Solar up and running
Picked up some panels from solar blvd finally installed and working pretty good. 2 160 watt mono panels
Forum Discussion
Very nice install! Did you wire the panels in series or parallel? If parallel, you're losing some of the befits of the MPPT charge controller, since when the sun gets low the voltage will dip below 12 volts. No biggie either way, its a slick and beautiful installation, just mentioning. And there's disadvantages to series too, like if one panel gets shaded it has the effect of shading both panels.
I'm in the process of doing a very similar install. Picked up a 320 watt 72 cell panel (about 48 volts) off Craigslist for $150, basically brand new. Its amazing how cheap these have gotten. I mounted it with beefy aluminum angle iron, which works nicely. I may install a second 300+ watt panel for goofs, since I have the roof space and they're basically free, and the controller can accept it.
I have 4 Trojan T105 6-volt batteries in my rig, and proudly don't have a generator. My generator compartment fits the 4 batteries beautifully, with room to spare for tools and extension chords. I don't need air conditioning where I live (coastal northern california), so the closest I ever come to needing aux power is when I run my furnace with that obnoxiously inefficient blower (80 watts!). But that'll be replaced soon enough with a catalytic heater.
I previously had two 100 watt panels going through an old style PWM charge controller, and I'm absolutely blown away by how much better this new system works. I thought I needed new batteries since every night my inverter would be whistling by about midnight, even if I only ran some music and LED lights. But with the new system I'm still at 12.2 volts even after very heavy use (including that **** furnace!).
Anyway, for folks still using their generator just to watch TV, there is a choice and its very cheap and easy. Not to mention infinitely nicer to your neighbors than running a generator aimed right at them.
The charge controller (this is the 30 amp version):
https://www.amazon.com/TRACER-3215RN-Solar-Charge-Controller/dp/B008KWPGAE
Or get the 40a version if you plan to add more panels:
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Tracer-Charge-Controller-100VDC/dp/B00E7NI9PE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475637903&sr=8-1
Optional but recommended remote monitoring:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KWPGLI/ref=pd_bxgy_86_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XNCRHVPRYFFWB5ZAH6AT
Don't scrimp on the wire:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D7VBLME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Make the wire run as short as possible since that's where your loss will be (though that's much less if you run 48 volt+ solar panels).
And go on Craigslist and get the largest solar panel you can fit. Search for 300 watt solar panels, which will usually be around 48 volts, and don't get an old style 12 volt panel since they're relatively ineffecient and don't take full advantage of MPPT technology. Mine is flat mounted on my roof and even during a rain storm the other day I was getting 3 amps of output! Try that with a 100 watt @ 12 volt panel.
Aluminum angle iron does a good job of mounting it for cheap without any disadvantage that I can see, and you can just cut one length to 6" sections and make 4 brackets.
And if you don't have an inverter yet, I heart Xantrex:
https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-806-1210-PROwatt-1000-Inverter/dp/B002I04A74/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475636093&sr=1-2&keywords=xantrex+inverter
Note the link to get the remote on/off switch, which is nice. Mount the inverter as close as possible to the batteries.
I have the 600 watt version of that inverter and have never needed more. One down and dirty way to connect the inverter to your RV's power so you can use the outlets, you can just make an extension chord with male plugs on both ends and connect your inverter to any power jack. But remember to remove the fuse from your battery charger when you use it or you'll be running your battery charger off your inverter.
I mounted the charge controller to the outside of the generator box (which is inside my camper, under the couch), and the remote monitoring box means I can still control it.
Mine is an older RV (a good ol 1989 Class C) and I removed the built in battery charger since it was oversized and noisy and replaced it with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Powermax-Supply-Converter-Charger-Pm3-55/dp/B00F8MC440/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475637308
Mounts nicely right in the battery box (previously the generator box). If I'm near power I plug it in, which powers my inverter. So my outlets are actually powered by my inverter, as opposed to by the outside power. If that bugs you, you could conceivably get fancy and rig up a transfer switch, but I can't imagine a reason to do that.
I'm in the process of doing a very similar install. Picked up a 320 watt 72 cell panel (about 48 volts) off Craigslist for $150, basically brand new. Its amazing how cheap these have gotten. I mounted it with beefy aluminum angle iron, which works nicely. I may install a second 300+ watt panel for goofs, since I have the roof space and they're basically free, and the controller can accept it.
I have 4 Trojan T105 6-volt batteries in my rig, and proudly don't have a generator. My generator compartment fits the 4 batteries beautifully, with room to spare for tools and extension chords. I don't need air conditioning where I live (coastal northern california), so the closest I ever come to needing aux power is when I run my furnace with that obnoxiously inefficient blower (80 watts!). But that'll be replaced soon enough with a catalytic heater.
I previously had two 100 watt panels going through an old style PWM charge controller, and I'm absolutely blown away by how much better this new system works. I thought I needed new batteries since every night my inverter would be whistling by about midnight, even if I only ran some music and LED lights. But with the new system I'm still at 12.2 volts even after very heavy use (including that **** furnace!).
Anyway, for folks still using their generator just to watch TV, there is a choice and its very cheap and easy. Not to mention infinitely nicer to your neighbors than running a generator aimed right at them.
The charge controller (this is the 30 amp version):
https://www.amazon.com/TRACER-3215RN-Solar-Charge-Controller/dp/B008KWPGAE
Or get the 40a version if you plan to add more panels:
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Tracer-Charge-Controller-100VDC/dp/B00E7NI9PE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475637903&sr=8-1
Optional but recommended remote monitoring:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KWPGLI/ref=pd_bxgy_86_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XNCRHVPRYFFWB5ZAH6AT
Don't scrimp on the wire:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D7VBLME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Make the wire run as short as possible since that's where your loss will be (though that's much less if you run 48 volt+ solar panels).
And go on Craigslist and get the largest solar panel you can fit. Search for 300 watt solar panels, which will usually be around 48 volts, and don't get an old style 12 volt panel since they're relatively ineffecient and don't take full advantage of MPPT technology. Mine is flat mounted on my roof and even during a rain storm the other day I was getting 3 amps of output! Try that with a 100 watt @ 12 volt panel.
Aluminum angle iron does a good job of mounting it for cheap without any disadvantage that I can see, and you can just cut one length to 6" sections and make 4 brackets.
And if you don't have an inverter yet, I heart Xantrex:
https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-806-1210-PROwatt-1000-Inverter/dp/B002I04A74/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475636093&sr=1-2&keywords=xantrex+inverter
Note the link to get the remote on/off switch, which is nice. Mount the inverter as close as possible to the batteries.
I have the 600 watt version of that inverter and have never needed more. One down and dirty way to connect the inverter to your RV's power so you can use the outlets, you can just make an extension chord with male plugs on both ends and connect your inverter to any power jack. But remember to remove the fuse from your battery charger when you use it or you'll be running your battery charger off your inverter.
I mounted the charge controller to the outside of the generator box (which is inside my camper, under the couch), and the remote monitoring box means I can still control it.
Mine is an older RV (a good ol 1989 Class C) and I removed the built in battery charger since it was oversized and noisy and replaced it with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Powermax-Supply-Converter-Charger-Pm3-55/dp/B00F8MC440/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475637308
Mounts nicely right in the battery box (previously the generator box). If I'm near power I plug it in, which powers my inverter. So my outlets are actually powered by my inverter, as opposed to by the outside power. If that bugs you, you could conceivably get fancy and rig up a transfer switch, but I can't imagine a reason to do that.
