Just got my tongue weighed... :-) and found that I am close to the "bar rating" of the WD hitch. So the question is ... If you are at / near the rating boundary for your WD hitch (bars rated for 600lbs), is it better to move to the next rating (typically 800lbs) or will the significant difference become an issue in terms of "springiness" of the heavier bars? Will the lighter bar be a "safety" issue?

budwich wrote:Just got my tongue weighed... :-) and found that I am close to the "bar rating" of the WD hitch. So the question is ... If you are at / near the rating boundary for your WD hitch (bars rated for 600lbs), is it better to move to the next rating (typically 800lbs) or will the significant difference become an issue in terms of "springiness" of the heavier bars? Will the lighter bar be a "safety" issue?Bigger is not always better. Especially in this case. The bars generally need to match the load as closely as possible. They MUST bend when entering/exiting driveways or going over bumps etc.Too heavy a bar can actually damage the frame. Some manufacturers have ratings in their manuals specifying how heavy a bar can be used with different thickness frames.Now having said that, in SOME cases a slightly stronger or weaker bar can perform better. A lightly sprung TV sometimes will do better with a stronger bar, as it can somewhat make up for the TVs weak springs. There are other ways to accomplish the same thing such as air bags etc.But generally matching the bars to the TW will be the best way to go.

My tongue weight is 720 to 750 most of the time, and I use 1000# bars. I guess the general formula would tell me to go to 800# bars, but my WD dealer strongly suggested I go with 1000#. Works fine, and I'm glad I went heavier.Edit: I would be interested in trying 800# just to compare the two. As it is, I can only guess which is best...

I run a slightly heavier bar with my Reese Dual Cam system

Yeah, heavier bars. Blow the front shocks or bend the rear most axel on the trailer. A truck that has the springs capacity to carry the trailer is the best choice.

My tongue weight is only 420. I have 1000lb bars. I have weak suspension.Huntindog is right on with his reply...Had your tongue weighed??? That means nothing if weighed alone. As when you put on the ball and activate the WD, and when set properly, will take weight off the hitch. How much? Depends if set properly...Mine takes 80 lbs off the hitch and puts it on the trailer. And brings front end back to stock height...

WD Hitch ratings / boundaries | Good Sam Community

wmoses
Explorer
May 17, 2014
Tequila wrote:
Thi sis all a bit confuisuibgn to me. I have a 1 ton duaklly with superspings and a Torklift superhitch. I am picking up a trailer with an unloaded hitch weight of 550 lbs. I am thinking pof towing it without the equalizer bars for a day or 2 to test it out. I do not think I will need them, but I am wondering if putting them on with even minor tension will help sway. Curently the rear of the truck is about 3 inches higher than the front unloaded.

You'll not need weight distibution but you will need the anti-sway capabilities of the hitch. If you are convinced to take a test drive without the Equalizer, I suggest you make sure to go on the highway with some winds and ensure you experience 18-wheelers going both ways at highway speeds. I stongly suggest at all times having tongue weight be at least 10% of total trailer weight.

You have plenty truck for payload and towing capacity but sway is a resonance condition affecting directional stability of the trailer. The anti-sway device drops the resonance frequency (and amplitude) of the rig due to the articulating joint so that it is unlikely to be encountered during normal towing speeds.
beemerphile1
Explorer
May 18, 2014
What is the hitch rating? Many have a maximum of 500 without WD.
budwich
Explorer
May 18, 2014
Thanks for the replies / experiences / guidances. I changed over to 800 lb rate bars (plus shank etc). Ride seems to be a bit stiffer with less bounce. Dropped the height on the front by about 1/2 in (from before) while the rear remained about the same.

Hopefully, our first pull will be OK.... its not a very long distance (120 miles one way).
rwess
Explorer
May 18, 2014
I am getting a new 1200 lb/12k Equal-I-Zer this week. My trailer weighs about 9,000 lbs loaded. The Equal-I-Zer calculator said that I needed the 1400lb/14k hitch. I went with the 12k because I might be downsizing in a few years (I want to get a new Lance). I have been towing it with a Reese Dual Cam with 1,000 lb bars and 10k rating. I have never been happy with that hitch and it is 8 years old. This is my 3rd trailer that I have used it on since 2006. I realized that my current trailer was probably too much for this hitch, but I really have not pulled my big trailer that much with it. I used it on this camper because I already had the Reese hitch.

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