Forum Discussion
- mellowExplorerWhat is up with all these single posters? Only 1 post from PO.
- Bert_the_WelderExplorer II
mi.drew wrote:
Belly bar clamped to the frame for the front. Tubing run through the frame cross member at the wheel well for rear.
"C" clamps or "F" clamps? - mi_drewExplorerBelly bar clamped to the frame for the front. Tubing run through the frame cross member at the wheel well for rear.
- Bert_the_WelderExplorer II
Kayteg1 wrote:
Too many general statements, not giving any details.
I am metal fabricator, what is now hobby, but was profession for some time in my life.
When I was estimating what it would take to make template for front tie-down, it was shooting north of 20 hr just for design.
Even Torklift screw the designs as the ties for my Ford come with 4 thick shims to compensate for bad design.
But rear tie downs for truck with rear hitch it just straight tubing with reducer on 1 end and small plate on other end.
Even highschooler can make design in less than 5 minutes.
TL adds "moustache" bracket to bolt under hitch, but I simply drilled 1/4" hole for a pin.
With some extra time you can make it easy bolt-on design, but welding is simply easier.
Yep. It's the head scratching that takes the time/$. And I agree, the rears are completely different, and if for a give set-up, can be done with just some square tube(of sufficient size/wall thickness)and some drilled holes, then that's fairly straight forward. But even then, we both know that many folks are more then capable of forking even this up. Loose fit, thin wall, holes badly placed. You start getting the "good enough" mentality in there and something like a tie down can go south quite easily.
I tend to assume nothing when it comes to my clients and I assume that 100% when it comes to guys online touting how easy something is to just throw together. I'm no safety Susan, but if it's something that has the potential hurt others or is touted as a "How-To" and is just completely wrong, I'm speaking up. - JimK-NYExplorer III was amazed at the work needed for the front tiedowns on my 2018 Ram. There was just minimal room and a complicated design. The cost was definitely worth it.
- Kayteg1Explorer IIToo many general statements, not giving any details.
I am metal fabricator, what is now hobby, but was profession for some time in my life.
When I was estimating what it would take to make template for front tie-down, it was shooting north of 20 hr just for design.
Even Torklift screw the designs as the ties for my Ford come with 4 thick shims to compensate for bad design.
But rear tie downs for truck with rear hitch it just straight tubing with reducer on 1 end and small plate on other end.
Even highschooler can make design in less than 5 minutes.
TL adds "moustache" bracket to bolt under hitch, but I simply drilled 1/4" hole for a pin.
With some extra time you can make it easy bolt-on design, but welding is simply easier. - Bert_the_WelderExplorer II
jimh425 wrote:
Bert the Welder wrote:
So yeah, just go grab any old Harbor Fright welder and start blazing away. Beside, there's always a grinder and paint to make it 'look' good. :S
I’m partial to Millers, but buying the best welders isn’t any more important than buying the most expensive wrench. Welding well is more related to the skill, consumables, and knowledge of the person than where they bought the equipment.
For grins and giggles, you should take a look at some of the welding projects people do with cheap equipment on youtube. I bet you’d be surprised. Maybe not. :D
That was my point and not my point.
You can't just go get a welder (no matter what brand) and just weld up a set of tigh-downs. You have to know what you are doing. Otherwise you're risking a lot more then just your camper.
An expensive welder does not make a good weldor. A good weldor can make a cheap welder work.....to a point..... :) - jaycocreekExplorer II
Big jim wrote:
But also, I can understand that you don’t choose to spend your money that way considering you are driving a ‘94. It’s not like I’m driving a new truck either.
With only 91,000 miles lol...
I use my truck in the mountains getting firewood and hauling the TC..No way would I take a newer truck there..It serves my purposes well and I didn't spend a fortune to buy it,it's like tie downs,my Happijac's work just fine and if I got a heavier truck camper,I would make my own frame mounted...
I support myself not some company..lol - jimh406Explorer III
Bert the Welder wrote:
So yeah, just go grab any old Harbor Fright welder and start blazing away. Beside, there's always a grinder and paint to make it 'look' good. :S
I’m partial to Millers, but buying the best welders isn’t any more important than buying the most expensive wrench. Welding well is more related to the skill, consumables, and knowledge of the person than where they bought the equipment.
For grins and giggles, you should take a look at some of the welding projects people do with cheap equipment on youtube. I bet you’d be surprised. Maybe not. :D - jimh406Explorer III
jaycocreek wrote:
Torklift products are over priced
Obviously not since they can sell them and have a great reputation. Also, they don’t cost $1000 either unless you go with the Aluminum models. Otherwise, you can get them for a few hundred less.
For what you are getting they are a great deal compared to Happijacs which atttach to the bed and bumper permanently, and the other brands don’t even pretend to compete for the heavy camper market.
But also, I can understand that you don’t choose to spend your money that way considering you are driving a ‘94. It’s not like I’m driving a new truck either.
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229 PostsLatest Activity: Mar 12, 2025