Adding a valve on the toilet?

I added a cheap plastic ball valve with Barb fittings years ago and it works great . The next thing I'm going to do is add a ball valve upstream of the spray down because it uses way more water than necessary also . Craig

If you do add in a supply line valve, you may want a "Full Flow" ball valve. I put one on every supply line in my trailer, not for limiting water but for event of a fixture failing. If a faucet leaks or the toilet breaks, I can still operate the rest of the fresh water system.

Bill.Satellite wrote:

It's nothing more than learning a new routine.

I bet this would not be a problem if operating off the pump, or at least not as much of a problem.

Maybe his valve idea isn't bad after all because any permanent restriction in the line probably would cause there to not be enough water with the low pressure pump.

Hi,
I did this very thing with a Sharkbite valve.
A great low priced mod that really helps reduce water usage (we use recycled shower and sink water) and increases the number of days we can go between dumping the black tank.

plasticmaster wrote:
Just to clarify, this is our second camper. My first camper and this one both have 30 gallon black tanks. I never trust the sensors to tell if it is full. I shine a flash light down the toilet to tell. We're a family of four. My last camper, we could go around 8 or 9 days before the black tank would get full. This camper is about 4 days. Exact same toilet usage practices, and yes, I make sure I have a full black tank before dumping it. The difference is that for the quick moment that you press the pedal, a tremendous amount of water goes through the toilet, whereas only a small amount went through on my old camper. And yes, I'm using a pressure regulator on the park water spigot before it comes into the camper. Basically, I want to dial down the amount of water that goes into the toilet so that it behaves like the toilet in my old camper. I hope this makes sense.

Are you not able to tell the folks stepping on the pedal to not step as long? It sounds (to me) that you have a very efficient system and it's just a matter of making the necessary adjustments on your part without any hardware changes on the campers part. It you used to fill the 30 Gal. black tank in 8 or 9 days then you should also be able to go 8 or 9 days in your new coach with a 30 Gal. black tank. It's nothing more than learning a new routine.

Here's one at Home Depot. A little expensive but high quality. SharkBite Pex valve No special tools needed.
All you have to do is cut the tubing very straight and clean (razor blade works good), slide the small white pieces supplied with the valve inside the tubing and then push the whole tube into the Shark Bite fitting.

There are simpler, cheaper plastic valves too - that's what I installed many years ago but I'm having trouble finding those.

If your anywhere near Bothell Wa. I have a spare you can have.

EDIT: Found the one I used on Amazon: Flair-it pex vavle

This one is very easy to use. Simply cut the pipe straight, slip the collars down the ends of the pipe and then shove the two ends of the pipe onto the Flair-It fitting. Use a hair drier to heat up the Pex pipe and it will easily slide over the barbs on the fitting. Then snug down the collars.
I've had this one installed for 7 or 8 years.

Dutch_12078 wrote:
Watts, SeaTech, Gatorbite, Sharkbite, etc., all make quick connect inline valves that only require a sharp utility knife for installation. Any of the large home improvement stores will have one brand or another.

I installed a 'shut off' valve on toilet supply line...not to reduce flow but to stop flow if needed to work on toilet (rest of RV still would have water!)

1/2" PEX.....
Cut it into and installed a Sharkbite valve.
Simple snap on ---no tools required except my hands.
'C' clip removal tool needed to take valve off PEX

BarneyS wrote:
The amount of water per flush is determined by how much you put in the bowl to begin with and how long you hold down the flush pedal.

That would be my assumption too......but it might not be correct in his case.

If his toilet is a different design so that he can NOT control the amount of water in a flush......then replacing the toilet with a different model might be the best solution. And not all that expensive either.

Watts, SeaTech, Gatorbite, Sharkbite, etc., all make quick connect inline valves that only require a sharp utility knife for installation. Any of the large home improvement stores will have one brand or another.

A quick internet search found a company that sells this stuff so they have lots of pics.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/PEX-Valves-21837000

You do need a special tool and crimps to work with pex though. A good investment if you have pex plumbing.