Unbraked trailer, towing limitations

blt2ski wrote:
My recommendation from past experience, if the trailer wieght puts you over the basic GVWR of the TV, adding brakes is a smart move.
I used to tow a 3000 lb max trailer with a 1 ton dually in landscape biz. Truck was loaded with yard debris, trailer mowers, 2-3 body's, total around 14000 lbs. Put brakes on trailer, we were stopping 10-20' sooner, brakes lasted longer etc.

As noted, if the axel has the square plate with four holes on it, you can add brakes from any auto parts, some Marine supply places, RV parts houses have or can get you brakes. While you can use your house battery as the power for run away brakes....you may want to get a smaller U1 battery for trailer brakes. Especially if you dry camp alot. If you take off with a drained battery that is below 11.5V, get an inspection from an LEO, you can get a failed brake ticket for to low of voltage. aNY of us can have this issue....chances are few with an RV vs someone pulling in a commercial usage.

Marty

I recently put brakes on my Primo 6x12 700 lb aluminum trailer with a 2990 GVWR and did not install a brake away switch or battery as Arizona where the trailer is licensed and Washington where the TV is licensed do not require brakes on trailers under 3000 lbs. The kit from Etrailer, junction box and 7 pin pigtail was less than 400. I was able to route the wires inside the side box rails and inside the A-frame hitch area. Kit was backing plates, new hubs with drums, bearings, seals, bolts and nuts to mount backing plates, axle nuts and lug nuts.

It is taking a bit of miles to "seat" the new brake shoes to the drums. These are auto adjust brakes, and they adjust when you back up and stop.

Last summer I towed the trailer North with my Can Am Spyder on it behind a 2020 Ford Edge ST.



I towed in back South behind a 2021 F150.



This is why I decided to install the brakes.