So what did you do to your Truck Camper today?

Ran 2 110V lines down through the floor, underneath the camper, and back up to the inverter. Thankfully we only had to drill one new hole inside a cabinet through the floor, the rest of the run could follow previous wires and holes in the battery box. Now we should be able to power our microwave and one more socket off our inverter.

If memory serves me, the bolts are long on the upper StableLoads, and space to work with tools very limited on my Ram.

Believe I used just regular box end wrench to tighten things down after hand starting the nuts onto the bolts as far as they would go. No room for a ratchet wrench with socket in there.

Yes, I was thinking the lowers. I did just instal the uppers on my F450 and all I had to do was jack the back of the truck up from the hitch so the springs would pull away from the stock overload.

Are you talking upper or lower SL? These are upper and the bolt was much longer than 1.75". We took off the factory pad and replaced it with the upper. Bolt comes in from bottom, nut on top. Clearance with long bolt was very small. Looks like the pic on Torklift website, the one with the Stableload shown in yellow screwed into the u-shaped cross piece, except almost immediately where the top of the bolt is, are a bunch of other truck metal bits. Torklift even said to cut the bolt to make it fit.

This makes no sense to me. Post a picture of your installation. The only bolt is the bolt that goes through the leaf spring and its 1.75" long. The bolt goes from the top down through the leaf spring with the nut on the bottom. Easy.

Mine was also a 2014. I still have the Stableloads.

The Mad Norsky wrote:

thedavidzoo wrote:
Installed Upper Stableloads on the 2014 Ram DRW today. Called Torklift 3x. HUGE pain, had to jack up frame, cut bolts shorter several times, remove tabs, NO clearance for tools. Took all afternoon and into evening. Ha, 45 minutes and "your wife can do it" my a$$. SHeeeshhh. You'd think Torklift would have better instructions for specific vehicles...

Jacking up the rear, by using hydraulic jack and the receiver hitch, worked best for getting my StableLoads in.

Never had to cut any bolts though. ???????? Wonder why yours was so different??????? Our trucks are same model year.

Mind you, I did cut out some of the fender liner around the duals, it was the only way to get at the rear overload pad.

Cut the 3/4" plywood decking for the cabover floor. Now, I can pull out the last section of the old ceiling and start insulating and finish paneling the interior :).

Purchased Hellwig Big Wig Rear Sway Bars...cant wait to install and see the difference. Planning on also replacing front.

The Stableload bolts were so long that we couldn't fit any socket over them and get the ratchet back out. That is why we lopped off a good part of the rear bolts. You are trying to tighten a nut that sits down in a small "bowl" with no clearance on top or either side, everything was in the way. Didn't think about cutting away the plastic inside the wheel well, wouldn't want to anyway, plus its screw and protruding molding is in the exact same area. Don't know why our truck seems to be so difficult. Just a crappy installation day.

thedavidzoo wrote:
Installed Upper Stableloads on the 2014 Ram DRW today. Called Torklift 3x. HUGE pain, had to jack up frame, cut bolts shorter several times, remove tabs, NO clearance for tools. Took all afternoon and into evening. Ha, 45 minutes and "your wife can do it" my a$$. SHeeeshhh. You'd think Torklift would have better instructions for specific vehicles...

Jacking up the rear, by using hydraulic jack and the receiver hitch, worked best for getting my StableLoads in.

Never had to cut any bolts though. ???????? Wonder why yours was so different??????? Our trucks are same model year.

Mind you, I did cut out some of the fender liner around the duals, it was the only way to get at the rear overload pad.

Decided to purchase a new Champion 3400/3100 model 100261 with wireless remote start. It's a new model. Going to get rid off the Propane gen set, it only has 90 hrs. Hopefully, it will be a quick sell. Purchased a 16 gallon fuel cell that will fit in the existing generator location with an extended fuel tank kit. Planning on storing new generator in Trailer or when not traveling with Trailer on a hitch cargo storage...along w/ (2)5 gal NATO style gasoline cans for a total of 30 gals.(includes 4 gallons on generator tank +/_). Should have plenty of fuel for extended dry camping.