12 Volt Receptacle on TT

[exgman1]

Good evening, I'm brand-new to this forum and appreciate your patience until I learn the rules. I'd like to install a 12 volt/cigarette lighter-type receptacle on the rear of my TT. From time to time I need a 12 volt work light, etc., at the rear of the trailer. It's a 2009, 29' aluminum Jayco G2 Jay Flight Series (all season) trailer. Any and all suggestions, positive and/or negative will be appreciated. Thank you.

[ktmrfs]

RoyB wrote:
I would get a high quality 12VDC MARINE QUALITY receptacle with protective lid...

I am not much of a 12VDC receptacle fan and alot of the ones I have ended up using seem to get hot on me and melt wiring in the plug etc. I have two installed on my POPUP trailer and did get the good ones from BLUE SEA - Ordered thru AMAZON... If high current is going to be used I would also get a matched set of the receptacle and mating 12VDC plug. I would be very cautious of using the cheaper 12VDC type receptacles and plugs you find at the local auto parts places...

This area has been a very weak point for my limited use of these type of 12VDC plugs.

d

x2. Blue sea or marinco 12V plugs/recepticals are amongst the few "cig lighter" systems worth using. They are well designed and the plugs especially are very robust.

I've used them for years and have been trouble free. it's a "get what you pay for" thing.

[DAWg134]

10 gauge wire might be a bit overkill, depending upon how you intend to use the power outlet. For a 25-foot long cable using 12 gauge wire, the voltage drop: is only 0.79 Vdc for a 10 ampere load, or 6.58%. That still leaves you with 11.21 Vdc at the plug. Increasing the cable size to 10 gauge, you can still expect a 0.50 Vdc drop for the same 10 A load, or a 4.7% drop.

A few additional suggestions:

1) Install a separate inline 10-15A fuse at the battery/power supply end of the circuit. That way, if there is a short circuit somewhere along your 25-foot cable between the power supply end and the plug end, the fuse will blow and protect against a possible fire situation. You can purchase inline fuse holders that are equipped with an LED that illuminates if the fuse is blown (yet the circuit is still intact). Conversely, you can also install a standard fuse holder and purchase individual fuses that are each equipped with an LED that illuminates when the fuse is blown. Doesn't cost much more than a non-illuminated solution, regardless of which way you go.

2) Include a "drip loop" at each end of the cable so that condensation occurring along the length of the cable will drip onto the ground and not run into the back of your connectors. Most weatherproof and water resistant connectors aren't exactly waterproof, so do what you can to seal the connections (e.g., silicone RTV sealant or connector grease) and direct water away from them as much as possible. Most of the failures of connectors on boats that I have examined have occurred due to water intrusion on the backside.

3) Use the trailer chassis to carry the ground circuit, but make sure the connection at the plug end is protected as much as practical from the elements. If you're planning the typical nut/bolt/washer/lock washer combination in conjunction with a crimp-on ring terminal, then a) use a weatherproof terminal, and b) use stainless steel or brass hardware.

[exgman1]

Thanks Doug, I hadn't thought about trolling motor plugs. They are certainly more heavy duty. I have a trolling motor on my pontoon boat that I use to fish for Redfish and Speckled Trout in the Indian River here on Florida's east coast but completely overlooked that idea. Thanks again. Mike

[exgman1]

Thanks for your input, Matt and Guy. It will certainly be considered in my final decision. I wish for you both a healthy and happy week-end. Mike

[DougE]

10 gauge wire would be plenty. It's about as big as you can go without having issues crimping on connectors. I would suggest trolling motor plugs as outlets. They're good for much higher amperages than the cigarette lighter type but look the same except for the prongs. I made short adapters to transition from the trolling motor plug to a cigarette plugs, just in case.

[Matt_Colie]

I mostly work on boats (well, did before the depression) and I got this a lot. "I want an outside lighter" (I call it a mousehole). My response after the first few disasters was "No, you don't."

Those power connections could qualify as a complete POS, but there are too many pieces missing.

What you what to do is find a place that is inside and protected, but easily accessed. No mater what quality receptacle you put outside, it might last the first season if you are lucky. Boats wouldn't even finish the season. Use wire that is as heavy as you can manage and put a set of binding posts (see radshck 274-550) at the end. Connect the mousehole to that. Then when the plug and receptacle screw up, you can just tie onto the binding posts.

Matt

[GuyM]

One important point I see no reference to. The size of the wire and fuse is dependent on the capacity of the power point you get. The power points will have an amperage rating on it and you want to size the wire and fuse accordingly.

[exgman1]

Thanks for the photos of the plugs and suggestions on where and how to run the wire. However, it appears that it will be much easier to run it alongside the frame with a heavier gauge wire. The fuse panel is located inside, mid-coach. Thank you.

[RoyB]

I would get a high quality 12VDC MARINE QUALITY receptacle with protective lid...

I am not much of a 12VDC receptacle fan and alot of the ones I have ended up using seem to get hot on me and melt wiring in the plug etc. I have two installed on my POPUP trailer and did get the good ones from BLUE SEA - Ordered thru AMAZON... If high current is going to be used I would also get a matched set of the receptacle and mating 12VDC plug. I would be very cautious of using the cheaper 12VDC type receptacles and plugs you find at the local auto parts places...

This area has been a very weak point for my limited use of these type of 12VDC plugs.

[time2roll]

Like this?



Get the double or triple if needed.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=101695&catalogId=10001&...

You will need to get under there and find the frame or a bracket to attach the item.

If you attach to the frame I would use that as the negative connection and pull some #10 wire from the battery to the back. Just run the wire under the trailer and zip tie as needed. Need a 20a fuse up by the battery.

[Peg_Leg]

Where's your converter and fuse panel located?

I might be easier, or at least a shorter, to run power from the fuse panel.

[exgman1]

Thank you all for your suggestions! They all sound like what I had hoped to hear. I will post, within the next few weeks, the results of my efforts per your suggestions. Again, I really appreciate all of your responses. I wish for you all a healthy and happy upcoming week-end.

[hmknightnc]

I would use 8 or 10ga wire and a 25 amp fuse. The suggestion above to use a rearward compartment to keep it out of the weather is a really good idea. If that is not possible I would mount behind the bumper (between bumper and TT rear end) to give it as much protection as possible for stuff hitting it. If you have a rearward compartment to mount it you can still run the wire under the trailer (easy) and then just drill a small hole in the floor to run the wire up into the compartment. Seal the hole with either expanding foam spray or semi-flexible Dicor.

[Hornnumb2]

If you have a compartment near the rear you could put one in there so it would be out of the weather.