BACKGROUND
While camping we use the trailer's corner stabilizing jacks and we chock the wheels securely. Nevertheless, when someone is moving around in the trailer it's easily felt by those who are stationary. That's what led us to this mod - a third set of stabilizing jacks near the centre of the trailer to reduce the bounce and wiggle when parked.
These are scissor jacks rated at 2268 kg (5000 lbs) each. We got the pair on sale at Princess Auto for just under $50.
ISSUES
On the curb side of the trailer there is a propane line attached to and hanging down from the inside of the frame - you can see it in the photo above. My first thought was to use a spacer.
On closer inspection, I found I could centre the flange by grinding off a bit of the jack brackets.
(As it turns out, x=3/8")
Excess removed.
The brackets are painted and reinstalled on the jack.
While camping we use the trailer's corner stabilizing jacks and we chock the wheels securely. Nevertheless, when someone is moving around in the trailer it's easily felt by those who are stationary. That's what led us to this mod - a third set of stabilizing jacks near the centre of the trailer to reduce the bounce and wiggle when parked.
These are scissor jacks rated at 2268 kg (5000 lbs) each. We got the pair on sale at Princess Auto for just under $50.
ISSUES
On the curb side of the trailer there is a propane line attached to and hanging down from the inside of the frame - you can see it in the photo above. My first thought was to use a spacer.
On closer inspection, I found I could centre the flange by grinding off a bit of the jack brackets.
(As it turns out, x=3/8")
Excess removed.
The brackets are painted and reinstalled on the jack.
SoundGuy wrote:JD and Beastlet wrote:
I set up a 5-1/2" stop block on my mitre saw and got to work. Total yield from the four planks: 68 pads.
With the spreading wheel chocks installed and the highest possible set of blocks under each jack, it seemed to be firmer... but it's hard to test with one, so when Dawn comes home we'll have the official word.
If these aren't good enough, no worries - the pads become firewood and we consider other options. Like STEADYfast. ๐
OR JT Strong Arm Lock Stabilizers OR BAL Lock-Arm Stabilizing Bar ... lots of choices. ๐ I just haven't found it necessary to go that far with any of the dual axle trailers we've owned, finding BAL X-Chocks sufficient. Of course a third set of centre mounted stabs as you've done has always been a popular mod that many find quite effective, 'though I'd probably have first tried a set of adjustable stacker jacks instead.
I know you enjoy a challenge John but using so many blocks under each stabilizer is IMO way overkill when all you need is just a sufficient number so the stabs aren't fully extended in order to reach the ground. Some time ago I was gifted a set of 16 plastic blocks so I secured them together in sets of 4 each and use those as required under the stabs and have yet to run into any situation in which that number weren't sufficient ...
Of course they're far lighter than all those wood blocks you've assembled yet their footprint is also more than twice that of your 5.5" x 5.5" blocks.
Since our driveway slopes significantly toward the street I also use these same plastic blocks, two 4x stacks under the front stabs, none under the rear, so they in effect see full time use throughout the camping season. Here in Canadaland plastic blocks like these are of course way too costly, as is just about anything else RV related, but even the venerable Lynx Levelers are a mere $30+ US for a set of 10 at US WallyWorld stores. ๐
We're bringing the blocks to PEI with us for a full-on camping test. I'll report back on how well our new attempts at stabilization actually work.
JD and Beastlet wrote:
I set up a 5-1/2" stop block on my mitre saw and got to work. Total yield from the four planks: 68 pads.
With the spreading wheel chocks installed and the highest possible set of blocks under each jack, it seemed to be firmer... but it's hard to test with one, so when Dawn comes home we'll have the official word.
If these aren't good enough, no worries - the pads become firewood and we consider other options. Like STEADYfast. ๐
OR JT Strong Arm Lock Stabilizers OR BAL Lock-Arm Stabilizing Bar ... lots of choices. ๐ I just haven't found it necessary to go that far with any of the dual axle trailers we've owned, finding BAL X-Chocks sufficient. Of course a third set of centre mounted stabs as you've done has always been a popular mod that many find quite effective, 'though I'd probably have first tried a set of adjustable stacker jacks instead.
I know you enjoy a challenge John but using so many blocks under each stabilizer is IMO way overkill when all you need is just a sufficient number so the stabs aren't fully extended in order to reach the ground. Some time ago I was gifted a set of 16 plastic blocks so I secured them together in sets of 4 each and use those as required under the stabs and have yet to run into any situation in which that number weren't sufficient ...
Of course they're far lighter than all those wood blocks you've assembled yet their footprint is also more than twice that of your 5.5" x 5.5" blocks.
Since our driveway slopes significantly toward the street I also use these same plastic blocks, two 4x stacks under the front stabs, none under the rear, so they in effect see full time use throughout the camping season. Here in Canadaland plastic blocks like these are of course way too costly, as is just about anything else RV related, but even the venerable Lynx Levelers are a mere $30+ US for a set of 10 at US WallyWorld stores. ๐
I took some measurements and did some calculations, arriving at a modular set that could be made for each jack from 2 x 6 lumber: Blocks of 4, 3, 2 and 1 pads each. Since 2 x 6s are actually 1-1/2" x 5-1/2", square pads would be 5-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 1-1/2" and 60 of them would be needed. That's 4 8' lengths of 2 x 6, CAD 4.89 each.
I set up a 5-1/2" stop block on my mitre saw and got to work. Total yield from the four planks: 68 pads.
Cabinetmaker's glue was used to join the blocks together; each was rotated 90ยบ from the one below it to cross the grain. Blocks were stacked on blocks to provide clamping pressure. Just eyeball carpentry - nothing fancy.
The six sets fit perfectly in the Rubbermaid bin I was hoping to use for storage.
As you can imagine, pads cut with a mitre saw might have a splinter or two looking for a host hand. So I brought my router table outside, fitted with a slightly retracted 3/8" roundover bit.
Test pad looks good...
... so I did them all.
With the spreading wheel chocks installed and the highest possible set of blocks under each jack, it seemed to be firmer... but it's hard to test with one, so when Dawn comes home we'll have the official word.
If these aren't good enough, no worries - the pads become firewood and we consider other options. Like STEADYfast. ๐
I set up a 5-1/2" stop block on my mitre saw and got to work. Total yield from the four planks: 68 pads.
Cabinetmaker's glue was used to join the blocks together; each was rotated 90ยบ from the one below it to cross the grain. Blocks were stacked on blocks to provide clamping pressure. Just eyeball carpentry - nothing fancy.
The six sets fit perfectly in the Rubbermaid bin I was hoping to use for storage.
As you can imagine, pads cut with a mitre saw might have a splinter or two looking for a host hand. So I brought my router table outside, fitted with a slightly retracted 3/8" roundover bit.
Test pad looks good...
... so I did them all.
With the spreading wheel chocks installed and the highest possible set of blocks under each jack, it seemed to be firmer... but it's hard to test with one, so when Dawn comes home we'll have the official word.
If these aren't good enough, no worries - the pads become firewood and we consider other options. Like STEADYfast. ๐
