Which Crossover or suv is best for towing??

Towing a Camplite 21BHS (max weight 5000 lbs) with a 2009 Ram 1500 (quad cab), 4.7L V-8. Very happy with it so far.

Toyota Highlander V6 with tow package.

Thanks everyone!! we understand about full trailers weight vs/ empty etc. What we really need to know is,,, what are you driving,,what are you pulling and how satisfied w/ gas and reliability. thanks!;)

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When investigating Tow Package "inclusions", do look at their other mandatory options. GM is known for their "cascading" mandatory items as well. Take for example the Towing Package on their GM mini-vans (which they no longer sell). If one orders the factory Towing Package (BTW - doesn't even include the hitch), one must also upgrade their tires as well. That's $650 "cascade" inclusion even before they add their Trailering package. Did I also mention that GM mini-van comes with air shocks (they call load levellers). Air shocks don't even come close to air bag technology. Simple low grade air shocks. Air shocks leak and their compressor tends to wear out. For me, I simply bought Timbren SES units at fraction of the cost, and installed them myself. I installed my own brake controller, my own 7-pin connector, my own hitch. And, my own Hayden ATF Aux cooler for 5,000 lbs - spaced 1" away from the factory rad. With this gapping, I can wrap this rad in winter months - so it doesn't get too cold. Many factory aux coolers are "sucked tight" against the AC rad - which holds dirt, rubs the other rad and gets too cold during winter months. I install the aux ATF rad properly - the way it should be installed.

Seriously…. Before Clicking "include trailering package" on any factory website, have a serious look at their fine print. Some trailering packages come with "low grade / old school" technology (like air shocks), some don't come with a Hitch and some don't even come with a 7-pin connector. And, some companies enforce "cascade" inclusions within their Tow Package selection as well. And when they install the items, their quality is like "slap it in to make the money and run away" quality.

And yes, all Trailers that can accept a WD System should always use a WD system. And, their bars are sized properly as well. Some trailers (like most utility and boats) cannot accept a WDH. Thus, reason for Timbren SES units in the tow vehicle's rear. And yes, Timbren SES and WD Systems can work together….

Back to OP: In my previous years, I towed "on the upper weight edge" of my TT and my Tow Vehicle's number. After coming back from a trip, I pulled away from a stop light (NO trailer connected) and all of sudden BANG. The transmission went. Limped it back to my Transmission specialist, he tore it apart and said all its inner seals where squeezed out - like someone was towing a 7,000 lbs trailer. He then explained that if one wants to pull a 5,000 lbs trailer, they get a vehicle that's rated for 7,000 lbs. And if pulling 3,500 lbs, get vehicle that's rated to pull 5,000 lbs trailer. Thus, having extra power (and under its MAX stress loads) for steep hills and/or strong head wind. When picking a future Tow Vehicle, do keep this always go +1 next size up vehicle in mind as well. With +1 size up, less stress on your Tow Vehicle and less white knuckles as well…

APT wrote:

spike99 wrote:

If buying new from dealer, I never ask for factory Tow Package "inclusion". They charge way too much. For me, I simply add my own ATF Aux cooler, add my own Timbren SES units, add my own Brake Controller and add my own Trailer hitch. And, I install at fraction of their selling price.

I do not agree with at at all. In fact, it's often far cheaper and more reliable to get the OEM's most cpaable towing pacakge. Anywhere from $200-500 MSRP for the package that usually includes receiver ($150-$250), trans cooler ($50), 7-pin trailer wiring ($80-$150), and sometimes better gearing ($500-$3000), all factory backed and already done.

Also, rear suspension "help" should not be used for bumper pull trailers. They often make WDH adjustment more difficult as well as mask overloaded rear axle and payload.

Back to OP: Towing any high walled RV is a lot of work as the aerodynamics are so poor. You are pulling two sheets of plywood through the air at 65mph. Ever wave you hand out the window at 65mph and feel how strong the wind is? Your tow vehicle needs power. That's why almost every gas engine towing any high walled RV gets 8-11mpg. For most people that RV for recreation less than 2000 miles per year towing, that's fine. For those that travel across the country annually, they should focus on towing fuel economy a bit more.

So, you need power just to maintain highway speeds and more to accelerate up hills/mountains, and headwinds. The only 4-cyls I would recommend be something like the Escape 2.0T, which is really more like V6 power anyway.

Another important part of towing an RV of any kind is tongue weight and dry weights. Neither are what anyone tows. Peopel live in these, short term or long. You need clothes, food, towels, cooking stuff, plates, cups, plus recreation stuff like chairs, games, water sports stuff. It all adds up, to the tune of 1000 pounds of the average RVer. Now a smaller RV won't have the space for as much, but 700 pounds is easy to add. And so goes up the tongue weight from MFR dry numbers. Every trailer and vehicle manufacturer recommend 10-15% loaded TW. RVers tend to recommend the highjer of that scale, 12-15%, and I suspect people are towing RVs with more like 14-18%. It is more stable and a WDH confuses scaled TW calculation. Anyway, 3200 pounds loaded TT will have about 400 pounds of TW. Many of the smaller SUVs cannot handle 400-500 pounds of TW.

So now what? I highly recommend a modern V6 diesel. That will extremely limit choices. 2007-ish Jeep Grand Cherokee and Liberty CRD. 2011+ VV Touareg TDI and 2014+ Jeep Grand Cherokee ecodiesel. All of those will get around 15mpg towing a high walled RV and mid to upper 20's unloaded mixed driving in mid-sized SUVs. So you get 4-cyl FE with better than V8 torque (400+ pound-ft under 2000rpm. But you are paying a large premium for these, like $45-60k new. That isn't worth it for most people that tow 2k miles per year and drive another 12k otherwise. Compare to a V6 in same/similar mid-sized SUVs that will be more like 11mpg towing, 17mpg mixed driving.

Another option is dedicated tow vehicle. You can find a 10 year old V8 2WD pickup for $10k or less. Drive vehicle that uses far less fuel when not towing.

I bought a year end 2013 VW Touareg TDI Sport turbo diesel for $40,200, did not use their financing, in end of July 2013... Add in $180 for the hitch, and I found a used wiring harness and module that activates all the good stuff for trailering, for $200, so that was $380... and it's not worth it, buy the damn factory towing package pre installed, on any german SUV, like I did on the 2012 Touareg Sport TDI.

So you can get in for around $40k. I trailer about 4-8000 miles per year, now that I am retired. The Touareg makes a good tow rig, for a 4000 lb travel trailer, but I'd not go much beyond 21-24 feet and 4500 lbs, if you tow in the Western USA in the Rockys. The Touareg has a 7700 pound tow capacity, and 700 pound tongue weight limit.

spike99 wrote:

If buying new from dealer, I never ask for factory Tow Package "inclusion". They charge way too much. For me, I simply add my own ATF Aux cooler, add my own Timbren SES units, add my own Brake Controller and add my own Trailer hitch. And, I install at fraction of their selling price.

I do not agree with at at all. In fact, it's often far cheaper and more reliable to get the OEM's most cpaable towing pacakge. Anywhere from $200-500 MSRP for the package that usually includes receiver ($150-$250), trans cooler ($50), 7-pin trailer wiring ($80-$150), and sometimes better gearing ($500-$3000), all factory backed and already done.

Also, rear suspension "help" should not be used for bumper pull trailers. They often make WDH adjustment more difficult as well as mask overloaded rear axle and payload.

Back to OP: Towing any high walled RV is a lot of work as the aerodynamics are so poor. You are pulling two sheets of plywood through the air at 65mph. Ever wave you hand out the window at 65mph and feel how strong the wind is? Your tow vehicle needs power. That's why almost every gas engine towing any high walled RV gets 8-11mpg. For most people that RV for recreation less than 2000 miles per year towing, that's fine. For those that travel across the country annually, they should focus on towing fuel economy a bit more.

So, you need power just to maintain highway speeds and more to accelerate up hills/mountains, and headwinds. The only 4-cyls I would recommend be something like the Escape 2.0T, which is really more like V6 power anyway.

Another important part of towing an RV of any kind is tongue weight and dry weights. Neither are what anyone tows. Peopel live in these, short term or long. You need clothes, food, towels, cooking stuff, plates, cups, plus recreation stuff like chairs, games, water sports stuff. It all adds up, to the tune of 1000 pounds of the average RVer. Now a smaller RV won't have the space for as much, but 700 pounds is easy to add. And so goes up the tongue weight from MFR dry numbers. Every trailer and vehicle manufacturer recommend 10-15% loaded TW. RVers tend to recommend the highjer of that scale, 12-15%, and I suspect people are towing RVs with more like 14-18%. It is more stable and a WDH confuses scaled TW calculation. Anyway, 3200 pounds loaded TT will have about 400 pounds of TW. Many of the smaller SUVs cannot handle 400-500 pounds of TW.

So now what? I highly recommend a modern V6 diesel. That will extremely limit choices. 2007-ish Jeep Grand Cherokee and Liberty CRD. 2011+ VV Touareg TDI and 2014+ Jeep Grand Cherokee ecodiesel. All of those will get around 15mpg towing a high walled RV and mid to upper 20's unloaded mixed driving in mid-sized SUVs. So you get 4-cyl FE with better than V8 torque (400+ pound-ft under 2000rpm. But you are paying a large premium for these, like $45-60k new. That isn't worth it for most people that tow 2k miles per year and drive another 12k otherwise. Compare to a V6 in same/similar mid-sized SUVs that will be more like 11mpg towing, 17mpg mixed driving.

Another option is dedicated tow vehicle. You can find a 10 year old V8 2WD pickup for $10k or less. Drive vehicle that uses far less fuel when not towing.

Wishin wrote:
If 2500 lbs is the dry weight, you're easily going to be 3,000-3,500 lbs loaded (if not more), plus people and stuff in the vehicle. You're probably going to want something capable of towing 4,500-5,500 lbs. If it were me, I'd seriously consider the GMC Acadia or Chevrolet Traverse. Both are rated for 5,200 lbs with the towing package. The tow package includes things you can't really add after the fact without a great deal of cost and effort, so make sure you get it. It isn't that much money for the tow package either.

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I agree with the Acadia or Traverse (Enclave has a lower tow rating due to restricted air flow into the cooler)

My Acadia towed my Trail Cruiser 30 foot trailer with minimal effort. I thought that I was within the tow rating, and later learned that 4300lbs really isn't 4300 lbs, but actually 6006 lbs when loaded. With the 5200 lb tow limit (and you need to include people and cargo inside the Acadia as part of that limit) I was actually way over. My tongue weight was okay, my payload was over, my combined vehicle weight rating was over. The Acadia did very well considering, but I switched to a pickup truck to stay safe and legal after I realized my mistake.

If you are 3500lbs loaded, plus people and gear, the Acadia or Traverse (ONLY WITH FACTORY TOW PACKAGE) will work great for you.

5200 lb limit with tow package, 2000 lb limit without tow package. Can not be added later (physically you can add the parts, but GM will not cover and you could have a legal issue if an incident occurs on the road)

Some earlier Acadias were rated lower (4700 lbs) so verify the year.

If 2500 lbs is the dry weight, you're easily going to be 3,000-3,500 lbs loaded (if not more), plus people and stuff in the vehicle. You're probably going to want something capable of towing 4,500-5,500 lbs. If it were me, I'd seriously consider the GMC Acadia or Chevrolet Traverse. Both are rated for 5,200 lbs with the towing package. The tow package includes things you can't really add after the fact without a great deal of cost and effort, so make sure you get it. It isn't that much money for the tow package either. They can handle 650 lbs tongue weight with weight distribution hitch I believe. I think Drawtite makes a hitch with 750 lbs of tongue weight capacity as well. Plenty for any smaller trailer.

There are other good vehicles as well. I think you definitely want a V6 unless you are just driving locally on flat ground. I'm not sure you can get a 4 cyl with 3500 lbs of towing anyway which would be your absolute minimum. I'm not sure I'd want the minimum if I were you. If you go that route, make sure you find others that are already doing the same thing with success and have it all figured out. Vehicle vary. If I recall from the recent past, Honda minivan's start with a 3,500 lb tow rating and they reduce for every person in the vehicle and you can end up with less than 1000 lbs of towing ability for a loaded van. It seems the Toyota minivan is not so restricted. You may find similar differences with the suv's. Research carefully and once you get it narrowed down to your final choices, bring them back and let people here pick them apart. You can't believe every opinion but at least they give you things to investigate for yourself if nothing else.

spike99 wrote:


If buying new from dealer, I never ask for factory Tow Package "inclusion". They charge way too much. For me, I simply add my own ATF Aux cooler, add my own Timbren SES units, add my own Brake Controller and add my own Trailer hitch. And, I install at fraction of their selling price.

I'm not so sure how true this is especially the fraction of the cost claim. You also have to consider the electrical end for the trailer lights and charging ckt, etc. To hobble all this together aftermarket might not be as cheap and especially as clean as having it included from the factory. I would suggest one do a real good assessment of what the costs and work to install a complete trailer tow pkg themselves vs. what the factory option cost is before blindly refusing to get one as an option on a new vehicle.

The $375 MSRP (and I bet you could negotiate that cost down some) F150 tow pkg has the 7pin wiring, receiver, upgraded radiator, extra tranny cooling, and Select-Shift transmission. I think that $375 is well worth the money over trying to do those mods myself.


Larry

Sounds like that would be very well suited for a new Jeep Grand Cherokee Diesel.