I am looking at buying a 2015 Keystone Energy 300FBS toy hauler. The dry weight is 7740, carrying capacity is 2260, and the dry tongue weight is 1180.Right now I own a 2013 F150 EB, SuperCrew, Max Tow. I use a weight distribution hitch with anti-sway kit. The travel trailer which I just sold and pulled up and down the mountains here in Alaska without issue was a 2012 Passpport 3050BH.My concern with the trailer that I am looking at is the tongue weight. What effect does the "E" rated tires and weight distribution kit have on this combination and the payload capacity of my truck? Would the Roadmaster Active Suspension or Firestone Air Bags be a worthwhile investment?Cleary, me buying a bigger truck is the best answer (I have been looking at a 2015 F350 Lariat). Is what I listed above a SAFE combination?Thanks in advance for your responses.

Go out and weigh our F150 fully loaded as if ready to go towing, axle by axleBest to actually weigh the trailer too (hooked up)Gather your F150's ratings: GVWR, F/R GAWR, GCWR (there are over adozen, am told, models of F150...from +6K GVWR to just under 8K GVWR)There used to be fake half ton F150 with a +8K GVWR and 6K RGAWR, butdon't know if Ford still offers that oneThen use the diagram below to figure what the max weights of the tongue andtrailer are in reference to your F150's GCWRPlay around with those possibilities with your available left over rating for your RGAWR BenK wrote:A continual point of bewilderment for me how a chart can know how much'my' TV weighs...and what is NOT rocket science and is simple math...becomes rocket science for folks who won't go out and actually weigh their TV, axle by axle...and their trailer...whether Fiver or tongued...and that, that chart knows the actual PIN/tongue of any particular trailer. Then the forever debate whether to follow the RATINGS or not...to evenwhat is a rating...as if the OEM engineering team are clueless on that topicOr the belief that any OEM published/listed/etc MTWR is an absolute...it is NOTContinue to say...decide whether you believe in the ratings system ornot...if not, then do whatever and know that you have taken the OEM(s)off the warranty (if any left) hook and liability hook. If yes, thenlearn how the ratings system works and go out and actually weigh yourstuffThe simple math equation is: GCWR >= TV + TT + all cargo/hitch/etc Then factor in the actual weights to which ever 'RATING' in the belowdiagram (whimsy to try and get the point across that even a motorcycle'can' tow something...but within it's ratings)...that each RATING mightbecome the weak link to dictate the overall RATING...howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditowSo folks...tell me where I've missed the point of all this? So that Ican learn if I'm off the mark

I wouldn't do it. 10,000 # GVWR trailer would/could put circa 1500# of load on the bumper....add that to the people and stuff you'll have in the truck already and I suspect your up against the trucks GVWR limit. What are the GVWR, GCVWR, FAWR, RAWR of your truck? In addition to the ratings, I'd have a general concern about that trailer (if loaded) pushing the truck around....but that's a perception thing whereas the ratings are numbers.

Initial thought is, it's too much trailer, or too little truck.As far as suspension modifications, they may help with ride comfort, but, none will increase your capacity.Here is a calculator program. Plug in your numbers and see what it says. The hitch weight box is referring to the WD hitch. Average is 100 lbs.You may want to take a look at your weight dist. hitch, it may not be rated for the tongue weight of that toy hauler.

You may be well under the fictional "tow rating" but the hitch weight alone will exceed your receiver's max rating. It will probably put you over your payload and possibly axle rating as well, depending on what else you carry in the truck. There is nothing you can do to the truck to increase its payload or GVWR. If you're set on that TH, don't mask an under rated truck with bandaids. Get the F350.

The dry TW exceeds your receiver limit and will likely increase from there. I recommend an upgraded truck, 3/4+ ton.

your thoughts | Good Sam Community

13 Replies

handye9
Explorer II
Feb 19, 2015
Initial thought is, it's too much trailer, or too little truck.

As far as suspension modifications, they may help with ride comfort, but, none will increase your capacity.

Here is a calculator program. Plug in your numbers and see what it says.

The hitch weight box is referring to the WD hitch. Average is 100 lbs.

You may want to take a look at your weight dist. hitch, it may not be rated for the tongue weight of that toy hauler.
PA12DRVR
Explorer
Feb 19, 2015
I wouldn't do it. 10,000 # GVWR trailer would/could put circa 1500# of load on the bumper....add that to the people and stuff you'll have in the truck already and I suspect your up against the trucks GVWR limit.

What are the GVWR, GCVWR, FAWR, RAWR of your truck?

In addition to the ratings, I'd have a general concern about that trailer (if loaded) pushing the truck around....but that's a perception thing whereas the ratings are numbers.
BenK
Explorer
Feb 19, 2015
Go out and weigh our F150 fully loaded as if ready to go towing, axle by axle

Best to actually weigh the trailer too (hooked up)

Gather your F150's ratings: GVWR, F/R GAWR, GCWR (there are over a
dozen, am told, models of F150...from +6K GVWR to just under 8K GVWR)
There used to be fake half ton F150 with a +8K GVWR and 6K RGAWR, but
don't know if Ford still offers that one

Then use the diagram below to figure what the max weights of the tongue and
trailer are in reference to your F150's GCWR

Play around with those possibilities with your available left over rating for
your RGAWR

BenK wrote:
A continual point of bewilderment for me how a chart can know how much
'my' TV weighs...and what is NOT rocket science and is simple
math...becomes rocket science for folks who won't go out and actually
weigh their TV, axle by axle...and their trailer...whether Fiver or
tongued...and that, that chart knows the actual PIN/tongue of any
particular trailer.

Then the forever debate whether to follow the RATINGS or not...to even
what is a rating...as if the OEM engineering team are clueless on that topic

Or the belief that any OEM published/listed/etc MTWR is an absolute...it is NOT

Continue to say...decide whether you believe in the ratings system or
not...if not, then do whatever and know that you have taken the OEM(s)
off the warranty (if any left) hook and liability hook. If yes, then
learn how the ratings system works and go out and actually weigh your
stuff

The simple math equation is: GCWR >= TV + TT + all cargo/hitch/etc

Then factor in the actual weights to which ever 'RATING' in the below
diagram (whimsy to try and get the point across that even a motorcycle
'can' tow something...but within it's ratings)...that each RATING might
become the weak link to dictate the overall RATING...

howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditow

So folks...tell me where I've missed the point of all this? So that I
can learn if I'm off the mark

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your thoughts

13 Replies

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