30 amp for duel AC

[Carol_N]

Considering buying a Big Horn with dual AC system, will it run in 30 amp services?

[Lantley]

Attached below is a flyer from RVsafepower. They clearly advertise that it works on GFI circuits. I am here to verify it works on GFI circuits!

[jaycocamprs]

Lantley wrote:

enblethen wrote:
Device looks very similar to Progressive Dynamics cheater box. It specifically says no GFCI and receptacles must be on separate circuits.
Cheater box

It is nothing like a cheater box. This unit is hardwired into the RV. Two different animals.

So it is a transfer switch that transfers just 1 AC unit off the main trailer power over to the dedicated 20-amp circuit. And by transferring both hot and neutral, the load thru the GFCI is the same on both hot and neutral

[1Wheeldrive]

It will also depend on the size of the AC units on the trailer. You did not mention the cooling capacities of the units. On my trailer, I have two AC units, one is 15,000 btus, and the other is 13,500 btus. I can and have run both units at the same time on 30 amp service. If both units were 15,000 btus, I suspect they both might not run at the same time.

[avvidclif1]

I just have one question. If the wire going to the campground pedestal is sized for 30A service how are you going to get 50A? A lot of pedestals use wire to the pedestal that can support 30A service OR 20A service but not both at the same time. Sneaky trick used to save money on wire when setting up a campground.

[enblethen]

I would need to see exactly how the interior is wired.

[Lantley]

enblethen wrote:
Device looks very similar to Progressive Dynamics cheater box. It specifically says no GFCI and receptacles must be on separate circuits.
Cheater box

It is nothing like a cheater box. This unit is hardwired into the RV. Two different animals.
What I find interesting is you guys are making the same mistake I almost made. I was too quick to dismiss the switch as a cheater box or some other gadget that would not work on GFCI etc.
I saw it as some Rube Goldberg gimmick that would trip breakers or work sometimes and not others. Just like you guys are thinking I was wrong.
At some point I cleared my mind and actually listened!
Once I paid attention to what the maker of the device was actually saying vs. thinking I knew what he was going to say. I realized that if his device really worked as advertised it would be a real game changer.
As it turned out I was the guinea pig a bought the device.
the device works as advertised. Essentially it allows you to run your 2nd AC off of the 20 amp circuit at the pedestal. The device works on GFI circuits and non GFI circuits.
I used the device at MB state park this summer in 100 degree heat and it worked like a champ on a GFI circuit.
Simply plug in 30 amp cord as normal and then plug 2nd dedicated 20 amp cord into pedestal flip switch to pedestal mode and your set.
All circuits are UL approved and breaker protected.
This is not your grandfather's cheater box!
Last year I booked very few 30 amps sites. I avoided them like the plague because I need both AC's blowing to keep unit cool in the mid Atlantic heat and humidity. This meant I avoided lots of state parks and older places with only 30 amp service. This upcoming year will be different. I no longer have to fear 30 amp sites. I plan to put a few of my old destinations back on the itinerary now that I have the 30 amp solution!
All I can say to you doubting Thomas's is that it works! Yes even on GFI circuits

[enblethen]

Device looks very similar to Progressive Dynamics cheater box. It specifically says no GFCI and receptacles must be on separate circuits.
Cheater box

[Lantley]

avvidclif1 wrote:
I see nothing there that states it will work with GFCI and the layout doesn't either. Besides it's just a switch to select using an extension cord to run the second AC or to use the 50a service. Those are available for less than $30 rated to carry 20a.

It is a manual transfer switch but it is more than that.
There are circuits in the box that allow the unit to work with GFI circuits. I have used the unit on GFI outlets and nothing tripped.
If you click the link I posted prior the diagram specifically show the switch being used with GFI outlets. The unit is UL listed which means there are lots of standard that had to be met working on GFI outlets is one of them. Trust me it works.
The developer of the box is a member of the Open Range forum.
He introduced me to his contraption. I am here to say it works well especially on GFI outlets. It is a real game changer.
The avg.RV can pull into 95 per cent of 30 amp sites (those with an additional 20 amp outlet) and run both ACs without issue.
Anyone truly interested can PM me and I will put you in touch with the developer who can confirm how and why the device works on GFI circuits.

[avvidclif1]

I see nothing there that states it will work with GFCI and the layout doesn't either. Besides it's just a switch to select using an extension cord to run the second AC or to use the 50a service. Those are available for less than $30 rated to carry 20a.

[enblethen]

The neutrals fed by the 30 amp and 15/20 amp will be tied together or should be in the box. The GFCI will see this and trip.

[Lantley]

Coach-man wrote:

Lantley wrote:

Grady23 wrote:
Anyone ever install a separate circuit on a remote breaker box for a 110 service? This was a recommendation from a mechanic working at a well known camping center. Then the bedroom A/C would be on its own 110 circuit and plugged in to the 30 Amp for the main 5th and a sep heavy duty extention on the post

This ^^^^ is a very viable idea.
THe gadget below is designed to do just that it will allow you to run both AC's on a 30 amp site


Check it out

I have an RV SafePower Switch. It allows me to run both AC's on a 30 amp site. Work like a champ

The problem with that, is most 20 amp outlets are GFCI, which will immediately blow if you try and connect that box!

Not true the box is specifically designed to work on GFCI outlets

See Here

[Walaby]

westernrvparkowner wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

Mandalay Parr wrote:
I can run both of mine on 30. They draw about 27-28 total. One is a 15 and the other 13.5.

Keep in mind a 30amp is really only rated for 25amps continuous. Drawing continuous 27-28 amps is a good way to burn out equipment. If you are lucky it just trips the circuit breaker.

You may or may not be able to get both units going but it's really a not a good idea.

Huh? What gets damaged drawing 27 amps? A breaker only has two positions, on or off. If it is on, the power being delivered will be 120 volts +/- 5 percent per NEC. If it is tripped to off, the power being delivered will be zero volts +/- an infinite percent (zero times anything is still zero). Where things get damaged is when voltage fluctuates high or low. The only possible damage would be if something gets harmed by the power suddenly cutting out due to a breaker tripping. Almost all appliances are built with that potential in mind so they aren't going to be damaged. The biggest threat would be if something got harmed because the appliance stopped working. Pets might overheat if the AC quits and the Chicken Fried Steak is going to be mighty greasy should the electric frying pan cut out in mid fry, but the skillet and the AC unit will almost assuredly continue to work once power is restored.

I agree.. Only thing I can figure is valhalla is assuming an 80 percent of total for safety margin. From what I just read online, this is probably how he comes up with his rationale.

The 1996 NEC recognizes that overcurrent protective devices will be affected by heat in the system. As such, it defines the concept of continuous loads and the 80% rule to try and offset the effects of heat in the system when sizing a CB.

A CB either carries a standard rating (80 percent) or a 100 percent rating. CBs that are 100%-rated are permitted to be loaded continuously at their full rating as long as the assembly is listed and conductors are properly connected.

But, I assume that if the CB was incapable of sustaining 100 percent, then it would trip. So, if one was using 27 amps continuously, and it was incapable of keeping up with that, it trips, and then you go to zero. Not sure where the equipment damage comes into play. You are still going to draw 27 amps, even if the CB is rated for 80 percent continuous. It's not like the CB is a smart system and can throttle the output.

Mike

[westernrvparkow]

valhalla360 wrote:

Mandalay Parr wrote:
I can run both of mine on 30. They draw about 27-28 total. One is a 15 and the other 13.5.

Keep in mind a 30amp is really only rated for 25amps continuous. Drawing continuous 27-28 amps is a good way to burn out equipment. If you are lucky it just trips the circuit breaker.

You may or may not be able to get both units going but it's really a not a good idea.

Huh? What gets damaged drawing 27 amps? A breaker only has two positions, on or off. If it is on, the power being delivered will be 120 volts +/- 5 percent per NEC. If it is tripped to off, the power being delivered will be zero volts +/- an infinite percent (zero times anything is still zero). Where things get damaged is when voltage fluctuates high or low. The only possible damage would be if something gets harmed by the power suddenly cutting out due to a breaker tripping. Almost all appliances are built with that potential in mind so they aren't going to be damaged. The biggest threat would be if something got harmed because the appliance stopped working. Pets might overheat if the AC quits and the Chicken Fried Steak is going to be mighty greasy should the electric frying pan cut out in mid fry, but the skillet and the AC unit will almost assuredly continue to work once power is restored.

[Allworth]

OP??

OP??

You people are talking to yourselves. The OP went missing.

[Coach-man]

Lantley wrote:

Grady23 wrote:
Anyone ever install a separate circuit on a remote breaker box for a 110 service? This was a recommendation from a mechanic working at a well known camping center. Then the bedroom A/C would be on its own 110 circuit and plugged in to the 30 Amp for the main 5th and a sep heavy duty extention on the post

This ^^^^ is a very viable idea.
THe gadget below is designed to do just that it will allow you to run both AC's on a 30 amp site


Check it out

I have an RV SafePower Switch. It allows me to run both AC's on a 30 amp site. Work like a champ

The problem with that, is most 20 amp outlets are GFCI, which will immediately blow if you try and connect that box!