2014 Alaska Trip Lessons/Info

[jnharley]

We are back in the lower 48 after a summer trip to Alaska. We left Indiana just before Memorial Day and we were back across the border right before Labor Day. We traveled with a 37 foot 5th wheel and a dually truck. We have a 62 gal fuel tank. Thought I would share some of the things we encountered and experienced in the hope that it helps others if deciding to go to Alaska. Keep in mind that this is our opinion and experience. Others may have experienced other things.

- Take stacks of money.
- If you think about the cost of fuel, it will make you cry. Diesel is very expensive in Canada and can be in Alaska. It was $4.74 in Valdez, $5.10 in Cantwell, $4.44 in Seward.
- The roads were incredibly bad in places. We have a Moryde IS suspension and we had things move around that had never moved before. If you have a rear kitchen, it may be problematic. We crept over bad sections/construction zones and still had trouble with things shifting. Construction was worse on our return south.
- Frost heaves/broken pavement are only marked on good road. You have to become adept at looking for the bad sections so you can slow down.
- There are some steep grades and narrow roads.
- The Milepost is an invaluable tool.
- Our GPS would occasionally go insane. Most common was "Make a u-turn and then an immediate left" and once it even said "Go Thata way."
- Campgrounds are not that good and pretty expensive. If you want full hookups you are going to be slide to slide with your neighbor and it is just going to be a gravel parking lot with 30 amp. We stayed in a variety of campgrounds, the best being a USFS campground and it was the only paved site we had the entire trip. We only made reservations twice the entire trip and dry camped about 1/3 of the time.
- Dining out is very expensive and we found the food to not be very good. We were also unwilling to pay $40-$50 per person for a meal. Portions are usually huge though.
- Homer was our favorite place followed by Valdez and Denali National Park.
- We met some really nice people and one couple will be life long friends.
- Most of our wildlife sitings were in Canada. Black bears in BC and grizzlies in the Yukon. We only saw one bear in Alaska other than in Denali. There is lots of opportunity to see a wide variety of wildlife.

It was a spectacular journey and we are already planning on our return. It is truly an adventure. Would be happy to answer questions or provide additional information.

[quoyfab]

Great post and subsequent sharing of experiences. It took me down memory lane. Our last Alaska trip was from Maine to Alaska and back by RV in 2005, and though expensive, we feel it was as good an investment toward the enjoyment of life for the experiences and memories we have. I believe the Canadian singer Craig Jacks(??) spoke volumes from a line in a song "the more you live, the less you die".

As for the Alcan, slow is the right speed. We race from place to place all our working lives, why do it while vacationing ? As Joe Kieva said, remember what the R in RV stands for.

One of my favorite panoramic memories is from an overnight in a pull-off across from Summit Lake. Following a good night's sleep, we sat out in camp chairs/coffee staring in awe at the reflection of the mountains on the lake as smooth as a mirror. We also much enjoyed the signpost forest in Watson Lake. Stop to think of the origins, of the homesick man who helped to build the highway making it possible for the many folks fortunate enough to make the trip. Another neat experience just beyond the gorgeous Kluane Lake, was late breakfast at Destruction Bay Lodge where we were served by Shauna who shared her story about life year round in the area. In the off season, she, her husband and son work for the Yukon Gov't clearing and burning the vast amount of dead trees. Behind the roadhouse, I met Dubie (lol), who fashions bowls from the burls of black spruce. Aside from chatting, he proudly showed me his workshop, gave a demonstration, and showed me his supply of raw materials. The DW and our traveling companions were ready to go, but I took the time to buy a few items.

I could go on and on and on, but will only mention one other highlight that I have't seen previously mentioned. Mahay's airboat service. Great,great,great time. It was in the toursaver booklet, which made it twice as great.

Finally, the overlook just outside of Homer. The 'spit' and Kachemak Bay with the mountains in the background on a clear day?
If you are a sucker for scenery, little can beat that.

Thanks again to all who contributed to this thread.

[D_E_Bishop]

PA12DRVR wrote:
" Each of us is different in our ideas of what is fun or enjoyable, but if you don't make this trip, you will never know if it is worth all the rough roads, high fuel costs, possible damage to your RV, etc."

x2

I hope everyone coming to Alaska enjoys every minute of the trip...for those that are concerned about the distance, weather, rough roads, etc, all I can say is that there are any number of nice smooth roads in other parts of Canada and the L48. Instead of the roads (or the availability of CG's, or ....), the flora, fauna, topography, ambience, of Alaska and W/NW Canada are, or at least should be, the attraction. The bumps, dust, mud, and distance are just part of the entry fee.

That being said, I've never taken an RV up the Alcan (or down the Cassiar), but have taken every other type of vehicle up/down/back&forth when the road was much rougher than it is now and if my time was my own, I'd make the drive (prolly mostly from Dawson Creek onwards) 4-5 times a year if I could....and since my time isn't entirely my own, I've taken several flights up for a long weekend over the past 10-12 years, just to stay in touch with Alaska.

Mr. Service and Mr. London were spot on when they wrote of the lure of the North-country.

I have the same feelings, while we are from Los Angeles and have driven, it is spot on.

My granddaughter is 14 and wants a teardrop, so we are going to build one and she will get our Sidekick to go with it. Her goal is when she is 18, she will drive the Alaska Hwy with her Catt Box in tow. She loved it when we took her and she is saving for her trip even now.

It's all in what your dreams are. Go or stay down here but dream about someplace.

[Smitty77]

Really enjoyed this thread, and confirms our plans for a 2017 're-do' with a later return date to the lower 48 is spot on!!

So happy for those of you that were able to stretch your time out into late September!!

Do you think the I'd get in trouble by starting a 2017 Thread!!!

Best to all,
Smitty

[jnharley]

Congdon Creek Campground is just the best. We stayed there heading north and then again heading south, one of the highlights of our trip.

[PA12DRVR]

While I'd struggle to admit that anywhere is comparable to Alaska, :)the Kluane / Destruction Bay area is pretty much perfect and incomparable.

Way back in the day when I drove the highway much more frequently, it always felt like I was getting home when I reached the lake...of course, with Los Anchorage being many more hours down the road, that feeling was soon set aside. :B

[soos]

Another perk to staying later in the year is the chance to see the aurora.
its absolutely amazing !

Sue

[Scottiemom]

explorenorth wrote:

PA12DRVR wrote:
I always suggest that people stay as far into fall as possible. I realize that many of the "RV" type services close in early September, but some of the most spectacular scenery in Alaska shows up in mid-late September and in early October.

Admittedly, I'm a bit odd (for one thing, I totally enjoy winter in AK), but the, depending how one counts, 3 - 6 week fall season is the most visually stunning in Alaska, IMNSHO.

We only had a weekend available to us, but REALLY wanted to spend this entire week at the Congdon Creek Campground on Kluane Lake. It took 47 photos to explain how amazing it was on my blog this morning 🙂

Beautiful pictures of a beautiful place. So peaceful and relaxing. Thanks for referencing your blog.


Dale

[colliehauler]

explorenorth, I enjoyed your pictures.

[explorenorth]

PA12DRVR wrote:
I always suggest that people stay as far into fall as possible. I realize that many of the "RV" type services close in early September, but some of the most spectacular scenery in Alaska shows up in mid-late September and in early October.

Admittedly, I'm a bit odd (for one thing, I totally enjoy winter in AK), but the, depending how one counts, 3 - 6 week fall season is the most visually stunning in Alaska, IMNSHO.

We only had a weekend available to us, but REALLY wanted to spend this entire week at the Congdon Creek Campground on Kluane Lake. It took 47 photos to explain how amazing it was on my blog this morning 🙂

[sue_t]

PA12DRVR wrote:
Admittedly, I'm a bit odd (for one thing, I totally enjoy winter in AK), but the, depending how one counts, 3 - 6 week fall season is the most visually stunning in Alaska, IMNSHO.

Just a BIT odd? :B

September was always our favorite season to tour Yukon & Alaska when we RVed here for vacations. Now that we live here, fall continues to be our favorite season.

Top of the World Highway in early September http://yukonsights.ca/20120905_ClintonCrk.html

Haines Road in mid-September http://yukonsights.ca/20130921_HainesRd.html

Kluane area in early September http://yukonsights.ca/20130902_LakeCk-home.html

[PA12DRVR]

hr0082 wrote:
This morning on the Hurricane Turn Train Facebook page, they had a beautiful post of the fall colors, with a rainbow in the background. We took the train back in July or August and had a great time. I spent most of my time in the baggage car, visiting with the locals who were on board with their dogs. The car doors were open and I was able to totally enjoy the views.

More and more, I am thinking that I want to return to Alaska next year and if we do, I will try to stay until the Fall colors are present and I will do the train ride again. I highly recommend it, regardless of the time of year. If you have two or more taking the ride, be sure and get a Tour Saver Book so you can get the buy one get one free. That alone will nearly pay for the book. We also used it for the Lu-Lu Belle and the Stan Stephens glacier cruises in Valdez. Next year, I want to do the cruise out of Seward.

If we do go, this will be our 4th trip in 5 years. My only regret is that we did not purchase an RV immediately upon retirement in 1999 and start making the Alaska trip way back then.

I always suggest that people stay as far into fall as possible. I realize that many of the "RV" type services close in early September, but some of the most spectacular scenery in Alaska shows up in mid-late September and in early October.

Admittedly, I'm a bit odd (for one thing, I totally enjoy winter in AK), but the, depending how one counts, 3 - 6 week fall season is the most visually stunning in Alaska, IMNSHO.

[rag-ftw]

Hollie, you will not be disappointed by sticking around for the Fall colors. We went through Glennallen on 4 Sep and just got back into Washington state yesterday. The colors all along the Richardson, Tok Cutoff, ALCAN, Taylor, Top of the World, and Cassiar Highways were unbelievable. The golds, greens, reds, purples, etc were super bright as most of this area had just had their first killing frost a day or two before we passed through. Most of the peaks had a light coating of termination dust which also added to the beauty! We did have 1/2 day of heavy snow along the Cassiar, but it was sticking to the road and made the scenery all that more impressive!
We had fall colors all the way to the bottom end of Fraser Canyon in BC.
We did almost the same trip in 2012 that started 10 days later with similar results. Leaving that late you will have freezing temps at night and possibly some snowy driving conditions. I'm sure it is nothing your DH can't handle! 🙂

[hr0082]

This morning on the Hurricane Turn Train Facebook page, they had a beautiful post of the fall colors, with a rainbow in the background. We took the train back in July or August and had a great time. I spent most of my time in the baggage car, visiting with the locals who were on board with their dogs. The car doors were open and I was able to totally enjoy the views.

More and more, I am thinking that I want to return to Alaska next year and if we do, I will try to stay until the Fall colors are present and I will do the train ride again. I highly recommend it, regardless of the time of year. If you have two or more taking the ride, be sure and get a Tour Saver Book so you can get the buy one get one free. That alone will nearly pay for the book. We also used it for the Lu-Lu Belle and the Stan Stephens glacier cruises in Valdez. Next year, I want to do the cruise out of Seward.

If we do go, this will be our 4th trip in 5 years. My only regret is that we did not purchase an RV immediately upon retirement in 1999 and start making the Alaska trip way back then.

[wanderingdawgs]

I'm so glad I came across this thread! I enjoyed reading all the comments.

For those of you who are unsure about making the trip, all I can say is just do it! And don't wait until you are too old to enjoy it!

We made the journey from Georgia in 2013. Our trip was over 14,500 miles pulling a 35 foot fifth wheel. Yes there are places where the roads are bad but as someone else said, it is a small price to pay for the experience! My only regret is we didn't go when we were younger.

Our favorite place was Haines. The most exciting thing we did was take a flightseeing trip from Talkeetna and land on a Glacier. A really fun excursion was taking the Hurricane Turn train ride on the Alaska railroad from Talkeetna - I highly recommend it. We left our RV in Fairbanks and drove to Coldfoot and back in one day. We drove from Dawson City to Chicken on Top of the World highway. I could go on and on.

Click the link in my signature to visit my blog with posts about our adventures and maps of where we went.