WD proper setup-bars-and level tow vehicle
I am using a vintage Suburban 4x4 towing a 19f Mallard around seeing the kids and sights. My Suburban is a k1500. 16" tires. The hitch is a 10k hitch installed after-the-fact when we bought it last ...
Forum Discussion
IMHO--yours may vary.
SUVs and pickup trucks often sit high in the rear and are designed to come down under load. The best handling will happen with front end weight about the same as when the trailer is not hitched, and the easiest way to check that is measure the front bumper. If the chains are adjusted to return normal weight to the front but the back has come down an inch or two, the front bumper will be up 1/8" to 1/4" which has been my goal. The tow vehicle looking level has never been important to me unless the rear is hanging very low indicating too much trailer. More important to me is normal weight back on the front. If the front has come down to less than unhitched, it is too tight with danger of bending the receiver. If the trailer is not level the only way to adjust is raise or lower the ball mount on the shank. Reese says no less than 5 chain links between the bars and the pull-up bracket. Stop in a sharp turn some time to see how tight those chains can get. The ball mount head is usually designed to tilt to change the length of the chains when front axle weight is back to normal. WD bars are usually labeled with a weight rating--Reese says you can use theirs down to half of the rating.
SUVs and pickup trucks often sit high in the rear and are designed to come down under load. The best handling will happen with front end weight about the same as when the trailer is not hitched, and the easiest way to check that is measure the front bumper. If the chains are adjusted to return normal weight to the front but the back has come down an inch or two, the front bumper will be up 1/8" to 1/4" which has been my goal. The tow vehicle looking level has never been important to me unless the rear is hanging very low indicating too much trailer. More important to me is normal weight back on the front. If the front has come down to less than unhitched, it is too tight with danger of bending the receiver. If the trailer is not level the only way to adjust is raise or lower the ball mount on the shank. Reese says no less than 5 chain links between the bars and the pull-up bracket. Stop in a sharp turn some time to see how tight those chains can get. The ball mount head is usually designed to tilt to change the length of the chains when front axle weight is back to normal. WD bars are usually labeled with a weight rating--Reese says you can use theirs down to half of the rating.
