Resealing my steel roof
Well after our trip to the Yukon last September I inspected the roof and found a few spots of concern. Unfortunately our October had one rain free afternoon all month, and then (as most here will know) the winter was much worse than usual. So I am now just seeing to it.
After talking to a local rv service rep about eternabond tape, and seeing he was clueless to the fact that eternabond is supposed to be steel rolled to initiate it's patented adhesion. I guess they hand apply and rub it down and consider it done. So I believe in this case it is a matter of I'm better off doing it myself, if for no other reason than peace of mind.
After spending a few hours removing the old stuff along the driverside and all around the bathroom vent, I'm glad it's me doing the work myself (except it actually sucks doing the work). I have already found two issues. I don't know how they did it, but somebody made a large hole in my vent cap.
It looks like a cutting disc did it, also it's cracked around a few screws that look over tightened. I also found a small gouge in my metal roof right along the rail. I would rather find all the flaws myself and make sure they are repaired as best as possible. I will get a new vent cap that has the vortex head to "pull" odor out, and the gouge will be dealt with in the new seal job.
What I seem to have on the roof right now is two thin layers of rubber coating, which appear to have been applied consecutively. I say this because the top coat obviously shows weathering, but the undercoat looks clean. Under the rubber coatings is a very hard bondo like material that I suspect is from the factory (1989). I believe the bondo like material is degrading in some areas enough that the thin rubber coatings has cracked over the degraded areas from flexing during road travel. So I am removing everything down to the metal roof around all seals. The rubber coating is holding well in the flat areas so I plan on leaving that stuff for now.
What it looks like
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.
My initial plan was to clean out the old stuff as best as possible, and use acetone and non-chlorinated brake cleaner (what eternacleaner is apparently)then rinse off and dry. Then I was going to use dicor lap sealent for both sides of the rail, and then apply the eternabond 4" tape. Eterna people say not to stretch their tape at all, that is why I am going to use the dicor to fill in the 90 degree angle, and then the tape on top. I am now wondering if I should take off the rail and apply the tape directely to the seam, then lay the rail on top and use the dicor on the screw heads. or even applying more tape on top of rail, doubling the amount of tape used ($) for a longer term fix.
So I am asking for general advice and relative experiences to help on my way. I used the tape and dicor when I installed my fantasic fan, and it seems to be doing very well so far. Other than that I have no experience.
My initial plan
Click For Full-Size Image.
the strip in the rail will still be in place for this set up, held solid by the bondo like stuff. I forgot to add that to my beautiful graphic.
ok another edit. After more research I am thinking I may be over doing it. Seems like a really good cleaning and apply the tape should be good for years. So I may just feel along all joins and repair the bad spots. Dig it out and use dicor to build it up, then tape on top.
After talking to a local rv service rep about eternabond tape, and seeing he was clueless to the fact that eternabond is supposed to be steel rolled to initiate it's patented adhesion. I guess they hand apply and rub it down and consider it done. So I believe in this case it is a matter of I'm better off doing it myself, if for no other reason than peace of mind.
After spending a few hours removing the old stuff along the driverside and all around the bathroom vent, I'm glad it's me doing the work myself (except it actually sucks doing the work). I have already found two issues. I don't know how they did it, but somebody made a large hole in my vent cap.
It looks like a cutting disc did it, also it's cracked around a few screws that look over tightened. I also found a small gouge in my metal roof right along the rail. I would rather find all the flaws myself and make sure they are repaired as best as possible. I will get a new vent cap that has the vortex head to "pull" odor out, and the gouge will be dealt with in the new seal job.
What I seem to have on the roof right now is two thin layers of rubber coating, which appear to have been applied consecutively. I say this because the top coat obviously shows weathering, but the undercoat looks clean. Under the rubber coatings is a very hard bondo like material that I suspect is from the factory (1989). I believe the bondo like material is degrading in some areas enough that the thin rubber coatings has cracked over the degraded areas from flexing during road travel. So I am removing everything down to the metal roof around all seals. The rubber coating is holding well in the flat areas so I plan on leaving that stuff for now.
What it looks like
My initial plan was to clean out the old stuff as best as possible, and use acetone and non-chlorinated brake cleaner (what eternacleaner is apparently)then rinse off and dry. Then I was going to use dicor lap sealent for both sides of the rail, and then apply the eternabond 4" tape. Eterna people say not to stretch their tape at all, that is why I am going to use the dicor to fill in the 90 degree angle, and then the tape on top. I am now wondering if I should take off the rail and apply the tape directely to the seam, then lay the rail on top and use the dicor on the screw heads. or even applying more tape on top of rail, doubling the amount of tape used ($) for a longer term fix.
So I am asking for general advice and relative experiences to help on my way. I used the tape and dicor when I installed my fantasic fan, and it seems to be doing very well so far. Other than that I have no experience.
My initial plan
the strip in the rail will still be in place for this set up, held solid by the bondo like stuff. I forgot to add that to my beautiful graphic.
ok another edit. After more research I am thinking I may be over doing it. Seems like a really good cleaning and apply the tape should be good for years. So I may just feel along all joins and repair the bad spots. Dig it out and use dicor to build it up, then tape on top.
