where to measure to determine if trailer is level

First, make sure your level(s) reads correctly. Lots of them don't. Easy to do. Place your level on a straight surface and see where the bubble is. The flip sideways. It should read the same. Then flip end over end. Again, it should read the same.
When I got our new to us camper home, I leveled to the existing stick-on levels. When I checked the reefer, it was off. Same with floor. So I got out a 6', a 3', and a 12" level. I measured off the reefer, stove, table, floor and bed. Got it where I wanted it, then screwed on one level I can see in the mirror for side to side, and another on the side for fore and aft. I could move the stick-on levels, so I took them off.

{tpc} wrote:
We have a level stuck on the side of the trailer and one on the back. They were placed after a level on the floor just inside of the door was level...

We have one level on the power jack head for front/rear leveling and on the front of the rig for side to side.

I leveled mine on the floor of the freezing compartment, then put one of those curved levels on the front of the TT that I could see in the rear view mirror. then can use tongue jack to level bubble in that same curved level.
bumpy

I use just check two doors in the trailer, one is a pocket door and the other is on hinges. When both stay in place, I know that the trailer is level.

I usually level front to back off the frame or if I'm not feeling lazy the inside floor. Side to side I use the bubble level on the front of the TT and use a level on the frame to double check. I also acknowledge that things twist and my method is not be perfect, but neither is my level.

goducks10 wrote:
Mount one of these on the front of the TT.
https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Wheel-Masters/WM6700.html

Yep that is what I use. I set the trailer up when I first got it using 4' levels and made sure trhe refer was perfect. Then I installed this level along with 2 smaller levels for the refer. Makes it easy now.

If my rear bumper is level, every thing is also.

I place a 4' level on the bumper, place blocks on the low side to determine how many I will need, drive onto that number of blocks. With gravel or dirt, I error on the highside, assuming they will settle.

Can't do that with stick on levels.

I then place a 2' level on the tongue for front to back.

Little level in the fridge normally ends up somewhere in or near the circle.

I have those stick on levels, but I never trust them. Even though they tend to show level when I am done.

dnhx wrote:
This is my first trailer, I understand the importance of leveling the trailer. We did buy some of the lego blocks for under the wheels. I am wondering where do I put the level to determine if the trailer is level? Do I put it on the frame or maybe the side wall of the trailer, or perhaps the floor of the trailer? Once I get it level, I plan on placing a couple of the stick on levels on the front corner of the trailer.

Thank you

Don

You will get all kinds of advice on this subject. You are on the right track, the trailer was built in reference to the frame. Carefully level the trailer side to side and front to back without using the stabilizer jacks. It is best to do this on a rather level surface to begin with. Shim under the tires as necessary for side to side and use the tongue jack for front to rear. Use a large level on the FRAME checking behind and in front of the axles. Get the best average you can.

Now you can stick on four levels on opposite corners. (front, left, rear and right) Now you can check for frame twist as well as level. Yes, using the stabilizer jacks can twist the frame easily when jacked too hard on a corner. You can install the cheap stick-on levels, but first remove the stupid foam tape and use 3M VHB tape so they won't move.

If you find your appliances too far out of level, (and you won't) fix the appliance.

We have a level stuck on the side of the trailer and one on the back. They were placed after a level on the floor just inside of the door was level.

Are they perfect? No. But they are close enough. We go to a alot of parks without concrete pads so the lego blocks aren't always perfect either. We actually keep the tongue up a little higher to help with sleeping, since level seems to make us feel like our heads are a little lower than our feet lol.

I've been using rear bumper and the floor. Although I don't try to get perfectly level front to back. Close (about half a bubble), so I make sure the condensation from the A/C flows to the rear of the trailer and drains off properly.

I didn't/don't know if the gutters are level with the box, or if they slope one direction or another. It seemed like the first time I setup, they were level and condensation wasn't draining off fast enough for me. Does anyone else setup with this as a consideration?

Mike