2 Battery banks built from 6 volts
Hi all, I did a quick search of the forum but couldn't find what I was looking for. I have a 2018 17ft Jayco travel trailer. The majority of our camping is in the middle of nowhere. (boondocking) ...
Forum Discussion
I did this almost exact same thing. I have posted about it, but will have to search later, or you can through my post…
I have a truck camper and the only place to have 2 6-volts were in the truck bed. The TC has a place for only one battery. I have 3 batteries (two battery banks to be more exact).
I keep them charged with solar from the camper roof. I have two dedicated solar systems. One 100 watt to charge the TC battery and two 100-watts (200) to charge the batts in the truck bed. The truck bed batteries stay with the truck all the time. I used Anderson plugs to connect them to the TC.
The solar panels stay with the camper all the time.
Before I disconnect the truck and camper from each other I have a switch to direct both the solar panel banks to charge the one TC battery. I do this per charge controller instructions to never disconnect the battery ad leave the solar panel hooked up.
When in storage I just cover one panel bank with something to block the sun. This way only one controller is charging the one battery.
To answer your question I would suggest when charging the truck bed batteries off the generator to just use a battery charger. This is faster than the weak camper DC converter anyway. When you want to charge the camper's batts then just plug the camper in as usual. If you want to charge the trucks batts and have the camper plugged in then you will need to disconnect (of flip the breaker) camper DC charger/DC power supply. I guess you can charge both at the same time though also.
Using a battery charger is a faster way to charge your camper batteries also.
At minimum l would suggest two solar panels for each of the pairs of batteries. so, that 4 panels/ 400 watts total.
With an MPPT controller you can run the panels in series (24 volts) and get more out of the limited sunlight you have so far north. The controller will know to drop the voltage for a 12 volt battery bank.
You can also run smaller gauge wire with 24 volts, or run the same gauge wire and run it longer when at 24 volts. There are charts for this.
You will need a long run to reach your truck bed batts. Seems that having the panels all on the camper roof is easiest way, so everyone here will suggest to attache the camper to the truck with Anderson plugs, get the big ones, and use big wire, like big jumper cable size wire to run up to the truck. You will need zip ties and to crawl under the truck to make the cable run.
Use a mechanical solenoid so you can also charge the bed batts off the running alternator. Use a toggle switch in the dash so you can control when of if you will charge the batteries. With solar maybe you will never need the alternator.
A big diode will work, but there is always a little bit of voltage drop with those, and you still will want to control the on/off charge selection.
I got power off my starter 12 volt bolt location. You will never be starting the motor and charging the batts at the same time, so might as well use the existing wiring. Be careful, that wire is always hot.
plan the shortest route possible, and put the solenoid (or diode) as close to the power source as possible, so you can switch off the majority of cable as possible just in case there is a short along the wire in the future.
I have a truck camper and the only place to have 2 6-volts were in the truck bed. The TC has a place for only one battery. I have 3 batteries (two battery banks to be more exact).
I keep them charged with solar from the camper roof. I have two dedicated solar systems. One 100 watt to charge the TC battery and two 100-watts (200) to charge the batts in the truck bed. The truck bed batteries stay with the truck all the time. I used Anderson plugs to connect them to the TC.
The solar panels stay with the camper all the time.
Before I disconnect the truck and camper from each other I have a switch to direct both the solar panel banks to charge the one TC battery. I do this per charge controller instructions to never disconnect the battery ad leave the solar panel hooked up.
When in storage I just cover one panel bank with something to block the sun. This way only one controller is charging the one battery.
To answer your question I would suggest when charging the truck bed batteries off the generator to just use a battery charger. This is faster than the weak camper DC converter anyway. When you want to charge the camper's batts then just plug the camper in as usual. If you want to charge the trucks batts and have the camper plugged in then you will need to disconnect (of flip the breaker) camper DC charger/DC power supply. I guess you can charge both at the same time though also.
Using a battery charger is a faster way to charge your camper batteries also.
At minimum l would suggest two solar panels for each of the pairs of batteries. so, that 4 panels/ 400 watts total.
With an MPPT controller you can run the panels in series (24 volts) and get more out of the limited sunlight you have so far north. The controller will know to drop the voltage for a 12 volt battery bank.
You can also run smaller gauge wire with 24 volts, or run the same gauge wire and run it longer when at 24 volts. There are charts for this.
You will need a long run to reach your truck bed batts. Seems that having the panels all on the camper roof is easiest way, so everyone here will suggest to attache the camper to the truck with Anderson plugs, get the big ones, and use big wire, like big jumper cable size wire to run up to the truck. You will need zip ties and to crawl under the truck to make the cable run.
Use a mechanical solenoid so you can also charge the bed batts off the running alternator. Use a toggle switch in the dash so you can control when of if you will charge the batteries. With solar maybe you will never need the alternator.
A big diode will work, but there is always a little bit of voltage drop with those, and you still will want to control the on/off charge selection.
I got power off my starter 12 volt bolt location. You will never be starting the motor and charging the batts at the same time, so might as well use the existing wiring. Be careful, that wire is always hot.
plan the shortest route possible, and put the solenoid (or diode) as close to the power source as possible, so you can switch off the majority of cable as possible just in case there is a short along the wire in the future.
