides 12VDC. Thanks for the suggestion!I forgot to mention that this is connected using the TT 25' 30A cable to 15A adapter to 50' 16ga extension cord. I assumed it was the extension cord even though it's been used for both this TT and the TC I had for a few years so I tried with a heavy duty 50' 12ga with the same result. Well I don't much try to help with 120V on line because I can't judge the tool or skill set, might get somebody hurt. Put in this case I will offer some advice. Unplug that Christmas light cord, roll it up in a tight cord. Then grab you ax, lay the coil on a stump, and cut it in little pieces! That way you don't make the same mistake again. When you lay your money down, carry that cord out of store it has done what it is designed to do, move $ from your pocket to the storekeepers. I'm sure that somebody with education can show you how much resistance load that cord is putting on breaker. All I can say is the electrons just dribble out the end.

I unplugged the fridge and the breaker still popped. I pulled the reverse polarity battery charge fuses and the breaker stayed latched. When I tried to plug either fuse in the breaker popped. I noticed that there was a small spark when I touched the fuse to the terminal which GFCI don't like. I'm going to confirm my garage refrigerator is not GFCI (it shouldn't be) and test the TT there. I'll be calling WFCO tomorrow to see if they have any further thoughts. I assume the spark was because the charge circuit on the converter was still energized. Seems a better design would be to kill that when the battery is not connected but who knows.bkenobi wrote:I forgot to mention that this is connected using the TT 25' 30A cable to 15A adapter to 50' 16ga extension cord. I assumed it was the extension cord even though it's been used for both this TT and the TC I had for a few years so I tried with a heavy duty 50' 12ga with the same result.As I said, the extension cord isn't the issue but I understand using a thin and long cord isn't a good idea with high current. Since I only use this to keep the batteries charged, the fridge cool (to prevent mold), and maybe a small heater when it gets colder I haven't worried about it. Since it tested good with a different one, that's not the issue.

TT keeps popping shore breaker | Good Sam Community

StirCrazy
Moderator
Nov 08, 2022
bkenobi wrote:
I'll be calling WFCO tomorrow to see if they have any further thoughts. I assume the spark was because the charge circuit on the converter was still energized. Seems a better design would be to kill that when the battery is not connected but who knows.

.

It has to be that way otherwise you wouldnt have any 12V items working in the rv. converter does two things, supplies 12V power for use and charges the battery if you don't have the battery in it still has to do the other.
bkenobi
Explorer
Nov 08, 2022
Yup, it's too small for much of anything. I'm only using it because the good cord was eaten by a pack rat a couple years ago and i didn't want to feed it another one. Like i said, i checked with a decent cord and had same issue. I'm hoping for a callback from WFCO. I've already confirmed the TT works plugged into a non-GFCI recepticle.
Bobbo
Explorer II
Nov 08, 2022
wanderingbob wrote:
Never use a 16 ga ext cord for anything except to tie a small puppy !

I just STOLE this line!
wanderingbob
Explorer II
Nov 07, 2022
Never use a 16 ga ext cord for anything except to tie a small puppy !
time2roll
Nomad
Nov 06, 2022
Just to confirm.... it is the home breaker tripping not the GFCI that trips. Is that home breaker 15 amp or 20?

I would start with the main and the "general" circuit first and see if that holds. Battery may need charged and may require most of the power for 2 to 4 hours. Verify the water heater is on a separate circuit.

BTW what is the battery voltage?
Thermoguy
Explorer II
Nov 06, 2022
Why do you have the trailer plugged in to power? To keep the fridge on so it doesn't get mold?

Winterize, open the door to the fridge and freezer, drain any water, etc. then you won't need the extension cord. You are using a temporary extension cord for a mostly permanent power source, that's a good way to start a fire. I have a 30AMP pedestal right next to my trailer and I still winterize and leave it unplugged for the winter, no fire hazard, no issue of burning up my batteries due to a bad charger, and no warm place for the mice to nest.

Good Luck with your power problem, sorry I couldn't be of help.
bkenobi
Explorer
Nov 06, 2022
I unplugged the fridge and the breaker still popped. I pulled the reverse polarity battery charge fuses and the breaker stayed latched. When I tried to plug either fuse in the breaker popped. I noticed that there was a small spark when I touched the fuse to the terminal which GFCI don't like. I'm going to confirm my garage refrigerator is not GFCI (it shouldn't be) and test the TT there. I'll be calling WFCO tomorrow to see if they have any further thoughts. I assume the spark was because the charge circuit on the converter was still energized. Seems a better design would be to kill that when the battery is not connected but who knows.

bkenobi wrote:
I forgot to mention that this is connected using the TT 25' 30A cable to 15A adapter to 50' 16ga extension cord. I assumed it was the extension cord even though it's been used for both this TT and the TC I had for a few years so I tried with a heavy duty 50' 12ga with the same result.

As I said, the extension cord isn't the issue but I understand using a thin and long cord isn't a good idea with high current. Since I only use this to keep the batteries charged, the fridge cool (to prevent mold), and maybe a small heater when it gets colder I haven't worried about it. Since it tested good with a different one, that's not the issue.
JRscooby
Explorer II
Nov 06, 2022
bkenobi wrote:
You mean locate the 115AC plug on the back of the fridge and unplug it? I hadn't thought of that but sure worth a try. The only things that are AC in the TT that I know of are Fridge (2-way), water heater (2-way), A/C (30A), TV (plugged in but not turned on), and the converter which charges the batteries and provides 12VDC. Thanks for the suggestion!

I forgot to mention that this is connected using the TT 25' 30A cable to 15A adapter to 50' 16ga extension cord. I assumed it was the extension cord even though it's been used for both this TT and the TC I had for a few years so I tried with a heavy duty 50' 12ga with the same result.

Well I don't much try to help with 120V on line because I can't judge the tool or skill set, might get somebody hurt. Put in this case I will offer some advice. Unplug that Christmas light cord, roll it up in a tight cord. Then grab you ax, lay the coil on a stump, and cut it in little pieces! That way you don't make the same mistake again. When you lay your money down, carry that cord out of store it has done what it is designed to do, move $ from your pocket to the storekeepers.
I'm sure that somebody with education can show you how much resistance load that cord is putting on breaker. All I can say is the electrons just dribble out the end.
bkenobi
Explorer
Nov 06, 2022
Now that I think more about it, I recall that we did have a similar issue with the TC years ago that resolved for no real reason. I talked to either Parallax or Northern Lite about it and am now remembering that they said a GFCI outlet may not work with a converter as they sometimes have unbalanced hot/neutral. I don't recall why but I'm guessing this might be the issue. I'll try moving to a different 15A plug to confirm.

I have the TT in a metal building but there is no power run to it. I have intended to run a 50A out there but haven't gotten to it. If this continues to be an issue, I may have to do something.
bkenobi
Explorer
Nov 06, 2022
You mean locate the 115AC plug on the back of the fridge and unplug it? I hadn't thought of that but sure worth a try. The only things that are AC in the TT that I know of are Fridge (2-way), water heater (2-way), A/C (30A), TV (plugged in but not turned on), and the converter which charges the batteries and provides 12VDC. Thanks for the suggestion!

I forgot to mention that this is connected using the TT 25' 30A cable to 15A adapter to 50' 16ga extension cord. I assumed it was the extension cord even though it's been used for both this TT and the TC I had for a few years so I tried with a heavy duty 50' 12ga with the same result.