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Took a chance, painted motorhome myself with a roller lol

nehuge
Explorer
Explorer
So after months of research about this "rolling and tipping" method of painting my Class A motorhome, I finally decided to tackle it.

It is a Phoenix Arizona RV, so over the years the sun has just absolutely killed it. It got yellowed, the decals all cracked, and not even a heatgun or 3M decal eraser wheel would remove it...only varnish stripper and razor blades not held like you're cutting under the decal, but the blade perpendicular to the surface and dragged back and forth to shave it off.. Varnish stripper can't sit too long or it'll eat into the fiberglass so it was an art. In other states I can see people peeling off their decals in one huge sheet....ya I wish.

There were a couple of products, Awlgrip, Interlux Perfection, and a couple others you can use for this method. They are 2 part polyurethanes so I chose that for durability and the "do it yourself" ease of use that they claim. They use it to paint boats and yachts so figure it durable.
I was worried that it would looked rolled on and just ...well..... "ghetto" especially since this was going to be outside and what about bugs, dirt, wind, etc? Oh My!

But as a total amateur, I figured screw it, it can't look any worse than it is. Also, I had 5 body shops quote me for about $10k to $12k. I asked "what if I do the sanding and masking?" They still said $7,000. The way Interlux works is that it is 425 square feet coverage per gallon for their primer and their paint. So figure 35 foot RV, 10 foot tall, plus front and back, blah blah...let's just say 900 square feet. Well, it has to be done in 2 coats of primer, and 2 coats of paint. So at 1,800 square feet worth of paint, You're painting the vehicle four times.....and sanding in between each coat. Ya, massive undertaking I know. I used 2 gallons of primer to do the 2 primer coats, and 2 gallons of color coat to do 2 coats. (Interlux color coat comes in quarts so gotta buy four quarts for every gallon so I bought 12 quarts at $75 each).


Here's how it played out with 2 of us doing it:

- 2 full weekends of 5 hours a day to remove decals = 20 hours
- 1 full weekend of 4 hours a day sanding to prep for primer = 8 hours
- 1 full weekend of 10 or 11 hours a day to add primer coat 1, sand, then cure overnight, then primer coat 2, sand for final coat = 22 hours
- 1 full weekend of 10 or 11 hours a day to paint color coat 1, sand, then color coat 2, = 22 hours

Doing this above alone? Double those hours to 160 for sure.

Half the time was cutting around the windows (which leaves brush marks if you just leave it like that, but after you brush your cut-in edge, immediately follow up as close as you can with a roller to remove those brush marks). The other half is rolling the paint out vertically, and the 2nd person following up with a brush to "tip" the vertical roller marks and bubbles out horizontally, and that triggers the paint to flatten and level out like magic.

So a good 80 hours in....or 2 weeks worth of my wife and I showing up at our respective jobs to work the same amount. Well, we don't make $10k to $12k worth in 80 hours at work so you get the budget idea here.

As long as you only paint from 60 to 80 degrees out, use a paint measuring cup to mix the 2:1 ratio exactly, and start early in the morning the rest is just up to whatever stamina you may have.

First pic: How it came from factory before stupid Arizona killed it
Second pic: I don't have a shot of it being yellow and cracked, so the pic jumps right to the point after we had sanded it all down
Third pic: 2 primer coats applied
Fourth pic: halfway down with the first coat of color applied
Fifth pic and rest of pics: After 2 coats of final color coat. At 2 or 3 feet looking down the side, some of those slight vertical marks if you look really closely are just the panels themselves being 20 years old, others are slight roller marks.

I must say it was well worth it.. Time will tell to see how it holds up. I'm moving to the Pacific Northwest so it won't have a Phoenix rate of degrading of the finish to report back on, but years out maybe I'll post one. I'm 44 and I can barely move after this project, but it looks like it has been sprayed on.

I can answer any questions anyone may have...for examples yes there were drips (sanded out after first coat, and learning from those mistakes for the second coat), there were parts that had orange peel, (but that all came down to me mixing the paint at 9am, it having a 2 hour pot life, and at 10:45am the paint getting thicker/tackier. But on the second coat of paint, learning from that first coat's mistakes and adding thinner as needed to maintain consistency) but overall just taking your time.











21 REPLIES 21

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Looks great, I have rolled a couple vehicles but didn't put near the amount of work and expense into it as you did. Plain old Rustoleum for me, held up well.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Terrific job!
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

colliehauler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Looks nice and you saved a lot of money.

nehuge
Explorer
Explorer
ScottG wrote:
Yes, sorry - now I seeum!
Nice rig! I like the interior look and configuration a lot.


Yes, the configuration is what sold us on it. L couch, and triple opera windows. All the issues with slides scared us. This configuration feels way roomier than it is.

nehuge
Explorer
Explorer
hotjag1 wrote:
I saw an all white motorhome with no decals or lettering on it when we were in Quartzsite for the RV show. Was it yours? It looked nice.


Haha no, we just finished this.

I can always add decals, or just stay with the clean look, who knows ๐Ÿ™‚

nehuge
Explorer
Explorer
lj2654 wrote:
I know that you put a ton of elbow grease into that job! I sanded my fiberglass roof and repainted it with Dicor roof paint. I also did the side rails, and front upper cap. I did get a couple of quotes do repaint the whole coach, that scared me off. Just what I did about did me in. Congrats on a great job and your rv looks great!


Ya we did the Dicor UV reflective roof paint as well. Seems to have kept temps down.

lj2654
Explorer
Explorer
I know that you put a ton of elbow grease into that job! I sanded my fiberglass roof and repainted it with Dicor roof paint. I also did the side rails, and front upper cap. I did get a couple of quotes do repaint the whole coach, that scared me off. Just what I did about did me in. Congrats on a great job and your rv looks great!
2001 Beaver Contessa Naples 40
2012 Cadillac Srx
retired AirForce 1979-1992

kerrlakeRoo
Explorer
Explorer
The job looks great. The marine paints are durable, but made fora different environment, would be great to hear how they are holding up after a couple thousand miles of driving/sandblasting on the front. Have you considered adding some form of clearcoat for that as protection?

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
It looks good. And it sounds like a lot of work but, it paid off.
The new interior is too dark for me.
Thanks for sharing.

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
Nice job.

I would suggest the 1 part marine enamels for this application (such as Interlux Brightside). We did the topsides on our boat about 12-14yrs ago. Sold it after 4yrs and it looked perfect and shiny with no buffing or waxing, just an occasional wash.

The advantage the 2 part is they are more abrasion resistant...which shouldn't be an issue on an RV. Boats on the other hand are walked on and have fenders constantly rubbing the sides, bump into docks, etc...

The advantage of the 1 part is it's a lot easier to work with and if you do need touch ups, you can keep a spare quart and a sponge brush and 30 seconds to cover a scratch.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

More_To_See
Explorer
Explorer
After trying all the decal removal suggestions for years such as the 3M wheel, heat gun, chemicals, etc I finally settled on a 60 grit pad on an oscillating hand sander to grind most of them off. Then I used acetone on a rag together with a razor blade scraper.

Of course this assumes you are doing a complete repaint job and not just the decal areas because you will be sanding outside the decals too.

I first rolled the roof like you but decided to spray the rest of it due to low humidity drying the paint faster than I could work with rolling and tipping here the past month. I used marine bright white paint on the roof.

I also sprayed where the roof rolls around to the sides plus the front and rear caps.

Cleaning old silicon caulk off the side seams took two days for each side. People always say once silicon is used nothing else will ever again stick there. I suspect they just don't get ALL traces of the old silicon off. Guess I'll know in a year or so.
95 Winnebago Vectra 34 (P30/454)

lawrosa
Explorer
Explorer
Just add the photobucket extension in Chrome , Firefox, IE, etc etc to see all photo bucket pictures...

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embedded-imag/ogipgokcopooepeipngiikdkpmcpkaon
Mike L ... N.J.

2006 Silverado ext cab long bed. 3:42 rear. LM7 5.3 motor. 300 hp 350 ft lbs torgue @ 4000 rpms
2018 coachmen Catalina sbx 261bh

hotjag1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I saw an all white motorhome with no decals or lettering on it when we were in Quartzsite for the RV show. Was it yours? It looked nice.
hotjag1
2003 40' Allegro Bus, 3 slides, 400hp 8.9 liter ISL Cummins

2000 24' Dynamax Isata

MURPHY55347
Explorer
Explorer
All I can say is wow! Awesome job. You are a lot braver than I would be.