Winterizing
I have had a few motorhomes and campers over the years and I really love my 2008 811 queen Northern Lite, but it has more water valves then a big motorhome. I am able to drain the tank, drained the...
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Jim: For the past 10 years of winterizing my NL 10-2 RR in Montana, here's what I do - (I DO NOT PUT PINK ANTIFREEZE IN THE POTABLE WATER LINES):
1) dump grey and black water tank, close dump valves
2) drain the water heater, leave anode out, put a plug of paper in the hole to keep bugs out
3) open drain line valves in pump room chamber and drain all water from the camper lines, leave them open. Then use an air compressor (about 40psi or so) and blow air in each faucet discharge nozzle, cycling hot and cold handles
4) Pour pink antifreeze in each sink trap and the shower floor drain trap, say a cup, or so in each trap - make sure there is enough going down to get into the grey tank. If in doubt, add more
5) Pour a quart of antifreeze down the toilet into the black tank
6) I have a pressurizing capacity tank installed in my potable water lines and I have a drain valve installed at the tank fitting that I also open and drain
7) I also have begun taking off the water pump inlet screen and draining that cup. Some time ago I moved my water pump up near my pump room door for easy access to the inlet and outlet of the pump.
That's it. It takes me about 30-40 minutes start to finish. The water lines are all made of PEX pipe and won't crack if frozen. The only hazzard is if water is left in a hard plastic joint (sink trap) or any other hard joint.
Each year I wonder if there's residual water in the lines. But, I've never had a problem with our Montana winters reaching -20-30 below zero.
The advantage of this method is that you don't have to flush the pink nasty tasting gunk out of the lines in the spring.
1) dump grey and black water tank, close dump valves
2) drain the water heater, leave anode out, put a plug of paper in the hole to keep bugs out
3) open drain line valves in pump room chamber and drain all water from the camper lines, leave them open. Then use an air compressor (about 40psi or so) and blow air in each faucet discharge nozzle, cycling hot and cold handles
4) Pour pink antifreeze in each sink trap and the shower floor drain trap, say a cup, or so in each trap - make sure there is enough going down to get into the grey tank. If in doubt, add more
5) Pour a quart of antifreeze down the toilet into the black tank
6) I have a pressurizing capacity tank installed in my potable water lines and I have a drain valve installed at the tank fitting that I also open and drain
7) I also have begun taking off the water pump inlet screen and draining that cup. Some time ago I moved my water pump up near my pump room door for easy access to the inlet and outlet of the pump.
That's it. It takes me about 30-40 minutes start to finish. The water lines are all made of PEX pipe and won't crack if frozen. The only hazzard is if water is left in a hard plastic joint (sink trap) or any other hard joint.
Each year I wonder if there's residual water in the lines. But, I've never had a problem with our Montana winters reaching -20-30 below zero.
The advantage of this method is that you don't have to flush the pink nasty tasting gunk out of the lines in the spring.
