Great underbelly enclosure videos

[profdant139]

For folks who (like me) are thinking about tackling this big modification project, I'd recommend these two videos:

Part I

Part II

The videos are kind of long, but I think that most of the length is necessary -- he explains what he is doing and why, and there are some very useful tips along the way. For example, he recommends removing the stabilizer jacks before installing the insulation and the coroplast, and then re-installing the jacks, thus providing a much better seal for the underbelly covering.

He also recommends undoing the propane lines as needed, so that they can pass through the insulation and the foam. That's a little worrisome -- I hate to disturb a non-leaking propane connection -- but I think his idea is worth considering, and I may imitate his method.

Watching the video carefully, I don't think he drilled pilot holes for his self-drilling screws. That method seemed to work well, so I need to re-think my plan to pre-drill everything.

[BobsYourUncle]

memtb wrote:

I was going to mention to you ....”not all self-tapping” screws are created equal! I tried some from the local Ace Hardware.....maybe they would self-tap aluminum, but not steel. Ended up buying some “high end” screws off of the internet.....issue solved!

You are certainly right about that one. I can't count how many times I've pitched screws in the garbage because that's where they belong.
Some self tapping screws will chew through almost anything while others won't go through tinfoil.

[memtb]

profdant139 wrote:
Bobs, those are great tips -- thanks!! Could I ask you to mention the brands of screws that have given you the best performance, if you feel comfortable doing so? No worries if you are not in a position to do that.

And you probably already know this, but the phrase "Bob's your uncle" probably refers to an episode of nepotism in Britain:

Arthur was the nephew of . . .

I was going to mention to you ....”not all self-tapping” screws are created equal! I tried some from the local Ace Hardware.....maybe they would self-tap aluminum, but not steel. Ended up buying some “high end” screws off of the internet.....issue solved!

[profdant139]

Thanks for that tip!!

[opnspaces]

I've pulled and installed my trailer underbelly more times than I care to remember. As BobsYourUncle states the Home Depot screws are complete junk. I have had screw after screw twist off before it even got through the frame. So I went to a local hardware store (Marshalls Industrial Hardware in San Diego) and paid a few dollars more I think $7 for a box of 100 screws. With this new box I did not twist off a single screw. I used #8 screws but they also have #10's on the site.

Grattan Fastening Products. www.grattanproducts.com.

Screw # 058020 zinc plated.

[allen8106]

agesilaus wrote:
Watching the video carefully, I don't think he drilled pilot holes for his self-drilling screws. That method seemed to work well, so I need to re-think my plan to pre-drill everything.
_____________________________________________________
He must have used super-screws if he drove them into the structural frame members. I suspect he just did not show the hole drilling.

Pilot holes are not required when you use a self-drilling screw like he did.

[BobsYourUncle]

profdant139 wrote:
Bobs, those are great tips -- thanks!! Could I ask you to mention the brands of screws that have given you the best performance, if you feel comfortable doing so? No worries if you are not in a position to do that.

And you probably already know this, but the phrase "Bob's your uncle" probably refers to an episode of nepotism in Britain:

Arthur was the nephew of . . .

No problem mentioning brand names, however the very high percentage of the screws I use come with the product. I used to be able to identify them by markings on the screw, but they don't seem to have that any more.

A brand I used to use years ago was the Star brand. They were the best 20 years ago. But, like everything, they vanished and are no longer available.
It's a bit hit and miss now. I've had both good and bad screws from the same supplier.

Bob's your uncle, yes a lot of funny stuff associated with the name!
I first used that moniker when I was younger and I had a bunch of nieces and nephews. I was uncle Bob to them. It just stuck with me and I use it all the time.

EEK! Bad typo auto mistake correction!

[RLS7201]

agesilaus wrote:

OK I looked on McMaster-Carr where they have just about everything mechanical and useful info on what the have. Look at this table and they are type 440 SS which comes as a bit of surprise to me since SS is usually not thought of as that strong.

410 stainless is very hard. It is used to hard surface many large industrial valves. I once resurfaced a 24" gate on a gate valve with 410 stainless. Took me most of the day with stick arc.

Richard

[profdant139]

Bobs, those are great tips -- thanks!! Could I ask you to mention the brands of screws that have given you the best performance, if you feel comfortable doing so? No worries if you are not in a position to do that.

And you probably already know this, but the phrase "Bob's your uncle" probably refers to an episode of nepotism in Britain:

Arthur was the nephew of . . .

[BobsYourUncle]

Just a little comment about self tapping screws:

I use them every day in my work, building patio covers, solariums, sunrooms and more. All these applications are done with self drilling, or self tapping, tek screws.

After 44 years of this work I've put a staggering amount of these screws in, and I've learned a few things. So anyways, to my point:

There are many types of these screws and varying quality. One company whose product I install uses the cheapest poor quality screws available. They just don't want to poke a hole in light aluminum extrusions. Other brands the screw goes in as if the hole is already there.
Some have a good drill point, others don't.

Pre drilling the holes works, but it is a bit time consuming.

A few hints:

1) Buy a decent quality screw! No cheap Chinese soft metal junk.

2) Don't use a screw with too small of a shank. A number 8 screw can and likely will labor to try to get through the metal. Move up to a number 10 or even 12 screw and it will cut its way through a lot faster and easier.

3) If you are leaning on the drill and the screw doesn't want to go through, try rotating the whole drill in small elliptical circles a bit. Not a lot, maybe 10 degrees max.

4) On the same line as point 3, if the screw is being stubborn, stop, run it in reverse while pushing hard for a second or 2, then go forward again. This unloads the drill point of a buildup of metal.

5) If all else fails, yeah, drill a pilot hole!

6) Use hex head screws. The US Phillip's head screws are dismal at best. Canadian Robertson is better, but you have to be real accurate at keeping the bit aligned perfect with the screw.

7) Use a clutch drill. If you're pushing hard and it suddenly goes in, the torque can snap the head off the screw, or the driver bit.

😎 Don't use stainless steel screws. They are soft, weak and will break. And they don't drill in worth a hoot.

Don't use cheap junk home handyman grade screws or drill bits from Home Depot or similar. Seek out an industrial supply store where the tradesmen shop. Buy your screws and bits there.
Don't forget your goggles... you'll be on your back with your work above you. Hot piece of steel in the eye isn't fun. Ask me how I know that.....

[agesilaus]

profdant139 wrote:
Well, I posted a comment on his video, and he just wrote me back saying that he did not drill pilot holes. I will try this on some thick scrap steel to see if I can do the same. I would have thought that it was not possible.

Ditto, I have had standard self drilling screws, the ones with a hex head, bind in a slightly small pilot hole. But maybe that's because the drill tip wasn't engaged because of the hole. I found this online:

"The sharp-tipped screws are designed for drilling their own hole into softer materials such as wood and plastic so they don't need a pilot hole. ... For thicker metal, it may require more than one screw to drill through the surface. To save time and labor, you can use self-drilling self-tapping screws to drill into metal."
How Stuff Works.....

OK I looked on McMaster-Carr where they have just about everything mechanical and useful info on what the have. Look at this table and they are type 440 SS which comes as a bit of surprise to me since SS is usually not thought of as that strong.

[profdant139]

Well, I posted a comment on his video, and he just wrote me back saying that he did not drill pilot holes. I will try this on some thick scrap steel to see if I can do the same. I would have thought that it was not possible.

[agesilaus]

Watching the video carefully, I don't think he drilled pilot holes for his self-drilling screws. That method seemed to work well, so I need to re-think my plan to pre-drill everything.
_____________________________________________________
He must have used super-screws if he drove them into the structural frame members. I suspect he just did not show the hole drilling.