V-Front Trailer & Chain Hangers

Lots of good info from everyone,thanks. And thanks Goducks10 for the weight #. This is similar to what I will be running with my GMC1500 with 9600lb max tow. TT is 6150lb dry and I think TW is 850-900lb.
Anyone have any experience/opinions on Husky Centerline system?

sllims wrote:
Thanks handye9, interesting concept. So, you need to raise the TT/TV when you tighten the chains?

Pretty much the same as with other hitches.

Step 1.

Trunion bar hitch - Lower the trailer coupler onto the ball and latch the coupler.

Andersen hitch - Lower the trailer coupler onto the ball and latch the coupler.

Step 2.
Trunion bar hitch - Use tongue jack to (lift) reduce weight on the coupler / ball.

Andersen hitch - Use tongue jack to (lift) reduce weight on the coupler / ball.

Step 3.

Trunion bar hitch - Hook chains into snap up brackets and use the bar to pull them into position.

Andersen hitch - Insert chain ends into the brackets (under "A" frame) and tighten the compression nuts. The hitch comes with a 1/2 inch drive socket, you add the ratchet or breaker bar. Easiiest with a long handled ratchet.

Step 4.

Trunion bar hitch - Crank tongue jack into travel position. If there is additional anti sway equipment, add it now.

Andersen hitch - Crank tongue jack into travel position.

Step 5.

Hook up safety chains and break away cable. Same for both.

Only differences are step 3 and anti sway part of step 4.

"I saw that Fastway flip-up jack. Looks like a good idea. is it fairly stable?"

Yes its stable. The jack shaft lowers into the Flip when tongue weight is applied and provides stability. You can briefly see this effect near the end of this video. http://rv101.tv/2013/01/10/how-to-install-a-fastway-flip-jack-foot/

You always have to raise the coupled TV/TT, that's how you put tension on the spring bars. How much tension you need will determine how high you need to raise the TV/TT. It comes down to how heavy the tongue weight is and what you're using for a TV. You need to concentrate on returning the front of the TV to or near it's original height.
As an FYI I had a 2010 F150 Max Tow and a TT with a 900-950lb TW. I had to raise the coupled TV/TT about 4-6" to get the spring bars seated. I was using an EQ with 1200lb bars. Don't get all hung up on how much you have to raise the TV/TT, it's common practice as it's how you put tension on the spring bars and transfer weight. If you're not lifting the TV/TT then you're not setup right.

Thanks handye9, interesting concept. So, you need to raise the TT/TV when you tighten the chains?

Maybe, you folks with the "V" nose trailers, should research the Andersen hitch. The main reason, I bought one, is because I had a ordered a Cougar model that had the "V" front. Due to a floorplan change, that order fell through, but, I already had the Andersen hitch.

With the Andersen, you still need to raise the truck / trailer combo, as with most WD hitches. No snap ups, or a bar, to hit the trailer nose. Chains are tightened with a nut down below the "A" frame. I use a ratchet to do mine.

Andersen also has built in sway control.

Andersen hitches are known to be a little weak in weight distribution, so, if you have a very heavy tongue weight, it may not work for you. For me, it's working with a 900 lb tongue weight.

WayneAt68044 Thanks, my trailer has about 1-1.5 inch space above the frame. FYI - For the future - Reese also makes a "bolt on " model that needs no clearance at all. #PR58305. Not sure which would be more secure, but I'll probably go with the clamp-on model just to make things easier.
I saw that Fastway flip-up jack. Looks like a good idea. is it fairly stable? It should give me all the height I need.

Sllims, the bracket isn't one I had seen before. Thanks for providing the info. The L brackets that my Equal-i-zer bar ends sit on tend to work loose over time as they are bolted onto the frame. Yours may be more secure as there is a bolt on top of the frame and more metal for the bolts to screw into. There is no room for anything above the frame on my trailer. In fact, I had to cut off the long end of the L bracket to raise the bracket high enough to achieve good weight distribution. Happy trailering!

Thanks for all the replies. Some things to think about. Seems that it shouldn't be much concern but the issue I really has was, what WayneAt63044 mentioned about how high the rig needs to be lifted until the chains can be attached. I don't want to buy this setup then find it's impractical to raise it that high. BTW Wayne, I am planning on using a "clamp-on" Reese hanger #RP58306. Nothing to flip up, just attach the chain.

I also have a Vcross (Vibe) but had to abandon my chain weight dist. hitch as the trailer body covered the A-frame and doesn't allow for any hitch/chain pulling above the A-frame. The body interferes with the lift pipe. Maybe there is something new out there since I purchased mine 2 years ago. Will the lift pipe hit the body when lifting? Even when lifting the coupled vehicles with the tongue jack, the lift rod is still needed sometimes. Much faster, too, as the jack provided by Forest River is sooo sloooow. A big help is also the Fastway Flip Jack Tongue Foot to the tongue jack. As delivered, our tongue jack wouldn't lift the tongue high enough to connect with the tow vehicle, needed several 4x4s under the jack. This is much safer. I'm using the manufacturer recommended Equali-i-zer 4 point WDH.