Converting Dual Generator to Run off RV Quick Disconnects

Nice Job,
I like the idea. It's nice to have options but in general I want to place the genset farther away form the RV. A 20# or 30# tank would allow a lot more flexibility as to where to position the genset vs. the hose.
I see the hose as more of a limit and liability vs. the freedom provided by an additional tank.
I guess there is no harm in having the option to connect to RV or use a tank.
I don't do NASCAR camping but I can see where having the genset close the RV would be beneficial at a race track. Otherwise I want the genset farther away than the hose allows.
Consider putting quick connects on the regulator you removed so that you could easily put the regulator back into the system and connect to a propane tank with out using any tools.

Well today is day #5 Boondocking out at Tucker Lake. I have put 11 hours on the generator all on propane off of the quick connector and I've left it attached while not in use. I've ran the AC for a few hours in the late afternoon to cool it off for the kids, but the furnace has been on overnight. I'm still on my first 30 LBS tank so I know forsure I have no leaks anywhere. Very pleased with this setup give it a go.

I pulled it off the Firman website.

There are three PDF’s under the “Download” tab.

WH02942 3200/2900 WATT DUAL FUEL INVERTER PORTABLE GENERATOR

:):)

Thanks for the info NRALIFR.

I'm just happy it works, you say you have the schematic for my machine?

Good job Mike.

Jut as an FYI, the blue “regulator” device is not really to regulate the LP pressure. That is being handled by the regulator at your LP cylinders. It should be adjusted to maintain about 11” of water column pressure, and I try to adjust it while it’s regulating one of its larger loads.

There are two safety items that every Propane or natural gas powered engine needs. One is a positive fuel cut or shutoff solenoid that is held open electrically. If power to the solenoid fails, it closes. It appears the blue device at the end of the LP hose functions as the fuel cut solenoid. It also appears to have a diaphragm as part of it, which is probably to sense the LP pressure coming from the cylinder. I suspect it needs to sense a minimum amount of pressure on both the tank side and the generator side (In other words, no leaks) before it allows the solenoid to remain open.

The second item is a device that only allows the fuel to flow into the intake manifold while it’s running. That device is usually referred to as a “zero governor” or a “demand regulator”. It’s strictly an on/off device that only opens when certain preconditions exist. In the case of your generator, the controller must sense that the engine crankshaft is rotating.

On many LP powered generators, sensing that the engine is running is purely mechanical, by means of a demand regulator that can sense vacuum in the engine intake manifold. Yours appears to be controlling the demand regulator electrically. The schematic for your generator shows a second fuel solenoid under the main covers close to the engine, and I suspect that functions as the demand regulator, that only opens when crankshaft rotation is sensed.

:):)

Theres always the possibility of a leak with any connection. Use proper tape and check each connection you make with a proper leak detector fluid. I can guarantee every connection I have is solid as can be and zero leak from the disconnect. I wouldn't accept any loss of fuel.

I use quick connects on air hoses from my air compressor and it is not uncommon for them to leak a little.
Therefore I've often wondered if L.P. quick connects ever leak ?

Just to keep in mind. Different colored acme nuts that screw onto a propane cylinder have different BTU ratings.

Black typically found on BBQ grills allows for propane flow to support 70000 BTU.

Green typically used on trailer pigtails allows for propane flow to support 200,000 BTU. As long as your total BTU requirement for the generator, furnace, stove, water heater, fire pit and fridge are less than 200,000, you should be good to go. Otherwise, you might need to step up to a red acme nut and you might need a different regulator.

Red typically allows for propane flow to support 400,000 BTU. The only time I've ever seen the red ones in use was on a Papa John's trailer that had six 40 lb propane cylinders mounted on the tongue. All six were connected in pairs flowing through 3 regulators to supply propane for the pizza ovens inside.

Very happy to report it works perfectly! 

I've turned on the furnace HW tank and stove while running the generator under heavy load (microwave) and it is PURRRFECT!

Just remove your first stage regulator from your propane Generators regulator, get a line on it with a quick connect and you're all set! 

For everyone asking how much pressure the gen needs I have no clue, I'm a simple F-18 technician with a passion for camping..

I'll get a video uploaded to youtube and share the link soon as I can't upload it to the forum. 

You tube Link:

https://youtu.be/o6K-mcbLndc

Much better link:

https://youtu.be/TKGZE8xPqDw

Happy Camping Yall!

Mika