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what material would work for this?

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
I want to construct a faux headboard to block off the window above the bed in my RV. (It's not an emergency access window, there is another window near the bed, and this window is annoying.) I'm going to nail or screw the faux headboard to the wall, so that it bridges the window, and blocks it. I'll cover it with some type of fabric, not sure what yet.

I want this to be rigid enough to lean back against. The window is slightly recessed, maybe 1/2", so the headboard needs to be rigid enough to support itself and me when I lean on it (with a pillow, probably.) But I need it to be lightweight enough that I can fasten it to the wall with fairly small/short screws or nails.

The finished size will be about 36" tall and 48" inches wide.

My first thought is 1/2" plywood but I would definitely like to have something lighter. What material would be lighter but yet rigid enough? 1/4" plywood would be light, but I'm not sure it would be rigid enough.

Also, what is the most reliable way to find the wall studs to support this (or anything else)?
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board
29 REPLIES 29

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
So after some more thought, and looking at way too many overly-cute RVs on Pinterest, I decided to use shiplap boards. I'll fill in the window depth with some thin foamboard to prevent condensation. The boards are light enough to hang with multiple Velcro strips so they can be taken down easily. I could also just screw them in but am a little hesitant to do that in an exterior wall.

There are 2 other windows with the ugly brown blinds and valances. I'm taking them down and replacing with normal curtains and rods. The curtains are almost white so will go with the shiplap.

If you are not familiar with shiplap, it's individual boards, thus lightweight and easily removed if needed. Like this: Classic Shiplap
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cummins12V98 wrote:
coolmom42 wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
coolmom42 wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
A picture of the window would help.


It's like every other RV window. Black frame, tinted glass. In this case, wider than tall, approx 2'tall and 3' wide. In the back of the RV.


Ok then cut a 1/2โ€ pc of plywood to the size you like. Remove 4 screws from the frame on four corners. Now layout the screw pattern on the plywood and drill holes so the plywood holes align with the window frame holes. Use same diameter screws but 1/2โ€ longer then attach plywood. Now cover with whatever you want.

Other option is to apply a 1x4 horizontally along top and bottom with a 45 angle on top of each board. Apply two boards to back of plywood to align with the two attached to the window frame so they will drop and lock into each other. This is called a โ€œFrench Cleatโ€.

Add your covering to plywood and simply drop into place.

Paint the back of everything black.


The French cleat is a great option for hanging.

If I were to go the route you suggested, with the French cleat hangers... how do I find a place to screw the 1x4 to the wall? How does one locate wall "studs" in a RV?


Like I mentioned use the existing screw holes in the window frame. You said it was a standard window so I would assume there are screws on the inside that hold it in place???


Got it.
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
coolmom42 wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
coolmom42 wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
A picture of the window would help.


It's like every other RV window. Black frame, tinted glass. In this case, wider than tall, approx 2'tall and 3' wide. In the back of the RV.


Ok then cut a 1/2โ€ pc of plywood to the size you like. Remove 4 screws from the frame on four corners. Now layout the screw pattern on the plywood and drill holes so the plywood holes align with the window frame holes. Use same diameter screws but 1/2โ€ longer then attach plywood. Now cover with whatever you want.

Other option is to apply a 1x4 horizontally along top and bottom with a 45 angle on top of each board. Apply two boards to back of plywood to align with the two attached to the window frame so they will drop and lock into each other. This is called a โ€œFrench Cleatโ€.

Add your covering to plywood and simply drop into place.

Paint the back of everything black.


The French cleat is a great option for hanging.

If I were to go the route you suggested, with the French cleat hangers... how do I find a place to screw the 1x4 to the wall? How does one locate wall "studs" in a RV?


Like I mentioned use the existing screw holes in the window frame. You said it was a standard window so I would assume there are screws on the inside that hold it in place???
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

jjrbus
Explorer
Explorer
coolmom42 wrote:
jkwilson wrote:
Something you need to consider is air circulation. Water will condense on the cold glass during cool weather. If you cover it, you have the potential for mold or water damage. Maybe spacing it off the window a little would be worth looking into.


Very good point.

If I use foamboard, as someone suggested, just pressed into the window, that would both block a lot of heat/cold, and prevent condensation.


I paint the foam board facing the outside, seems to hold up well,mine does not condense, no idea why not?? Most modern RV have very little stud in the wall!!

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cummins12V98 wrote:
coolmom42 wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
A picture of the window would help.


It's like every other RV window. Black frame, tinted glass. In this case, wider than tall, approx 2'tall and 3' wide. In the back of the RV.


Ok then cut a 1/2โ€ pc of plywood to the size you like. Remove 4 screws from the frame on four corners. Now layout the screw pattern on the plywood and drill holes so the plywood holes align with the window frame holes. Use same diameter screws but 1/2โ€ longer then attach plywood. Now cover with whatever you want.

Other option is to apply a 1x4 horizontally along top and bottom with a 45 angle on top of each board. Apply two boards to back of plywood to align with the two attached to the window frame so they will drop and lock into each other. This is called a โ€œFrench Cleatโ€.

Add your covering to plywood and simply drop into place.

Paint the back of everything black.


The French cleat is a great option for hanging.

If I were to go the route you suggested, with the French cleat hangers... how do I find a place to screw the 1x4 to the wall? How does one locate wall "studs" in a RV?
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
coolmom42 wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
A picture of the window would help.


It's like every other RV window. Black frame, tinted glass. In this case, wider than tall, approx 2'tall and 3' wide. In the back of the RV.


Ok then cut a 1/2โ€ pc of plywood to the size you like. Remove 4 screws from the frame on four corners. Now layout the screw pattern on the plywood and drill holes so the plywood holes align with the window frame holes. Use same diameter screws but 1/2โ€ longer then attach plywood. Now cover with whatever you want.

Other option is to apply a 1x4 horizontally along top and bottom with a 45 angle on top of each board. Apply two boards to back of plywood to align with the two attached to the window frame so they will drop and lock into each other. This is called a โ€œFrench Cleatโ€.

Add your covering to plywood and simply drop into place.

Paint the back of everything black.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cummins12V98 wrote:
A picture of the window would help.


It's like every other RV window. Black frame, tinted glass. In this case, wider than tall, approx 2'tall and 3' wide. In the back of the RV.
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
A picture of the window would help.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
wopachop wrote:
Could eliminate several of those steps. No need for UV spray paint or double sided tape. I have 1" foam board in most of my windows. Never comes loose. If you have access to a jigsaw the foam cuts really nice. 


That's good to know. Do you just have it stuck inside the window frame?

I did read something on the manufacturer's web site that said the foam board would eventually deteriorate with UV exposure. But, that could be CYA jargon, too. How long have you had yours in place?

Did you use foam board with a facing layer?
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Could eliminate several of those steps. No need for UV spray paint or double sided tape. I have 1" foam board in most of my windows. Never comes loose. If you have access to a jigsaw the foam cuts really nice. 

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
IAMICHABOD wrote:
I was thinking of the same project,my idea was to get a piece of R Tech,cutting it to fit in the window.Just pop it in,it is light weight and stiff enough,and insulated,I have used it in other projects. You could cover it with fabric if you wanted.


One thing I would like to do is cover up the ugly black window surround.

After noodling around with some of the suggestions, and the idea of foam board, this is what I came up with.

I can make a template the exact shape of the window. Cut a couple of layers of the craft-thickness foam board so they fit exactly. Spray paint or cover the backside for UV protection. Adhere to the window with some double sided tape. That will fill in the window recess so there's no flex in the headboard.

Then cut the larger headboard out of a larger sheet of thicker craft foam (not sure if it's big enough) or go with the thin foam board that you linked to.

I just really dislike that window. Too bright, too cold/hot, and the whole shade valance thing is beyond annoying.
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
I was thinking of the same project,my idea was to get a piece of R Tech,cutting it to fit in the window.Just pop it in,it is light weight and stiff enough,and insulated,I have used it in other projects. You could cover it with fabric if you wanted.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Headboard to me is something you can bang your head against and not have it cause pain.......


Well there are different kinds. But that window and bumping into it are definitely a PITA.
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
jkwilson wrote:
Something you need to consider is air circulation. Water will condense on the cold glass during cool weather. If you cover it, you have the potential for mold or water damage. Maybe spacing it off the window a little would be worth looking into.


Very good point.

If I use foamboard, as someone suggested, just pressed into the window, that would both block a lot of heat/cold, and prevent condensation.
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board