Window replacement

Most of those windows are standard sizes. I don't see why they could not be found in dual pane.

You could do it cheaper by just getting the plastic wrap from Lowe's that you put on the inside and shrink tight with a blow dryer. It's meant to keep out drafts. That might help. I bet the windows are really expensive. Anything RV is outrageously expensive.

When I needed a replacement window for my Pioneer, I found one on ebay. It took a little while to find it, and lucky for me it was a latch problem that was causing me to replace it and I could wait around until a matching window came available, but the cost was way less than from the factory. If it was a broken window situation where I needed a replacement quickly, I wouldn't have been able to wait around to find the right one. I remember having to remove the inner ring to get an accurate measurement on the window and the mounting hole size. Good luck on your search.

thib2722 wrote:
You could do it cheaper by just getting the plastic wrap from Lowe's that you put on the inside and shrink tight with a blow dryer. It's meant to keep out drafts. That might help. I bet the windows are really expensive. Anything RV is outrageously expensive.

I agree that is probably the best route to take and if you don't need to actually see outside the window even the thicker "Bubble wrap" tapped or wedged in the window frame should provide almost the same insulation value as the much more expensive double pane replacement route.

I'm going to try some of the bubble wrap in some of my windows and ceiling vents during our upcoming Dec to Feb roadtrip this year. We're only going to Fl so this will be a "TEST LIGHT" experiment:p

Larry

LarryJM wrote:

thib2722 wrote:
You could do it cheaper by just getting the plastic wrap from Lowe's that you put on the inside and shrink tight with a blow dryer. It's meant to keep out drafts. That might help. I bet the windows are really expensive. Anything RV is outrageously expensive.

I agree that is probably the best route to take and if you don't need to actually see outside the window even the thicker "Bubble wrap" tapped or wedged in the window frame should provide almost the same insulation value as the much more expensive double pane replacement route.

I'm going to try some of the bubble wrap in some of my windows and ceiling vents during our upcoming Dec to Feb roadtrip this year. We're only going to Fl so this will be a "TEST LIGHT" experiment:p

Larry

Larry,
I've used foam insulation panels friction fit into the window's frame with good success. I know you would get better insulation value with extruded polystyrene rather than the bubble wrap. Should be easier to reuse them, also. The one thing given up is light. We would block out all the frames at night and then remove the panels during the day. A small tab of tape was used on the bottom edge to facilitate removal.

westend wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

thib2722 wrote:
You could do it cheaper by just getting the plastic wrap from Lowe's that you put on the inside and shrink tight with a blow dryer. It's meant to keep out drafts. That might help. I bet the windows are really expensive. Anything RV is outrageously expensive.

I agree that is probably the best route to take and if you don't need to actually see outside the window even the thicker "Bubble wrap" tapped or wedged in the window frame should provide almost the same insulation value as the much more expensive double pane replacement route.

I'm going to try some of the bubble wrap in some of my windows and ceiling vents during our upcoming Dec to Feb roadtrip this year. We're only going to Fl so this will be a "TEST LIGHT" experiment:p

Larry

Larry,
I've used foam insulation panels friction fit into the window's frame with good success. I know you would get better insulation value with extruded polystyrene rather than the bubble wrap. Should be easier to reuse them, also. The one thing given up is light. We would block out all the frames at night and then remove the panels during the day. A small tab of tape was used on the bottom edge to facilitate removal.

I considered the better alternatives like you mention, but I really don't want to make the inside look any more like a cave than it already does and for Fl (Orlando area) I really don't even need the bubble wrap, but was going to give it a try in a few places to see if I could see much difference. I agree your solution is much better insulation wise than bubble wrap, but I'm thinking the really thick kind if I can find it cheap enough locally before we leave.

Larry

Also thinking the plastic shrink covering would be good and not nearly as pricey. When we moved to the great snow belt, even though our house had good thermal pane windows, many suggested we add this. Quick job, inexpensive, worked like a charm and you'd never know it was there as it shrinks to be nearly perfectly clear. IIRC, the brand we used was Scotch brand. Double sided tape around the frame, apply the plastic, grab the hair dryer to shrink and you're done. You still have great visability. Removal is easy but may require a smidge of Goo Gone.

If you can afford the dual pane as a replacement, then yes it will help for sure. You will give up any crank out windows though if you have them. I have not yet seen a double pane crank out. All sliders. Means no window open when raining.

We winter camp and for about $10 bucks you can do an entire camper (32 feet) with the shrink wrap. It is one time use, but again it is cheap. It will last until you want to take it off, even a year or more later.

You can see here how I have done it. I have a combination of single hung, picture windows and crank outs. For the crank put, just take the knob off for the winter.

Start with this


A typical shot of the combo windows


You attach it to the inside metal ring around the window, not the wall board.


And the end results


Learning the hard way...I figured out I need to put this on "before" cold weather sets in. When the aluminum ring is really cold the double sided tape does not want to stick so well. At 50 to 75F degrees outside it works really well. As you can see from the dates, doing in late Dec still does work, just it works better when warmer.

The haze you see in the pics is the fog on the glass before I put the wrap on. That will evaporate out the leaking cracks in the window and then it is crystal clear. You can see here when camping in the winter with light snow outside the window is clear.



I will say this, if you are going to do cool weather camping, start investigating about venting the camper and dealing with internal moisture. The shrink wrap will keep the windows clear and help insulate but you still have to take care of the moisture. We vent and use a dehumidifier. You can see here in the morning condensation condenses on the window flange. I take a towel and wipe it off every morning, but still have to deal with the over all moisture and keep it under control. Get a humidity meter to gage to keep track of how good or not you are doing.





If the shrink wrap is not your thing, there is an option of storm windows and these are as effective as dual pane. They are single pane glass that goes right on these windows with a foam seal to the window flange. This allows crank outs, single hung and picture windows and not having to change the window you have now. Down side is you have to take them off and on and store them. I know they make them, I even have pics of folks who have them, I just have never bought them. That may be the cost issue. You can make them yourself from plexi or lexan if you are a handy wood worker.

Hope this helps

John

I have been following this thread for a week, so here it is in a nutshell. Do not waste your money on changing windows.I keep rig in WY and had that same vision of grandour.Get a good heater and timer and spend the saved money on a bottle of Crown.