Upgrading Brakes Question
I have to replace the brakes on my 2017 Sierra 1500, Crew Cab, Standard Bed. I would like to upgrade to something better than OEM. The Powerstop Truck and Tow Performance pads and rotors (drilled an...
Forum Discussion
Any higher performance friction materials will be better than OEM at the upper end of the temperature range, but most likely less at the lower temperature range
Meaning not as good an all round setup and will depend on how you drive, where you drive and the rest of your setup
I run the hardest material can find (a notch below racing) and know/live with the down sides...poorer performance when cold...gotta get them hot before they are better than OEM
As for drilled and slotted...am not a fan
Drilled reduces surface area and mass. Some drill patterns reduces approximately 40% of critical disc material. Both components to thermal dynamics heat rejection formula
Plus, only effective with high CFM/FPS...high REV's
Thermal cracking around drilled holes a huge issue if you get them hot often and then slow down below the CFM/FPS threshold. Ok if you plan on changing them often...like racers do. If you do go drilled, look for or ask for a heat dam slot to protect the hub bearings. Plus flushing more often
Had $1K slotted and cryogenic treated rotors and they heat checked just like the OEM. Went back to OEM and they last longer for my Suburban
High quality disc's best for most and is what is on my vehicles.
My daily has just a bit above OEM friction material for all around driving.
Also, most higher performance friction material will make more noise, as they are harder. Mine sounds like gravel on the disc when up to temp
(EDIT)...no longer use what my sig says...buddy sends me test pads from his lab for free. Cost is a write up...and send them back for forensics and get a set of catalog performance pads...till the next test
PS...make sure your trailer brake controller leads your TV brakes...and keep your trailer brakes friction material warm
Meaning not as good an all round setup and will depend on how you drive, where you drive and the rest of your setup
I run the hardest material can find (a notch below racing) and know/live with the down sides...poorer performance when cold...gotta get them hot before they are better than OEM
As for drilled and slotted...am not a fan
Drilled reduces surface area and mass. Some drill patterns reduces approximately 40% of critical disc material. Both components to thermal dynamics heat rejection formula
Plus, only effective with high CFM/FPS...high REV's
Thermal cracking around drilled holes a huge issue if you get them hot often and then slow down below the CFM/FPS threshold. Ok if you plan on changing them often...like racers do. If you do go drilled, look for or ask for a heat dam slot to protect the hub bearings. Plus flushing more often
Had $1K slotted and cryogenic treated rotors and they heat checked just like the OEM. Went back to OEM and they last longer for my Suburban
High quality disc's best for most and is what is on my vehicles.
My daily has just a bit above OEM friction material for all around driving.
Also, most higher performance friction material will make more noise, as they are harder. Mine sounds like gravel on the disc when up to temp
(EDIT)...no longer use what my sig says...buddy sends me test pads from his lab for free. Cost is a write up...and send them back for forensics and get a set of catalog performance pads...till the next test
PS...make sure your trailer brake controller leads your TV brakes...and keep your trailer brakes friction material warm
