Wheelbase and weight distributing hitches

deleted.

TomG2 wrote:
The front axle weight thing is a holdover from the days when we used station wagons and sedans for tow vehicles. The objective was to make each axle share some of the load. GM realizes that a 4,000 pound front axle can lose a few hundred pounds, about the weight of Uncle Phil, and not become dangerously light as some fear. Other brands are making similar discoveries.

Nope it's still the same with the new trucks, and SUVs. Raise the front end too high, and you can't drive it. The only change is that now. The just tell you to return at least half of what you took off. Before it was all, or more.

In truth. ONE chain length, Can be the difference between a comfortable tow, and a white knuckle tow.

The equal-I-zer has has an adjustable hitch head that needs to be set at a specific height in relation to your TT's hitch when the TT Is sitting level. Then you set up for weight dist as terryallen described. I would check you instructions, or find them on their website and see if your close before starting. If not, I'd have a shop set your ball height etc for you as the torque requirements are very high. I had to do the same thing when I went from my f150 to my f250. Good luck.

Thanks, this is very helpful. It gives me a way to measure and get some idea of what is happening. I suspect it won't be much since the truck weighs 8,000 lbs and the trailer tongue weight is 1,000 lbs. The front axle has 5,300 lbs on it with the truck alone and just my wife and I are in it. However, it makes sense to shoot for the best possible load balance.

The front axle weight thing is a holdover from the days when we used station wagons and sedans for tow vehicles. The objective was to make each axle share some of the load. GM realizes that a 4,000 pound front axle can lose a few hundred pounds, about the weight of Uncle Phil, and not become dangerously light as some fear. Other brands are making similar discoveries.

I have never heard of using wheel base as any factor in setting up a weight distributing system. Weight is what they deal with and is pretty much solely the criteria for setting up the system. Weight relates to the attitude of the tow vehicle when hitched up with trailer and truck EVEN (not necessarily level). Different manufacturers have differing instructions about how the hitched truck stance should be when correctly set up. If you don't have an owners manual for your tow vehicle see your manufacturer for instructions for set up.
Good luck / Skip

Terryallan has it right. I used same process he describes with good results. Only thing I'd add is to make sure trailer is either level or very slightly nose-down when hitched.

Easiest way to set it up. With the trailer unhooked. Measure the front and rear, from the wheel wells to the top of the tire. Then drop the trailer onto the ball. Measure again. (write all the measurements down) Then attach, and adjust the WDH bars until you have returned the front wheel well to remove at least 1/2 of the height it gained when you dropped the TT onto the ball. Personally. I return the front to the unhooked measurement.

Doing this will return lost weight to the front steering axle, and in so doing. Return steering control, and help prevent sway. A raised front end, is a light front end, and a light front end reduces control. In other words. It will wobble all over the road.

Word of caution. NEVER raise the rear wheel well HIGHER than it was before you dropped the trailer onto it.

Weight distribution is more than just taking some weight off of the rear axle, it's also about vehicle control. Adding some of that weight back onto the front axle will improve steering and handling performance. Wheelbase is probably more of a concern with sway control and stability than weight distribution. I've always set my weight distribution bar links to where is requires a bit of effort with the cheater bar to lock them into place before putting much weight on the ball at all.