What is your soil like? That does play a big part in what you can and should do. Here in central OH, we have a good amount of clay mixed into the soil. The day after a hefty rain, anything significant in weight, a camper, a truck etc, running over the lawn or worse bare dirt, will sink out of sight in the muck. Three days later, with the sun shining, that same dirt will be hard as concrete with 1/2" wide cracks in bare dirt.
At our prior Ohio place 30 minute south of our current place, I buried the K2500 Suburban and the camper in the front lawn in the spring, trying to back in and turn around on the lawn. Bad mistake... And it had not even rained the day before. It was just a soft spring Ohio clay lawn.
When we moved to the new place 30 miles north, I ensured the entire barnyard was big enough to turn the camper around in the yard any time of year.
I'm sharing a suggestion not knowing your soil. It will work in the muck we have. Take up the sod on top. Dig out at least 6 to 8" of soil. Fill with #304 or #411 limestone. Both of these grades have fines in them and will pack hard. The top will be slimy until a few rains wash the fines off the top. But after that, it will be solid any time of year. If you want later to make it look pretty, you and put a fine layer of crushed stone on top of your choice. I do not suggest using just #57 crushed stone deep, it moves around a lot. The 304/411's stay put with the fines in between.
For our current place, we dug out 6 to 8" and, in some places 10" to level it out and backfilled it with recycled asphalt. They grind it up off the highways. In my case, I rented a vibratory roller and packed it about every 3" of fill, and built it up. This was the cheapest fill. Come the hot summer months; it will start to reactivate and stick together. The bottom will become hard. I had 500 10-ton truckloads brought in. Yes, it is a big yard. Mine was as they ground it up off the highway, so it had some larger chunks in it. It is not an issue on the bottom layers, but I had to pick up the chucks on the top surfaces. Not a problem, just more work, but for the price, it was worth it. Some sellers of recycled asphalt have a grinder, and they process it before you get it. It costs more, but you do not have to deal with the chucks. You have to pack this and roll it. If not the first year, come summer, it will sink, compact itself, and you end up in ruts to deal with. Pack as they are installing it or right after but you need a really big roller (think road size needing a semi to transport) if you are trying to pack the entire drive on top only.
My driveway was put up in 2012, and it is still in great shape. In this area, recycled asphalt is becoming more popular.
Both of these suggestions are considered a permanent choice. Concrete is great, but it needs the proper base, or it will crack. Nowadays, they can add carbon fiber to the mix and or older wire. Pending the weight of your camper, you may want 6" in place of 4" to help the cracking.
If you are looking for temporary and cheap, and direct, get the 2 x 12"'s out and line them up. It will get old in time dealing with them; they warp, split and move around, but it is quick and cheaper. Been there, and learned that.
There is no real "cheap" solution to a permanent setup. Just options that cost less. As was stated by the other poster, if your area is wet as a normal thing, get underground drainage in first.
Hope this helps
John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.