No Insulation in Enclosed Bottom

horton333 wrote:
I was a bit surprised to find there is no insulation under the plastized cardboard that encloses the tanks and the bottom of the trailer, at least not back as far as the water tank.

They have taken some care to seal out air, with foam sealing to the frame and where stuff cuts through, I take it the theory is just blast a lot of hot air in, forget efficiency.

Comments please?

Tracer Air 238.

You have to bear in mind the thermal mass concept. Insulation means it seals out warmth as much as is does cold. Typically campers only camp out on 'cool' weather, not cold. Warmth during the day is absorbed by the liquid, heat from the furnace slows if not stops the heat loss at night. If you look at the warm daytime hours compared to below freezing night hours it's not anywhere 50/50 so insulation would be of very little help in that case.

BTW, howdy neighbour, I'm about 20 minutes north east of you, but still have property in the south end of Aurora, just west of Yonge.

I ripped some 2X4's to create the added room to slip in the 2" foam board. the bottom of the frame enclosure is beveled so I maintained the bevel with 2" all around.

Any matted material would no be wise for sure.
From the brief look I had at mine I would likely go with thin foam boards as the cororplast (if that suggested name is the stuff they make election signs out of, which is what they used) is almost touching the front tank and that would seem the path of least resistance to protecting them - the water pipes I may just wrap with the hot water foam.
5-8 degrees would be enough to give me peace of mind about not having to winterize the lower pipes in the early or late season, both of which we tend to travel in.
I'll put it on my list for the fall.

Our unit came new with FG bat installed between the colorplast and the tanks. While it did help it was prone to getting water logged and molding if there was a water leak. Not to mention the increased weight on the colorplast it it indeed got soaked.
I dropped the colorplast 2 additional inches and replaced the FG with insulation board from HD as they supplied it in 1" 4X8 sheets vs Lowes 3/4" sheets. I also cut & pieced 2" of board around the frame perimeter.
This allowed me to reduce heat flow to the belly and divert it to supply the rear living area improving our comfort.
The new insulated belly maintains a 5-8°F differential in general overnight with the heat off. All in all I am pleased in how it turned out.

horton333 wrote:
Hi,
So working on a wiring issue that required removing a service plate I was a bit surprised to find there is no insulation under the plastized cardboard that encloses the tanks and the bottom of the trailer, at least not back as far as the water tank. They have taken some care to seal out air, with foam sealing to the frame and where stuff cuts through, I take it the theory is just blast a lot of hot air in, forget efficiency.
Is no insulation normal, or is mine just cheap, or do they come in various levels of insulation?
Comments please?

Tracer Air 238.

That is because the ACTUAL insulation is tucked inside the floor.

Typical floor construction is a bit like a ice cream sandwich.

There is a bottom layer of thin wood paneling.

2x2s are arranged across the bottom layer of paneling.

Then solid foam insulation is fit between the 2x2s then finally 3/8"-1/2" plywood subfloor or can also be MDF or strand board (IE "chip board) layer. All layers are stapled and glued together.

This type of a floor is much stronger bet yet lighter weight than if you used a 3/4" thick plywood floor and it gives you some R value in insulation. Also by creating the sandwich you are protecting the insulation from rodents and such.

.........
Self sticking insulation blankets are fairly easy. The tanks will take some measuring and cutting and ensuring they are covered thoroughly.
Further insulation support of fender washers and short screws and perhaps treated wood strips at intervals.
They also sell heating strips and pads that self adhere to tanks. Not much good going down the rad but plugged in would work great.

A possible solution. Go to Lowes and find what is currently available in self sticking insulation panels, or sheets. Lay out the measurments after carefully measuring underneath and stick these panels,, of foam and aluminum backing or what is currently available and also fasten with large fender washers and short screws, being careful of wiring water pipes and not to penetrate upper floor.
Not exactly a ten minute job and on the back not the easiest but should bholes with small expansion or high expansion foam then put the cloroplast back and seal like factory. should bee pretty straight forward. Seal any places like the factory did and more.
It is jsut an idea and there others perhaps better.

WyoTraveler wrote:
That covering is most likely Coroplast. Although it doesn't have actual R value it closes off the area. Wind blowing under an RV if moving or parked can cause the tanks to freeze. The Coroplast covering seals off the area. Adding heat prevents the tanks from freezing. My previous Jayco TT had Coroplast underside vovering and I never had a freezing problem down to about 5 above zero. I doubt it is very practical to even live in an RV below those temps.

I think you pretty well summed it up. Coroplast, even without insulation above it, is better than no coroplast. A few years ago some manufactures were touting better "aerodynamics" (smooth bottom, less air turbulence, less drag) while traveling down the highway. I doubt that it made any difference in gas mileage.

So far -2 or 3 is about all I asked of it and things worked fine, nice to have the toasty floors. The lack of insulation is something to consider I guess if I did go out in the real winter, it looks fairly easy to add some.
Thanks.

That covering is most likely Coroplast. Although it doesn't have actual R value it closes off the area. Wind blowing under an RV if moving or parked can cause the tanks to freeze. The Coroplast covering seals off the area. Adding heat prevents the tanks from freezing. My previous Jayco TT had Coroplast underside vovering and I never had a freezing problem down to about 5 above zero. I doubt it is very practical to even live in an RV below those temps.