Weight Distribution Hitch Value
Hi. Looking at a 2004 1500 Chevy Tahoe to pull a 6500 lb rv. Weight capacity for its gear ratio is 7500 lbs max. However, on the hitch it says 12,000 lbs weight distributing. Now...I was told that usi...
Forum Discussion
There is some good information in this thread so far - but also some partial answers and some plain opinion. Here's a methodical approach to determining what you can tow with which vehicle (part of something I wrote up on the Silverado/Sierra forum a while back to explain how to go about the calculations).
Don't equate the ratings for my truck with yours - there have been significant changes in the build and ratings over the years - this is just an example. Tahoes, 1/2 ton pickups and older vehicles will have much lower capacities than cited below - but the math still works.
GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating - truck plus all cargo; 10,000# for my truck)
GCWR (gross combined weight rating - truck + trailer and all cargo; 24,500# for my truck)
GAWR FRT (gross axle weight rating, front... not so important here, but 5,200 for my truck)
GAWR RR (gross axle weight rating, rear; 6,200 for my truck)
Tire max load ratings; 6,390 for my SRW load range E rear tires
Manufacturer's conventional hitch max tow rating (13,000 for my truck), and Manufacturer's conventional hitch max tongue weight (1,500 w/o weight distributing on my Class V hitch)
The next thing is to load the stuff (and people) in your truck that you would normally haul camping (make sure you have a full tank of fuel) and head for the nearest CAT scales. Get separate front and rear axle weights with everyone in the truck. Subtract the total weight of the truck from the GCWR and you have your max towing capacity. Subtract the actual rear axle weight from the GAWR RR and you have the amount you have left over for tongue weight. Make sure nothing exceeds the max load rating for the tires, either. The final numbers for my truck are: actual weight - 7,520; actual rear axle weight - 3,080. That leaves me 3,120 on the rear axle (and 3,310 for the tires), but the hitch is only rated for 1,500 tongue weight. For a travel trailer, I would stick with that. Subtracting the actual weight of the truck from the rated GCWR leaves me 16,980 - but, again, the hitch is only rated for 13,000, so I'll stick with that for a TT, as well (would have to with a fifth wheel to use the full 16,980).
Going through this process will tell you what the frame, suspension, cooling systems and brakes will safely handle - but it doesn't tell you how much fun the rig will be to drive in the mountains/on steeper grades or with a significant head wind. These are all functions of the engine and transmission combination. The LAST thing you want is to have the tail wag the dog or not be able to stop in an emergency situation or going down a steep grade. Also, depending on the state, you can get an expensive ticket for towing over the manufacturer's rated limits for the truck. However, the horror stories I've read about this on the RV forums seemed to mostly be in the Northeast. Better to err on the side of caution. As my first flying instructor used to say (early 70s), "There are old pilots and there are bold pilots - but there are no old, bold pilots...
I hope this helps.
Don't equate the ratings for my truck with yours - there have been significant changes in the build and ratings over the years - this is just an example. Tahoes, 1/2 ton pickups and older vehicles will have much lower capacities than cited below - but the math still works.
GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating - truck plus all cargo; 10,000# for my truck)
GCWR (gross combined weight rating - truck + trailer and all cargo; 24,500# for my truck)
GAWR FRT (gross axle weight rating, front... not so important here, but 5,200 for my truck)
GAWR RR (gross axle weight rating, rear; 6,200 for my truck)
Tire max load ratings; 6,390 for my SRW load range E rear tires
Manufacturer's conventional hitch max tow rating (13,000 for my truck), and Manufacturer's conventional hitch max tongue weight (1,500 w/o weight distributing on my Class V hitch)
The next thing is to load the stuff (and people) in your truck that you would normally haul camping (make sure you have a full tank of fuel) and head for the nearest CAT scales. Get separate front and rear axle weights with everyone in the truck. Subtract the total weight of the truck from the GCWR and you have your max towing capacity. Subtract the actual rear axle weight from the GAWR RR and you have the amount you have left over for tongue weight. Make sure nothing exceeds the max load rating for the tires, either. The final numbers for my truck are: actual weight - 7,520; actual rear axle weight - 3,080. That leaves me 3,120 on the rear axle (and 3,310 for the tires), but the hitch is only rated for 1,500 tongue weight. For a travel trailer, I would stick with that. Subtracting the actual weight of the truck from the rated GCWR leaves me 16,980 - but, again, the hitch is only rated for 13,000, so I'll stick with that for a TT, as well (would have to with a fifth wheel to use the full 16,980).
Going through this process will tell you what the frame, suspension, cooling systems and brakes will safely handle - but it doesn't tell you how much fun the rig will be to drive in the mountains/on steeper grades or with a significant head wind. These are all functions of the engine and transmission combination. The LAST thing you want is to have the tail wag the dog or not be able to stop in an emergency situation or going down a steep grade. Also, depending on the state, you can get an expensive ticket for towing over the manufacturer's rated limits for the truck. However, the horror stories I've read about this on the RV forums seemed to mostly be in the Northeast. Better to err on the side of caution. As my first flying instructor used to say (early 70s), "There are old pilots and there are bold pilots - but there are no old, bold pilots...
I hope this helps.
