Weight distribution system

Yes. Get a weight distribution hitch with integral sway. I have an Equal-i-zer Sway Control Hitch and highly recommend it.

Westsidebob wrote:
Hello all, I'm new to the forum, it looks very helpful. I have a question about pulling with a F-250. We shopped today for a new rv, thinking about a 32ft bumper pull. The dealership is trying to sell us a weight distribution system and a sway bar. Do I need a weight distribution system? Do I need a sway bar? The trailer is 7765 pounds unloaded, and a dry hitch weight of 780lbs. I'm thinking I don't need the weight distribution, but maybe a sway bar? Thanks for any help!

I'd say YES you will need a WD system, even with your F250. The dealer is being honest with you, not trying to sell you something you don't need.

First, the "empty" tongue weight is likely to become around 1200+lbs once your loaded up. 2 batteries + propane will add almost 200lbs. Look at your reciever, you might even be over the Weight carrying capacity of the reciever once your loaded up.

At 7800lbs empty, you will likely be push 9500-10,000 loaded up.

And with a 32 ft trailer, yes you really should have a good a sway control system.

1000lbs on hitch I will say have a look at its rating a weight distributing hitch a good idear most wood say go with sway bar of som sort I don't use one.
Frank.

Yes, you should have both a WD and a Sway Bar setup.

You can tow without one 90% of the time. It's for the other 10% of the time that you'll REALLY need both that you need to be worried about!

WoodGlue

yes, you do need a WD! we use one with a 31 ft, dry wt is 5300.

Short answer---YES!

Yes and yes. Your hitch receiver is probably only rated at 500 pounds without weight distribution and 1,000 pounds with weight distribution.

Read your owner's manual and look for a label on the receiver.

If I were you, I'd go to a scale and determine your actual payload capacity by subtracting the actual wt. from the GVWR on the door jamb sticker. We have an F250 and the actual payload capacity is 1800 lbs which is much less than what the figure on the sticker says. I would also weigh your trailer when you get it and find the actual tongue wt. and GVW. You want to ensure your WDH bars are the correct rating and often the dry tongue wt is way less than actual.

If you have over 1200 lbs of tongue wt., you want to consider the weight of passengers, pets, groceries and other camping stuff in the bed. That can easily add 400-500 lbs or more. Some say it doesn't matter if you overload your TV on payload or axle ratings, but I'm not one. If you really have closer to 1500 lbs of tongue wt., you could be overloaded.

If you tow without a WDH, your front end could end up being a little light and may not handle as well. You don't want to find out the hard way in a panic maneuver or stop. Being overloaded on top of that won't help either.

Technically you may not really need a WDH hitch for that truck and trailer, but it would make for a much nicer and potentially safer driving experience. We have a Reese DC WDH towing a 29' trailer just under 7,000 lbs. I wouldn't dream of towing without the WDH. The truck drives straight as an arrow on the freeway and there is no sway from wind gusts or passing trucks.

krobbe wrote:
Yes. Get a weight distribution hitch with integral sway. I have an Equal-i-zer Sway Control Hitch and highly recommend it.

x2!!! I've been using an Equal-i-zer since 2008. This is my second trailer and still using it.

Larry

I have a '11 F-250 with a 35 ft tip to tail trailer at 7,200 dry and just under 9k loaded. We use the equalizer WD hitch and it works great. Have towed without for short distances but can tell a difference. Wouldn't want to go without it for longer trips. Worth the $.