wheel bearings

Jayco23FB wrote:

Peg Leg wrote:
As stated above, you need to know your starting condition new or used. Once established your schedule is up to you. Seals that sit can dry or harden. A bad seal can cause grease to leak into the brake area or externally onto the axle where you can see it.

I just redid mine and found that a seal was beginning to leak internally. I had replaced everything, dust covers to spring hangars, 2 yrs ago.

A new one for me this year is having the grease turn to fluid and run out. I used a synthetic grease for the first time 2 yrs ago. The hubs have never been hot. Since I still had some on hand I used it again this time but I'm going to keep a closer check. I'll pull the dust caps and if I notice any sign of this happening again I will discontinue using the synthetic.

What synthetic did you use? I switch to synthetic myself this year.

Valvoline I think.

Peg Leg wrote:
As stated above, you need to know your starting condition new or used. Once established your schedule is up to you. Seals that sit can dry or harden. A bad seal can cause grease to leak into the brake area or externally onto the axle where you can see it.

I just redid mine and found that a seal was beginning to leak internally. I had replaced everything, dust covers to spring hangars, 2 yrs ago.

A new one for me this year is having the grease turn to fluid and run out. I used a synthetic grease for the first time 2 yrs ago. The hubs have never been hot. Since I still had some on hand I used it again this time but I'm going to keep a closer check. I'll pull the dust caps and if I notice any sign of this happening again I will discontinue using the synthetic.

What synthetic did you use? I switch to synthetic myself this year.

As stated above, you need to know your starting condition new or used. Once established your schedule is up to you. Seals that sit can dry or harden. A bad seal can cause grease to leak into the brake area or externally onto the axle where you can see it.

I just redid mine and found that a seal was beginning to leak internally. I had replaced everything, dust covers to spring hangars, 2 yrs ago.

A new one for me this year is having the grease turn to fluid and run out. I used a synthetic grease for the first time 2 yrs ago. The hubs have never been hot. Since I still had some on hand I used it again this time but I'm going to keep a closer check. I'll pull the dust caps and if I notice any sign of this happening again I will discontinue using the synthetic.

I pack mine every other year adjust my brakes every year.
Works for me.

So did you buy it new or is a new to you trailer?

If you bought it new and you have never done the bearings then I would do them then you will know how they have been wearing.

If you bought the trailer used and don't know if they have ever been done then I would do them so you that you will know.

Either way if you do them it won't be on your mind this year when you are traveling wondering if they are ok.

Everyone has their own maintenance schedules that work for them... I do mine every other year now. For the first couple of years I did them each year, but found that every other year works best for me.. ;)

I don't think it's the actual miles that matter.. It's the time they sit idle and the conditions they are "idle" in...

After 6 years, I'd say I'd at least want to look at them just for my own peace of mind..

Good luck!

Mitch

Modern vehicles do not have greaseable wheel bearings for the most part, so people don't think about it. I have replaced my sealed wheel bearings with greaseable bearings on the front of my TV and from here forward will be repacking the TV and TT every 2 years.

My TT is going on its 3rd season and I pulled 1 of the hubs off a few weeks ago and was shocked at the shape of the grease and bearings with only 2 full seasons and approx 7K miles on them. I have all new Timken bearings that will be going in sometime the first two weeks of June before any long trips. They where not shot, but the grease was overly dark and the rollers where very loose in the cage, not what I normally see on good bearings.

For reference my Al-Ko owners manual says to repack every 12K or 12 months, but that can be extended with proper use of the ez-lube hubs.

First I agree with Bull Rider "It's your choice and your family" and I would like to add its your trip ruined and you and your family back home late to jobs, school and other obligations. I have a slight issue with the "Do you pack your tow vehicle bearings that often"? thought. I drive my TV often and feel/hear the vibration, pulling and smell the brakes/grease in the TV bearings. because I'm in it and feel it and how it acts all year long.

We burned up the inner bearing, seal and both shoes in 40 miles after adding grease in the E-Z lube axels because the hub felt slightly warmer (but could still keep our hand on it) to the touch than the other 3 in the first 50 miles of the trip. We never smelled the brakes, felt the bearing or saw smoke until we stopped for fuel.

I just inspected and repacked mine after 4 years (approximately 19,000 miles). The bearings were in great shape. The brakes needed a lot of adjustment, easy to do it all at the same time. I also replaced all four tires. Aside from the brakes, I do not believe this is a yearly maintenance thing.

Well, I had never found any issues with the wheel bearings. I would pull them, they looked good, grease was good, races were good, all was good.

Then I found this the last time I pulled the hubs.



The chocolate pudding look is caused by water intrusion, and it emulsifies the grease into something that will not perform as needed.

So, while it may seem like it's not necessary, you never really know until you get in there an verify.

It's your choice and your family.