2014 GulfStream Streamlite 28Rbb. So I live in MI and obviously it has already froze and actually been in the 40/50's the last few days so Thawed also. My question is when I went through and drained the water for winter, I opened all the valves ran the pump till it was spitting air. Opened the low point plugs underneath and also the freshwater plug, poured A/F down all drains and toilet. What Im concerned about is the Water Heater, I only drained it by opening the relief valve while pumping the water out until it was also just spitting air. My problem was that when I tried to get the large Bolt from the bottom of the Water heater panel on the outside, it was so rusted that I actually broke my channel locks in half. I was over at my storage place over the weekend and popped open the relief valve again and some water trickled out so I let it until nothing. My question is at this point is there something I should do or has the damage (or hopefully lack there of) been done?

If it was me, I would get that correct six point socket that fits that bolt on the bottom and try to persuade it out. A 2014 shouldn't be that far gone that the bolt is seized. But the right tool for the job is very important so you don't break, what isn't broken.

Yeah that is on my list of things to do, I really just didnt want to run into an issue of braking the bolt somehow and really being screwed. Anyone on here off hand no the size Socket that would be? I probably have one between my garage and my dads.

If the bolt you referred to is the drain (for Atwood) or anode (if Suburban) it should have a hex head about size 15/16 (as I remember) and the easiest way to get it out is with a socket. If yours is rusted it may be useful to spray it with WD-40 and, even better, use a hammer drill on the socket.However, since it is winter now I would suggest removing the relief valve and pour 1/2 bottle of A/F thru the hole. There may not be enough water in the heater to be a problem but this is a little insurance.Next year, however, remove the drain/anode plug to get all the water and A/F out AND use a Tank Saver sprayer to flush out more of the crud.

I heard that is it bad for A/F to be in the Tank? If I do that do I just need to make sure before I turn on the heater to get all the AF out? If I can get the Drain bolt out and waters comes out than I think Ill be ok. Do I replace the Bolt after I drain or leave it open to continue to drain? Also one more think, should I leave any Valves/Faucets open while its store for the winter?

Depending on how cold, the damage may already be done. It sounds like you have an anode rod drain plug (Suburban WH). On mine, if you open the hot low point drain, and have the relief valve open, it will drain most, but not all water.It is best to pull that anode/plug out for draining. I still use a shop vac with necked down hose (use duct tape) to get all the water out.A large socket is best to remove the anode. Prior soaking with a rust loosening penetrate, such as Liquid Wrench may help.Jerry

Winterized Water Heater | Good Sam Community

MFL
Nomad II
Jan 03, 2017
engelstine wrote:
Looking at images of both brands, I believe that I have a Suburban with the Rod. I found that it is a 6 Gallon DSI G/E according to the For Sale comments on the RV website I bought it from.

Atwood plug will be plastic.

Jerry
engelstine
Explorer
Jan 03, 2017
I got the nut off but the rod stayed in?? What now? Is the rod threaded in or supposed to just slide out? It wiggles a little.
ppine
Explorer II
Jan 03, 2017
Remove the drain with the anode rod. Install a bypass for the WH if you don't already have one.
MFL
Nomad II
Jan 03, 2017
No threads on the rod, but if broken off from the nut, it may be a little tricky to get out. If lots of corrosion around the plug hole, you may try cleaning with brush, small screw driver, etc. Just dont damage the tank threads.

You will likely have to do some major cleaning of the tank threads, before installing a new anode. I use a steel 3/4 inch brush in a drill to clean my threads. Threads will get more corroded if no plug reinstalled.

Jerry
kearlms
Explorer
Jan 03, 2017
Here is what your anode rod should look like. If the rod is still in there then it has broken off. If the ice melts the rod will be in there somewhere. Hopefully you can get it out before it melts. Once it is all water it will fall to the bottom and be a pain to get to. Good Luck with it all.
engelstine
Explorer
Jan 03, 2017
I can stil grab the tiny rod that can off but. I have hair dryer blowing in the hole now. Thoughts on a use of a torch?
Bucky_Badger
Explorer
Jan 03, 2017
You may have bigger problems if you didn't run antifreeze in the lines or blow out the system with an air compressor. Your OP says you used the pump till air came out, I really doubt that works
MFL
Nomad II
Jan 03, 2017
engelstine wrote:
I can stil grab the tiny rod that can off but. I have hair dryer blowing in the hole now. Thoughts on a use of a torch?

A hair drier should be enough. Just be patient, you will get it.

One other thing, with the WH empty, make sure the electric on/off switch, in lower left corner, is in the OFF position, before plugging trailer into shore power.

Jerry
engelstine
Explorer
Jan 03, 2017
It's off. Looking at it now.
MFL
Nomad II
Jan 03, 2017
Bucky Badger wrote:
You may have bigger problems if you didn't run antifreeze in the lines or blow out the system with an air compressor. Your OP says you used the pump till air came out, I really doubt that works

Bucky is correct, compressed air, at the least, but pink through all lines, including the toilet, inside and outside shower is best.

Jerry

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