When and what to caulk
I have a 2012 AF1150 I bought brand new and use several times a year. It is stored under a large metal carport built specifically for that reason so it has very little, if any exposure to sun. I kno...
Forum Discussion
To start, campers are design with seals (sealing compound) between overlapping joints and caulk should not be used unless you come to corners.
Since all campers are build to leak, owners revert to caulking or ethernabond as the only remedy without taking new camper apart and doing it right.
In your shoes I would do the pressure test with a blower, what has several pictorials on the forum.
Main point is that coulk is not only cheap band-aid on unhealed wound, but also is not lasting remedy.
My 2012 camper being top of the class model already has lot of dryrot damage, regardless aluminium frame.
I bought it with damage already, but it is a disease. It never stops.
After years of having camper in moist climate, we brought it to Las Vegas, where after 3 month of dry heat, lot of things got warped.
Since all campers are build to leak, owners revert to caulking or ethernabond as the only remedy without taking new camper apart and doing it right.
In your shoes I would do the pressure test with a blower, what has several pictorials on the forum.
Main point is that coulk is not only cheap band-aid on unhealed wound, but also is not lasting remedy.
My 2012 camper being top of the class model already has lot of dryrot damage, regardless aluminium frame.
I bought it with damage already, but it is a disease. It never stops.
After years of having camper in moist climate, we brought it to Las Vegas, where after 3 month of dry heat, lot of things got warped.
