Forum Discussion

marpel's avatar
marpel
Explorer
Jul 08, 2013

Where's the logic

I am currently in the process of replacing/greasing the bearings on our travel trailer, and have just finished the first two wheels and am putting them back on the trailer. At least I was until I discovered the castle nut requires a 37mm size socket. I have been to five auto parts/tool vendors so far and am discovering that 37mm is so rare that no-one carries that size. 36 is too small, 38 is too large and the SAE equivalents do not work either. 1 1/2 is too sloppy and the next step down won't fit.

Why in heavens would a North American (Crossroads in the US) trailer manufacturer suggest the bearings be tended to every 6000 miles (almost one year for us) and make a part that is crucial to the operation in such an unusual size? They also demand the nut be torqued to a specific torque, so a large crescent wrench can't even be used. I suppose if I was experienced enough in torquing stuff that I could guesstimate with a crescent wrench, but I am not and I know some have/will suggest a method of doing this without using a torque wrench, but I prefer to follow the manufacturer''s recommendation if possible. How bizarre.

Anyway, anyone know where I can find a socket of this size (in the Vancouver Canada area), that I don't have to order and wait for off the net. I am scheduled to leave the Vancouver area for a long trip, in three days and I'm sitting here with two wheels off the trailer.

Thanks in advance,

Marv

15 Replies

  • lanerd wrote:
    I have always tightened the castle nut down until it stops, and then backing it off to the next notch where the tang washer (or cotter pin) will fit into the castle nut. Over tightening the nut can lead to the spindles and bearings overheating, which can damage them. I don't think I've ever heard of "torquing" wheel bearing castle nuts before.

    Ron


    X2...I've never heard of torqueing a wheel bearing castle nut to a specific point before. I've repacked or replaced many trailer bearings in my day, just seat the nut than back it off a little.
  • I have always tightened the castle nut down until it stops, and then backing it off to the next notch where the tang washer (or cotter pin) will fit into the castle nut. Over tightening the nut can lead to the spindles and bearings overheating, which can damage them. I don't think I've ever heard of "torquing" wheel bearing castle nuts before.

    Ron
  • This may sound like a silly question, but if you don't have the proper wrench, how did you get them off?
  • Your not going to make it very tight so just use a pair Channel locks or a Crescent wrench. The exact torque is not that important as much as it is to seat the bearing and then loosen the nut and then re-tighten it so all play is removed.
    The biggest mistake people make is leaving the bearing too loose.