itguy08 wrote:
budwich wrote:
actually, the part that's bad is the part about "If the 120V uses the ground as the neutral"... that's the big no no.
Bad wording on my part - what I meant was in a failure scenario where the neutral is not working and the ground becomes the neutral (as its designed to) wouldn't you be sending 120v to the 12v side?
Since the 12V BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL is connected to the FRAME AND THE 120V SAFETY GROUND is connected to the SAME FRAME, all 12V stuff will have the same ground potential.
That IS how a RV is wire together.
The only issue I see is the OP decided to put a 12V DC negative wire into the 120V side of the converter and connect it to the 120V GROUND BUSS BAR terminals.
The 12V negative wire is WHITE, 120V ground wiring is supposed to be only GREEN (covered) OR BARE wires..
Placing a white wire on the ground buss bar is a potentially confusing situation that may lead to someone eventually MOVING the 12V negative wire to the 120V NEUTRAL BUSS BAR in the future!!!
NEC also insists that there is a PHYSICAL separation between 120V and low voltage 12V.. That is why the 120V section has a separator between the 120V breaker panel and the 12V fuse panel and ALL 120V is in the breaker section and ALL 12V wiring is in the FUSE section..
OP VIOLATED the 120V VS low voltage 12V separation by placing a 12V wire INSIDE the 120V breaker section of the converter and making matters worse, a WHITE wire connected to the ground BUSS bar.
NEC does have different rules on handling 120V vs 12V in how the wiring is done.
As I mentioned before, OP NEEDS to disconnect and move the 12V negative wire OUTSIDE the 120V side (breaker panel side) and find the 12V negative pigtail (all low voltage white wires connected together in a bundle) that should be BEHIND THE CONVERTER in order to make the proper connection..