Need to add a propane line with quick disconnect

[esox07]

Guys, I have been mulling over a good way to tap into my RV propane line to add a quick disconnect for my Weber grill. I am tired of lugging an extra 20lb tank around and the small 1lb cylinders is just as big of a pain.

Here is a photo of the business end of my RV's propane line under the camper.




What I was hoping to do was simply add a 3/8" flare Tee to the end 3/8" flare connection (water heater), then install the Tee fitting there and reconnect the water heater line to that and then the new quick disconnect to the second Tee. But, I have not been able to find a female 3/8" flare to dual male 3/8" flare connectors. Is there a better way to accomplish this with out completely redoing the whole setup. The problem is that the lines are copper and I don't want to have to do a lot of re-routing or re-coupling. Let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Bruce

Moderator edit to re-size image to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width.

[TUCQUALA]

Both female and male have shut-off built in to fitting. They are propane rated, and purchased from hydraulic shop. Almost 5yrs old, no leaks - checked annually.

[philh]

Tucquala,

I'm familiar with a female and shut-off quick disconnect, how does your male shutoff?

[StirCrazy]

DrewE wrote:
If you want a low-pressure line for the grill, you could disconnect the furnace and water heater from the existing adapter tee fitting, remove that tee fitting, add a black iron tee and a couple of short nipples, and put the existing adapter tee back on one of the nipples and connect an appropriate flare adapter fitting to the other nipple for the grill.

You'd need to bypass the existing regulator on the grill. On some (mostly inexpensive) grills that's not readily doable as the regulator and control valve are the same unit.

yup, that's how I would do it.


you want to keep it on the big pipe so your not splitting after a smaller section

Steve

[TUCQUALA]

Should be simple!! Black pipe female tee and short nipple for the old connection, and whatever needed for the new leg. Only concern may be how far you can move the copper pipes with the new tee and nipple installed.

Here is a pic of my connection, just a tee and a long nipple were needed to intall quick connect.

[ajriding]

You will need a flaring tool. rent or buy cheap.

1. Disconnect the hot water line from the existing tee.
2. Cut the hot water line shorter using a pipe cutter. Cut it more than 5 inches away from the existing tee.
3. Put the nut on the copper line that you just cut.
4. Flair the line on the water heater side.
5. Connect a 3-way male tee to the hot water side.
6. With the copper pipe you just cut eyeball measure how much to cut off so you can splice it in between the new tee and the existing tee.
7, Put two 3/8th nuts on the little copper pipe with threads facing out (note, you should have cut this small piece big enough to get two nuts on and still have room to flair it with the tool).
8. Flair the little copper pipe.
9. Attach the little copper pipe to both the new and the old tee.
10 The 3rd tee male fitting is available for your new appliance, so put a nut on a new pipe and flair it and attach.

so, looks like this requires 3 new 3/8 nuts.

If you have never flared then research carefully or else you WILL have a leak. It involves cleaning the fresh cut copper pipe to get rid of burrs and to return the pipe to a constant diameter and also flaring the pipe enough to make a good seal. Best if you find detailed instructions with video or photos.

[DrewE]

If you want a low-pressure line for the grill, you could disconnect the furnace and water heater from the existing adapter tee fitting, remove that tee fitting, add a black iron tee and a couple of short nipples, and put the existing adapter tee back on one of the nipples and connect an appropriate flare adapter fitting to the other nipple for the grill.

You'd need to bypass the existing regulator on the grill. On some (mostly inexpensive) grills that's not readily doable as the regulator and control valve are the same unit.

[CA_Traveler]

Either one with my setup as I have the high pressure to standard tank connector adapter which connects to the BBQ regulator.

Some posters have issues with 2 low pressure regulators (RV + BBQ) for a single BBQ. I could add a T for multiple BBQs if desired.

[time2roll]

OK and does the grill need full tank pressure, high pressure 12psi?, or low pressure 10.5" WC?

[CA_Traveler]

Is there a rubber hose at the tanks that would eliminate the copper concern? Otherwise cut and add as required.

I chose to install a high pressure T at the tank just moving the regulator and it's rubber hose. Also installed a shutoff valve for the BBQ. My initial 12' hose was a little restrictive so bought another 12'.