I have a new to me 09 Puma 29FQS that I am quickly learning about. I was up underneath checking things out and saw this damage in the right side wheel well and some forward and aft of it.I apologize for the pics not being better but being under the TT on my back with the camera , Oh well. Anyway the first two pics are in the fender well area and the last one in just behind the fenderwellI have searched the internet for the fabric and haven't found any. The fabric that is on it breaths and is not very strong but I got to thinking about the black fabric we use in the garden and other places we don't want to have weeds grow. It looks like it will work. I also have some Shurtape Gaffers tape and I bought a roll of Gorilla tape to try out. I noticed some rust on the frame in places so I got a couple of rattle cans of rust converter and some rubberized undercoating to take care of the rust problem.All comments and suggestions are appreciated.

If that happened on mine, I would likely fabricate wheels wells using aluminum or galvanized sheet metal. I suppose I would secure it in place with pop rivets and then seal any exposed edges with caulk.

I can't help with what the name is.When I had a blow out, I had a little damage. Cleaned it up and covered the damage with Gorilla tape.I'm interested in what it is called, as well.Pat

It is interesting to mention upgrading the area in question with something stronger that would resist damage better if this happened again in the future. Should I be concerned about letting the area breat, so to speak, or is that a non issue.

I had to make some cuts in our old camper to do some repair work. I used black Gorilla tape and it held for years. Just try to clean it the best you can first.The black fabric can be bought from a mobile home supply store, but I never found it in small amounts.You might would benefit from placing something rigid across that spot then tape it in, like corrugated plastic or an old for sale sign.

The fabric is called Darco and is difficult to find in the proper thickness in small amounts at retail. I have patched mine in a few places and Gorilla Tape is excellent at sticking on there and staying stuck on there. Just clean the area good first.Sorry to see one of the areas that mfrs skimp on is leaving off the sheet metal wheel wells liners. If the OP has a blowout, it's fairly likely that he will wind up with a hole in his floor. The sheet metal doesn't have to be very thick to absorb the energy of an unraveling tire. I'm with therink on this one, I would tape up the Darco and figure out how to get some sheet metal up in there.It looks from the photos that the Darco has been gradually abraded from the tires, and it may be the angle of the photo, but it looks like insufficient tie clearance. There should be 2.5" - 3.0" clearance above the tire to allow for suspension travel etc. From the looks of this, every time the TT hits a dip in the road, the tire bumps up and rubs the Darco briefly. Do that enough times and you get what we see in the photos.So to summarize for the OP:1. Gorilla tape on the Darco;2. Get some sheet metal up in there;3. Measure clearance above the tire and repair suspension as necessary.

Undercarriage Fabric Repair on TT | Good Sam Community

Marauderer
Explorer
Apr 25, 2014
Huntindog wrote:
When getting the tires balanced, they need to use a lug plate.
Most all TT wheels are lug centric, not hub centric like on a car.
This means that the big hole in the center of the TT rim is not actually in the center. Balancing using the center hole is a waste of time/money and may well make it worse.

Most tire shops hate to use them if they even have them.

Interesting. My tire shop did them the standard car way and I will have to see how they do. My shop was good in they didn't charge me to balance them but they didn't have a lug plate. I imagine if I can find a place that has a lug plate they will be really expensive to get them balanced as most places charge $8-10/wheel just to car balance them.
Huntindog
Explorer
Apr 25, 2014
When getting the tires balanced, they need to use a lug plate.
Most all TT wheels are lug centric, not hub centric like on a car.
This means that the big hole in the center of the TT rim is not actually in the center. Balancing using the center hole is a waste of time/money and may well make it worse.

Most tire shops hate to use them if they even have them.
GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Apr 25, 2014
BurbMan wrote:
Where you have the jackstands is OK, I personally like jacking on the frame. Reason not the axle tube is that if you look at the axle, it has an arch to it, that's how the suspension gets it's camber. With the weight of the trailer where the spring is, and the jack up farther along the axle tube, you could possibly bend the axle or screw up the camber. You probably figured out by now that nothing on these trailers is "heavy duty" or bulletproof.....

Yep.
Marauderer
Explorer
Apr 25, 2014
BurbMan wrote:
Where you have the jackstands is OK, I personally like jacking on the frame. Reason not the axle tube is that if you look at the axle, it has an arch to it, that's how the suspension gets it's camber. With the weight of the trailer where the spring is, and the jack up farther along the axle tube, you could possibly bend the axle or screw up the camber. You probably figured out by now that nothing on these trailers is "heavy duty" or bulletproof.....

I hear you BurbMan. I would never jack an axle in the center and your correct that I am pushing where I had it in the pic.

Yes, it is very obvious that the bean counters are in control of what components are used in this industry.
BurbMan
Explorer II
Apr 24, 2014
Where you have the jackstands is OK, I personally like jacking on the frame. Reason not the axle tube is that if you look at the axle, it has an arch to it, that's how the suspension gets it's camber. With the weight of the trailer where the spring is, and the jack up farther along the axle tube, you could possibly bend the axle or screw up the camber. You probably figured out by now that nothing on these trailers is "heavy duty" or bulletproof.....
Marauderer
Explorer
Apr 24, 2014
GrandpaKip wrote:
As an aside, you really should not jack it up by the axle tube.

Ok Kip, and your suggestion on how to do it is??? I ask that question as I have always done it that way and I would like your reasoning for not doing it the way I did it so I can learn.
BurbMan
Explorer II
Apr 24, 2014
brockwellw wrote:
They make a repaire tape just like it. You apply it and then heat it with heat gun or hair dryer and it swinks and seals.

Is this the repair tape:

I bought a roll of this from this site and it peeled off before the summer was over...it didn't come with instructions and it doesn't say on the site (click pic for link) to heat it...wondered why the repair didn't hold...
ReferDog
Explorer
Apr 24, 2014
AllRite .com has what you are looking for.
GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Apr 24, 2014
As an aside, you really should not jack it up by the axle tube.
westend
Explorer
Apr 24, 2014
Attaboy, that's the way to get right on it!