What Would YOU Do?

It's a fairly long story, but I'll try to keep to the essence.

Coupla years ago we decided to upgrade from a popup to a travel trailer. Realized fairly quickly we'd need to upgrade tow vehicle as well. Decided our first few years of TT would only require about 5000 lb towing capacity. Love Toyotas; decades-long loyalty to that brand. Don't like pickups. Decided on a 4Runner. Has 5000lb towing and 500lb tongue-weight capability. Found one used at a really good price from a private owner. Made the purchase. That was summer 2015.

A year ago decided on a TT. Weighs in at 4300lb loaded. Tongue weight a bit north of 650lb. Got Equalizer weight distribution hitch (has combination sway control).

4Runner tows great. No problems.

Started coming across comments on different forums about questions regarding 4Runner's factory-installed hitch. Some older models have a manual stating that no weight distribution hitches should be used. Turns out the factory-installed hitch receiver just bolts onto a rear crossmember rather than being a one-piece side-to-side full frame-mounted hitch.

Some folks have dealt with this by removing the factory-installed hitch and replacing it with an after-market full frame-mounted hitch. However, there are NONE of these available for the 2010 model that I own. There really are none.

Contacted Toyota factory directly to ask about this. Told them my manual is not one that prohibits use of weight-distribution. Did they make an engineering change? Answer back from them: do not use weight distribution with the 2010, even though the manual does't state this.

Found a frame and collision shop who would "take a look" at the situation and see what could be done. Would they be able to fabricate a full frame-mounted hitch? They looked it over and recommended welding that factory-installed hitch in place. They think that would take care of any potential issues. Only thing is, they're not really knowledgeable about weight-distribution hitches. I had to educate them about where the torque stresses are.

So I'm down to this: I see three choices.
1. Do nothing and just stop using the weight distribution system.
2. Have the factory hitch welded in place and go back to business as usual.
3. Trade the vehicle for something better designed to use what I have.

What would you do and why? (Or are there more choices that I could consider?)

I should add that I already have a pretty good idea of what I'm going to do, so this is mostly an exercise in listening to a variety of perspectives that maybe I haven't thought of.

Thanks. Have at it...

-Speak

Tow Vehicles

SpeakEasy
Explorer
Feb 27, 2017
brulaz wrote:
Our trailers have always been over 12% TW loaded.
Usually closer to 15%. (But we pack heavy for extended stays in Florida.)

With that heavy a trailer, you will want to spend some time at your local CAT scales. To watch your rear GAWR as well as GVWR.

And we needed LT-E tires and an upgraded suspension to feel comfortable towing our 8500# trailer with a 2011 F150 Ecoboost.

I'm not towing anything anywhere near those weights. I'm just saying that the decision between the 2012 with 1900 lb more towing capacity and the 2013 with 180 lb more payload was an easy decision once I realized that I'd never be able to use that extra towing capacity if I ever up-size the trailer. As is so often the case, payload is the first limit you run into.

-Speak
brulaz
Explorer
Feb 27, 2017
Our trailers have always been over 12% TW loaded.
Usually closer to 15%. (But we pack heavy for extended stays in Florida.)

With that heavy a trailer, you will want to spend some time at your local CAT scales. To watch your rear GAWR as well as GVWR.

And we needed LT-E tires and an upgraded suspension to feel comfortable towing our 8500# trailer with a 2011 F150 Ecoboost.
SpeakEasy
Explorer
Feb 26, 2017
brulaz wrote:
SpeakEasy wrote:

...
estimated tongue weight - at 12%: 1440 lb.
...

A 12K trailer?

Correction: 1152 tongue weight on a 9600 lb trailer.

Thanks for getting that red pencil out for me.

-Speak
brulaz
Explorer
Feb 26, 2017
SpeakEasy wrote:

...
estimated tongue weight - at 12%: 1440 lb.
...

A 12K trailer?
SpeakEasy
Explorer
Feb 26, 2017
atreis wrote:
...Payload vs. towing capacity - keep in mind that in order to tow a heavier trailer, you also need more payload for the greater tongue weight ... The relative differences between these two options are probably not as big as they first look. (You might not be able to actually use the higher towing capacity of the ecoboost due to the need for more cargo capacity to support the tongue weight.)

Yeah; this ended up being a big factor in our final decision. I realized that if we ever took full advantage of the extra towing capacity of the 2012 our tongue weight would eat up virtually all of our payload. (Payload of the 2012: 1550 lb; towing capacity: 9600 lb; estimated tongue weight - at 12%: 1440 lb.) That and a number of other factors tilted the decision meter toward the 2013.

Interestingly, a factor that has nothing to do with towing and payload weights ended up being a big plus for the 2013: it has the front bucket seats and center console instead of that fold-down 40/20/40 bench seat design. We both found that center seat irritating, in spite of the fact that it would have given us room to bring along one more grandchild. (But I maintained that 4 children at once is beyond my carrying capacity in terms of patience and generous love. I think she agreed.)

-Speak
Grit_dog
Navigator
Feb 25, 2017
Sweet. I had a 2011 5.0 F150 and I believe that combo was as good a pulling setup as the 2 F250 6.2s I had after it. That's a solid setup, congrats!
SpeakEasy
Explorer
Feb 25, 2017
Well, the drama is over. (I hope.)

I just picked up the 2013 F-150 Super Crew Cab short bed 5.0L V8.

Hoping for the best.

This has been quite a ride. Thanks for participating.

(I'll get around to changing my sig soon.)

-Speak
Mike_Up
Explorer
Feb 25, 2017
It's reported that some of the 2013s still had the condensation issues on the 3.5L Ecoboost as well as the vacuum pump issues. Never had a good fix as they were just putting stick on plastic pieces on the intercooler to cause it to be less efficient at cooling. This stops some of the condensation along with the computer updates to change the way that cyclinder 2 fires (where the problem happens).

I would feel much more comfortable buying a 2014 or 2016 F150 3.5L Ecoboost over the previous years.

2015 was the first model year which did have some issues worked out in 2016.

2017 is the first year of the completely new, twin injection 3.5L Ecoboost. This new engine fixed previous issues with carbon build up by offering more fuel injectors to wash carbon away that Direct Injection doesn't do.

I also like the more consistent performance of the 5.0L with the better fuel economy when towing and none towing. The 3.5L Ecoboost is a fuel hog even when not towing.
atreis
Explorer
Feb 25, 2017
I'd go for the ecoboost personally - good torque and better mileage when not towing. That might not seem all that important now, but gas prices are pretty volatile.

Payload vs. towing capacity - keep in mind that in order to tow a heavier trailer, you also need more payload for the greater tongue weight ... The relative differences between these two options are probably not as big as they first look. (You might not be able to actually use the higher towing capacity of the ecoboost due to the need for more cargo capacity to support the tongue weight.)
nickdarr
Explorer
Feb 24, 2017
I agree with getting a new TV. Something bad happens and you will live with that forever. You may also find towing easier with a heavier TV.

Forum Discussion

What Would YOU Do?

About Travel Trailer Group

Related Content